Good luck on your project Kliff. I hope you have better luck finding time to work on yours! I’m hoping to bring mine up to the WCHA Assembly, but time is ticking away.
Bob
Bob
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Confucius: "There is no tapestry if no one makes thread." Thank you, thread makers! 🧵
Peterborough Litelift restoration
- Thread starter Cheeseandbeans
- Start date
My dilemma is the canoe is currently 300 miles away, at my "place up north". I have a wood shop there, but have done all of my canoe building down here. Do I transport the canoe back, or take canoe specific tools up, and work on it there? Really hard to work on much when I'm looking at a lake all day.
On the other hand, I don't want to rely on the tie down rings to secure the canoe to the truck until the decks have been repaired (replaced). I'll probably strap it down to a trailer and bring it back.....
On the other hand, I don't want to rely on the tie down rings to secure the canoe to the truck until the decks have been repaired (replaced). I'll probably strap it down to a trailer and bring it back.....
I finally got this project back into my tiny shop. I removed the shear planks on one side and the rib end damage is further down than I anticipated on some, but still better than replacing full ribs. A couple cant ribs will need replaced also.
At some point, the shear planking was replaced and I’m not sure if the replacements are cedar. Was the planking originally western red cedar on these? I would assume so, but double checking with those more knowledgeable.
I am looking forward to getting back at this. It is my favorite time of year for these projects.
Bob
At some point, the shear planking was replaced and I’m not sure if the replacements are cedar. Was the planking originally western red cedar on these? I would assume so, but double checking with those more knowledgeable.
I am looking forward to getting back at this. It is my favorite time of year for these projects.
Bob
The Litelift with model number 1449 is listed on page ten of the 1956 catalog at the link below. Page one describes the construction saying simply "the thin cedar planking" so it could be either. My guess is that it probably would have been red cedar like most of the other major builders in that era. It can be very difficult to distinguish the difference between red and white cedar on old planking. Good luck,
Benson
Peterborough Canoe Company 1956 | Wooden Canoe Museum
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A bit more work today. Both stem ends needed replaced and I made some reference marks with measurements to find my new rib tops and inwale locations when they are replaced.
Bob
Bob
Yes! I was just thinking of you the other day and wondering if the Litelift restoration was underway.
Do you have a method in mind for the rib tip replacements? I made a jig for my portable table saw to taper cut the ends of many replacements. I had to make about 40 for my Bobs Special restoration. Tapered the end then cut off square 6" to 10" as necessary. Then belt sanded the ribs at an angle to match until the tip replacement stood up in the correct orientation. Just keep those fingers out of the way!
Do you have a method in mind for the rib tip replacements? I made a jig for my portable table saw to taper cut the ends of many replacements. I had to make about 40 for my Bobs Special restoration. Tapered the end then cut off square 6" to 10" as necessary. Then belt sanded the ribs at an angle to match until the tip replacement stood up in the correct orientation. Just keep those fingers out of the way!
I use a belt sander to scarf the rib ends as well. I have seen folks use a chisel with success, but I don’t think I could get a steep enough angle safely.
I will plane the tapers by hand. I enjoy hand tools when practical.
What is your preferred glue for rib ends?
Bob
I will plane the tapers by hand. I enjoy hand tools when practical.
What is your preferred glue for rib ends?
Bob
Hi Bob, I used Titebond III. Plenty of 'open' time to allow for adjustments and clamping. It's a waterproof glue. I bought Gflex epoxy but never used it as I have no experience with epoxies!
Good to hear. I used Titebond 3 on my 50 Pounder with no issues, but I know the usual is thickened epoxy. Much easier to not worry about the epoxy kicking too soon and either wasting some or noticing an alignment issue too late. I hope to get back after it this weekend.
Bob
Bob
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