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Newbie questions

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Hi all, I'm Jeff and I just got a new to me used canoe. I wanted to spruce it up a bit and make modifications to it but wanted to make sure I do it the right way. First of all the previous owner thought it was a Coleman but couldn't remember for sure. So I'd like to try and ID it first off.
 

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As you can see in the previous photo (sorry for multiple posts but upload size is limited) it seems to be missing a couple of thwarts. So I wanted to get some new thwarts and maybe a yoke but more importantly I wanted to know the proper way to mount them. I'm guessing I'd have to remove the rubber cap off of the canoe(gunwale?) or am I supposed to drill down through the cap and "hang" the thwarts on that way ?(I hope that makes sense, still learning terminology, etc)

Secondly in the next picture you can see where a battery tray was added and it sits on top of a hollow bulkhead(?) I would like to cut that open and make a cavity for the battery to sit in. One for lower center of gravity and two just a cleaner appearance. Common sense is telling me that its a hollow area for buoyancy ? If that is correct can I get some foam panels to mold into a battery tray to replace it ?

At this point I'm just a weekend hobbyist, I know having a squareback with a trolling motor is probably blasphemy but oh well :)

For background on my ability to build stuff I retired from auto mechanics and then simultaneously became an Airframe and Powerplant mechanic and Pilot. The aerospace side of me is asking all the super technical questions and the auto mechanic side of me just wants tear into it and figure it out on the go....

I had more pictures and questions but my internet is bugging out, I'll check it with more questions later.
 

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Hi Jeff, welcome aboard.

If there are thwarts missing you should see some evidence where they would have been. You might just need a yoke. If there is no evidence that there has been one, it would be important to find the center point and I mean not by length but by weight. You could get an ash yoke from one of the online retailers or make your own. The same goes for yoke pads if desired.
 
You've got a little gem there! It's not a coleman, looks to be made out of fiberglass. What are the specs on it? Length, width at center? How much do you think it weighs?

Depending on length, you might only need to put your carrying thwart in it, looks like the seats are rigid enough to act as supports.

Now to the nitty gritty....that canoe is going to paddle like a pig, but if you decide to upgrade, never, ever sell it. Square sterns are like gold, especially if you hunt and fish. I had a nineteen foot square stern, paddled it for a year, managed all right, but then got a little 1.5 horsepower and went everywhere in that thing. Really regret selling it.

Looks to be in pretty good shape, have fun!
 
Hello all.

It is fiberglass, 38" at the widest and just under 16' long. There is some rusty hardware where I suspect the thwarts were. I cannot find any kind of serial number anywhere.

It does look to be in decent shape though the workmanship is cruddy. I will show that in future pictures. Without the thwarts if flexes pretty good and you can see where it caused problems with the seat hardware.
 
As was said, definitely not a Coleman. That looks like a "chopper gun" fiberglass hull. It looks to me as if there are already 2 pairs of holes in the gunwales where thwarts were mounted, one pair amidships and another between those and the stern seat. If there is enough of a lip underneath the inwales there should be no problem mounting a new thwart and yoke using the same gunwale holes. You can get wooden thwarts from either Essex Industries or Ed's Canoe:

http://www.essexindustries.org/canoe-yokes-thwarts/?sort=alphaasc

http://www.edscanoe.com/caco.html

Just make sure you get components wide enough for the boat. Trim the yoke and/or thwart to proper length. Seal the exposed end grain with either oil, varnish, polyurethane, or epoxy. Drill appropriate sized holes (and seal that exposed grain) to accommodate #10 stainless steel machine screws. Either 24 or 32 tpi will work fine with the appropriate stainless steel nuts.

Yes you could cut open the flotation tank but you would need to fill most of it with foam afterwards. Make sure to use a closed cell foam that does not absorb water. Be aware that the volume occupied by the battery will not only not be buoyant, but the battery would add additional heavier-than-water weight. My guess is that the boat would still have positive buoyancy so long as the battery is not too large.
 
That is a handy looking boat. I once had a 15.5 foot Scott frieghter that ended up being my second car on the rez. Paddled it everywhere.

There is not too much you can do to hurt that one so go ahead and gear up as you figure. Just remember though, if you put $1000 into a $500 boat, you still have a $500 boat eh. Dont go crazy.

Christy
 
Looks like a good score there. We usually mounted the batteries in the bow. It helped out with trim, especially if you're out fishing alone. Of course, that means acquiring 16' of heavy duty battery cable...

Jason
 
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Hey all, got it on the water yesterday. Got a crappy schedule this month, so I just stuck a couple of 1*2 in for temporary thwarts. Paddled easy, hauled butt with the 40 pound thrust motor and I guess it's so ugly all the Gators would run and hide when I tried to sneak up and get a picture lol
 

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Anyhow, got paint gun, paint, fiberglass, foam, etc, etc to get her all fixed up when I get a chance.

I'm having trouble locating gunwales though ? Where can I get those at? It has the plastic(?) ones on it now.

Also, the triangular piece in the picture - what are those called and where can I get new one ? (plus you can see all the wood screws and cruddy previous construction I was talking about)

Thanks for all the help, hopefully some construction pictures soon.
 

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