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Oil for wood gunwales?

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Moldy gunnels.
Gunnels that are not sealed with epoxy, between the hull and the gunnels, mold and rot.

​ I glue my gunnels to my hulls. That is the strongest, and most rot resistant thing, that I have found.
​ Gunnels that are merely screwed to a hull, invite a early end !

Jim
 
Moldy gunnels.
Gunnels that are not sealed with epoxy, between the hull and the gunnels, mold and rot.

​ I glue my gunnels to my hulls. That is the strongest, and most rot resistant thing, that I have found.
​ Gunnels that are merely screwed to a hull, invite a early end !

Jim

Jim, like I said location make a difference for sure, In my case I have gunnels that are quite old and never had a problem yet and all my boats sleeps outside all year around!! I thin my caption is 1989 or something like that and still as its original gunnels!

Definitely have to seal the back side of the gunnels on all new installation!!
 
Jim, like I said location make a difference for sure, In my case I have gunnels that are quite old and never had a problem yet and all my boats sleeps outside all year around!! I thin my caption is 1989 or something like that and still as its original gunnels!

Definitely have to seal the back side of the gunnels on all new installation!!

​ Agreed !
I live in Iowa, the land of high humidity.
This last Summer I replaced gunnels on a stripper from Minnesota. They were soo rotten they crumbed in my hands as I removed them. The owner did not store the canoe properly. Had the builder glued the gunnels on I believe they would have been in better shape, but still they are wood !.

​ If you can't properly care for a canoe, buy aluminum !!!

Jim
 
boiled linseed oil and turps...i put that 'stuff' on everything...sometimes a pinch of pine-tar too...
 
I'm going to experiment with mineral spirits and tung oil on a piece of left over wood from the Rob Roy rebuild. I'm using those two ingredients because I have them on hand and don't want to varnish the new gunwales. In the past I've only used straight tung oil. What ratio would be good for using tung and spirits be?

dougd
 
boiled linseed oil and turps...i put that 'stuff' on everything...sometimes a pinch of pine-tar too...

This thread got me curious about the status of my oil mix can of 1/3 spar varnish, 1/3 turpentine and 1/3 boiled linseed oil. I have not popped the lid on that can in several years, and the last time I opened it I dropped in a solidified hockey puck of spar varnish, which has been slowly dissolving in the turp and linseed oil, was now nearly dissolved.

That mix was stored in a clean, virgin 1quart can, so the top sealed well. Filled almost to the top, so there was little head space remaining.

The once hockey puck of varnish is almost completely dissolved, and the mix could probably use more thinner/solvent for the initial applications. It doesn’t smell nearly as turpentiney as the initial mix. I bet if I shook it up that varnish puck occasionally it would dissolve completely.

I recall folks mentioned their preference for using “fresh” oil mxes. Does it really matter? That can of mix showed no sign of separation or degradation. It looks and smells like the last time I added to it, albeit more varnishy.

BTW, clean rimmed “paint” cans that seal well are a shop godsend. I can find empty virgin quart paint cans at the hardware store, but not anything in smaller cans.

Empty half-pint stain cans (cleaned out) are a boon for storing small amounts of shop fluids with restricted head space. Do not throw those puppies in the trash; solvent rinse them and store them for future use. When you get down to the last 8oz of varnish or paint just decant it into a smaller sealed receptacle for headspace free longevity.
 
Good trick Mike! But I seldom used anything smaller than quart cans, with the exception of Plastic Wood putty. The kind that the lid is on the bottom, and contains acetone. They may hold 4 oz, not enough to really do anything. Pint cans would be nice. I'll keep a mindful eye out !
Thanks

​Jim
 
i generally thin my oil 2:1 to 3:1 with turps. Makes for more, thinner coats. But penetrates well. is a great mid-season over-wipe for varnish scratches too...keeps water from getting in and stuff on paddle tips and so on
 
Good trick Mike! But I seldom used anything smaller than quart cans, with the exception of Plastic Wood putty. The kind that the lid is on the bottom, and contains acetone. They may hold 4 oz, not enough to really do anything. Pint cans would be nice. I'll keep a mindful eye out !

Jim, my local country hardware sells new quart cans, but I have never found anything smaller in a retail store (on-line, yes).

The half pint stain cans are kinda useless except for tiny amounts, so any time I empty a pint can with a still sealable unmangled and uncrusty lid I clean out and save those.

A lot of my shop work needs but small amounts of varnish or paint, so going from 32 oz to 16 to 8 if needed helps reduce the headspace and better preserves the remainder.

And I am often unkind to paint can lids and rims, so by the time a quart is half finished the lid seal is often a mess. Which is a whole nother topic, Opening, Sealing and Storing cans.
 
I've been dubbing around with Tung Oil and Mineral Spirits on some of the leftover poplar from the rebuild of the Rob Roy. For a few nights this week I've added some MS to the tung oil and slathered it on the sample wood. My hope is that MS will aid in getting the oil into the wood. Tonight I thought why the heck am I wasting materials on samples, let's just go for it on the ash thwart. I thinned out the oil quite a bit and using a foam brush did a thin layer on the gunwale. Now I guess ash is different then poplar as it drank the mix in but also got a warmer color to it. In an hour or two I'll gently rub it, flip it and do the other side.

Tomorrow I'll repeat but using less Mineral Spirits. I'll keep up that pattern for another layer until I'm doing just Tung Oil. heck, I have know idea of this is the right way to go but I'm trying it out. Like so many other projects...by the seat of my pants!

dougd
 
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