I've been thinking about your sheath; although the two commercial sheaths that Glenn suggests above look to be a little flimsy, the sheath that comes on the axe he decided to buy doesn't look too bad. If that sheath would fit your axe it might work for you
If you were doing just the one sheath it might be better than spending a bunch of money at Tandy Leather.
Rob, a rare window of rationality opened, and I reconsidered my leather working urges.
I don’t need a sheath for the 100 year old Michigan double bit. I refurbished that one more as a presentation piece than as a working axe. I know the pale wood wall where it will be displayed, hence the dark stained and varnished handle.
It would be fun to have a sheath for the 1917 Bolo, but I don’t really see myself carrying that knife around.
The Boy’s axe of unknown provenance does need a sheath, as I likely will take it on an axe appropriate trip, if only to see what I think. So I read through your sheath making post again, which btw has nearly 6000 views (a Canoe Tripping record?)
I’d need the leather, the tool to neatly round off the edges, the little wheel tool to mark the stitching holes, a kitty litter bucket (clever) fill with concrete and a horse, linen thread (and mucho patience) and a trip across a metro sprawl to the nearest Tandy Leather. That last part alone dissuaded me.
All to sheath an axe I may bring on a trip once.
I bought the small Council Tool sheath Glenn linked to. I agree, it does look flimsy. $21 with shipping. No way I am keeping track of the time, but I could start keeping track of the materials ca-ching.
A half dozen RO sanding disks and assorted sandpapers.
New sheath
And a new handle.
I got the truck up the driveway for the first time in a week and my almost-local independent hardware store had a couple of Link Boys Axe handles in stock. I selected the best of them in grain orientation. Labled “LK-116-08 handle - 28 inch handle, single bit, Boys Axe” - 71cm manche hache, Garcons” …. Oh la la!.
Essentially this one, with a wax finish. $12.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=069-001E-00012
And a metal wedge. (19 cents). I am undecided about using that to augment the hardwood wedge that came with the Link handle. And about how far up past the eye to trim off the head.
But none of that is happening for a while. I need to carefully file and shape the end of the handle to fit the eye first. Would you like fries with that?
I do appreciate the sheath improvement suggestions:
. It might be upgraded with a bent "V" of copper sheet to sandwich around the cutting edge.
I'd drill out the three rivets in front of the sharp, cut the stitching, insert the copper V and hold it in place with the three replaced rivets and add two more between the three. I think that mod would make it a bunch safer. For replacement rivets I'd get those big copper ones from the hardware store.
That type of functional retrofitting and re-riveting is more my style, and more within my existing skills range. If I find the simplistic (and perhaps rustable?) belt buckle strap not to my liking I could probably adapt that closure. That Council Tools sheath should fit just fine, and if I find a better cover solution for the Boys axe I might be able to retrofit that one to fit a hatchet.
I do have a couple of old hatchets around. Ummm, let’s go see. Nah, they are all junk except the Fiskars in the truck. I guess I will have to keep an eye out at yard sales and flea markets after all.
(just kidd'n)
