Lower canyons of the Rio Grande

[Alan Gage]

I'm also open to going elsewhere in the southern US that may be suitable for paddling in winter. Smaller, more intimate streams are preferred as I don't want to be dodging powerboats/jet ski traffic if I can avoid it.

I've always thought the lower canyons of the Rio Grande looked interesting. It looks like a beautiful area and is quite remote with not much traffic. I think the drive to the pickup at the end is pretty long and rough so I don't know how friendly it is to run your own shuttle. If I ever do it I'd be tempted to just turn around and paddle back to the car.

Alan

 

[Nick Pending]

I've always thought the lower canyons of the Rio Grande looked interesting. It looks like a beautiful area and is quite remote with not much traffic. I think the drive to the pickup at the end is pretty long and rough so I don't know how friendly it is to run your own shuttle. If I ever do it I'd be tempted to just turn around and paddle back to the car.

Alan

Alan (and duNord),

The Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande are very beautiful and interesting, very remote. So remote that there is very little invasion of illegals across it to gain entry from Mexico to the USA. Illegals do cross there, just not very often. It is definitely a whitewater trip, though at low waterlevels the run can be done by river runners with little experience who are careful and line or portage the many class 2 to 4 rapids. This would be much more difficult at higher water levels. The river drops between 400 and 450 feet in the 84 miles between Heath Canyon launch and Dryden take out, which means only about 5 feet per mile average gradient, and some sections within the run are steeper than that. There are many rapids that have to be negotiated, some quite tough. Not saying it can't be done, but few would try to do the run then turn around and paddle back upstream. It would take a looooong time.

My wife and I did a low water trip in late Feb-early Mar of 2019, and I think the flow was about 250 cfs at the put in. It was higher at the takeout, but I don't remember what now, maybe 600 cfs? I could look it up, but it doesn't matter. It can be done at low water. More fun with more in it, I'm sure, but I'll not get the chance to test that supposition. Others say it is. At the low level we ran, several of the rapids didn't have enough space between rocks that we could run given drops, so we carried a couple (meaning emptied the boat), lined others with some dragging involved, and scraped down some others. The river cane is often a real barrier, adding essentially dangers similar to log-type sweepers.

Water quality is an issue from upstream contamination (agricultural runoff?) so runners need to carry drinking water. It doesn't have to be done for a whole trip as lots of springs come in, many directly into the river and can't be seen. This starts above the putin and likely goes pretty much all the way down. There are only a few I'd be willing to take water from, though others might not be as fussy. You'll want info on where recommended places are located. The springs are all warm water, but are okay for drinking. The NPS recommends filtering, and I'd agree if you're getting water near where human activity is evident. We got water at a couple places right where it bubbles out of the ground and didn't bother filtering, no problems at all. If in doubt, purify. Again, the water is warm, often above 100 degrees, so you'll usually want to let it cool before drinking. There are severa hot pools that can be soaked in.

 

[Alan Gage]

The river drops between 400 and 450 feet in the 84 miles between Heath Canyon launch and Dryden take out, which means only about 5 feet per mile average gradient, and some sections within the run are steeper than that. There are many rapids that have to be negotiated, some quite tough. Not saying it can't be done, but few would try to do the run then turn around and paddle back upstream. It would take a looooong time.

That's good info. With so many rapids is it more of a pool and drop type of river with fairly slack current between the rapids or does it maintain a steady flow throughout? It's definitely steeper than other rivers I've ascended.

I hope to get the opportunity to try it someday, maybe just downstream.

Alan

 

[Nick Pending]

That's good info. With so many rapids is it more of a pool and drop type of river with fairly slack current between the rapids or does it maintain a steady flow throughout? It's definitely steeper than other rivers I've ascended.

I hope to get the opportunity to try it someday, maybe just downstream.

Alan

It's more of a pool drop, but the pools aren't pools, there's usually current because at low levels the water is usually pretty shallow. Not always, but usually. Overusing that word? If you do end up planning on going upstream, take a pole with you (and maybe a spare?) and practice with it before you go if you haven't done much as you'll be doing a lot of it. The water is shallow at low flows, usually a narrow riverbed, and that means current. If the levels are up, it'll be deeper of course, but the current stronger too. Just the way rivers work. I'd plan on going downstream only.

A good guidebook is "The Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande" by Louis F. Aulbach and Joe Butler, which I got from the Big Bend Natural History Association at:

The Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande (Aulbach) [9781507845462] - $19.95 : Big Bend Natural History Association

Big Bend Natural History Association The Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande (Aulbach) [9781507845462] - By Louis F. Aulbach and Joe Butler. Covers the spectacular 83-mile run from La Linda to Dryden Crossing-- the famed "Lower Canyons." This is a very in-depth study of the wildest section of the...

bigbendbookstore.org

for $19.95, likely plus shipping.
There are also companion volumes for the river sections above the Lower Canyons, the Great Unknown and the Upper Canyons.
Note that they are all sold out right now. Maybe that means there's a new printing or update coming. I'd see if you can find any place that sells copies. Probably used on Amazon if nothing else. I didn't check. Someone might have a stock of new ones still? I don't know how long they've been unavailable. If they're out of print and do come back, it could be at a higher price? By the way, these are paper and not waterproof.

A maybe better map in that it's waterproof but not anywhere near the info is "River Guide to the Rio Grande: The Lower Canyons" by the Natural History Association and available from them at:

River Guide to the Rio Grande: The Lower Canyons [9780912001364] - $21.95 : Big Bend Natural History Association

Big Bend Natural History Association River Guide to the Rio Grande: The Lower Canyons [9780912001364] - The Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande run 83 miles from the put-in at Heath Canyon Ranch to the take-out at Dryden Crossing. This week-long trip is more remote and challenging than the other...

bigbendbookstore.org

for $21.95, likely plus shipping. Again companion volumes available for the sections upstream, or at least some of them.

This Lower Canyons run is a lot like the Green and Colorado, but way less traffic. The sections upstream might be busier. We saw one other group of seven guys from Beaumont, TX on the run, plus one bank fisherman not far below the put in. I'd have done the Lower Canyons more if I didn't live 2000 miles away from it. Moab is only 1000 miles. We contracted with Desert Sports in Terlingua for a shuttle and boat rental. There might be cheaper alternatives to both. I've only done the one trip there, first trip to Big Bend. On our 10-day run, we had two nights it froze on us and a couple days where the thermometer hit over 100 F.

 

[Pseudonym]

That's great intel, @Nick Pending. A multi day trip that's relatively remote and imminently manageable due to a known outfitter in the area. What time of year is recommended for the Rio Grande?

 

[Nick Pending]

That's great intel, @Nick Pending. A multi day trip that's relatively remote and imminently manageable due to a known outfitter in the area. What time of year is recommended for the Rio Grande?

Let me do a little bit of research and get back to you. Don't take me or my info as gospel as I've done one (that's 1) trip on the river and section, by which I mean you can't draw a curve from a single data point. The river's flows fluctuate wildly and conditionis can change quickly (like most rivers?). Potential river runners need to do their own extensive research. There are lots of other outfitters in the area, several of which rent gear and do shuttles, or there were in 2019. Talking to some of them might be advised. I can vouch for Mike at Desert Sports and his knowledge of the river. Others outfitter operators may be just as good. That one data point curve again. There are several other river sections above here, including the famous Santa Elena Canyon, which is I think about 120 miles above the Lower Canyons launch point. It's a much shorter and busier run, and at certain times of the year can be bone dry. I mean you walk down the center of the main channel carrying your boat and the soles of your feet are dry. There's always some water in the Lower Canyons, but it may not always be enough to run on. I don't know season or if one can be reliably predicted for either section. Local outfitters would be more knowledgeable.

 

[Alan Gage]

A few years back Dan Cooke and company were running guided trips down the lower canyons. They did it for 2-3 years, during the winter, if I remember right. I remember seeing posts but don't remember if it was on Facebook, a canoe forum, or somewhere else. Some of that info might still be floating around out there.

EDIT to add some info:

I have not listened to this interview but it probably has some good info from Rob Kesselring and Sue Plankis, who, I believe, were doing the trips with Dan Cooke: https://paddlingadventuresradio.com...sselring-tim-gallaway-and-greenland-paddling/

A google search also pulled up some info on Rob's website but it wouldn't open for whatever reason.

If you search Rob's Facebook page for "Rio Grande" you'll get some info and pics from when he was guiding the trips (about 8 years ago)

Alan

 

[Nick Pending]

A few years back Dan Cooke and company were running guided trips down the lower canyons. They did it for 2-3 years, during the winter, if I remember right. I remember seeing posts but don't remember if it was on Facebook, a canoe forum, or somewhere else. Some of that info might still be floating around out there.

Alan

Desert Sports, the outfitter we used for a shuttle, does guided trips there. I was capable of doing it myself so wasn't interested in paying guides, still am not. Reliable season looks to be late fall into winter, but it can be easy to get into high water, too. Knowing weather generalities before you go would be wise.

 

[duNord]

I'm the OP that originally inquired about extended paddling trips in Florida or elsewhere in the southern US in the winter.

I paddled the Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande in December 2019 and some of the upper canyons (Colorado, Santa Elena, and Boquillas) in November 2022. I'd love to do the Rio Grande again, but catching it with enough water can be challenging. Although it's a long river, most of the water is siphoned off for agricultural, industrial, and residential uses before it gets to the Big Bend area. Water levels in the Big Bend area are largely dependent on dam releases from the Rio Conchos which enters the Rio Grande from the Mexico side near Presidio, TX (just upstream of Big Bend). I check the water levels occasionally and it basically hasn't had enough water to float the Lower Canyons for the last couple of years.

Alan Gage said:
I've always thought the lower canyons of the Rio Grande looked interesting. ...... If I ever do it I'd be tempted to just turn around and paddle back to the car.

I'd second Nick Pending's response. With the current, and all the steep banks and cane barriers, you'd really have your work cut out for you while traveling upstream. I'm not saying it can't be done, but personally I'm not that much of a masochist.

Here is a link to a website that has some good info on various sections of the Rio Grande (including recommended water levels):

Rio Grande, Texas

Rio Grande, Texas is a guide to canoeing, kayaking and rafting the Rio Grande located on the Texas-Mexico border in far west and southwest Texas, with information and links to canoe and raft liveries and rentals, campgrounds, shuttle services and other businesses catering to paddlers and...

southwestpaddler.com

 

[Alan Gage]

I'd second Nick Pending's response. With the current, and all the steep banks and cane barriers, you'd really have your work cut out for you while traveling upstream. I'm not saying it can't be done, but personally I'm not that much of a masochist.

Yeah, it sounds like it's probably not a good idea from the sounds of it. I was envisioning open river banks with no vegetation thinking portaging upstream would be pretty simple but it sounds like that's not the case. I still hope to do it one of these years.

Alan

 

[ppine]

I planned a trip with my brother back in around 2005. We had scheduled late Feb-early Mar for the time table. We were hit by a Blue Norther just around the time of departure with blowing snow and well below average temperatures. The thought of camping in such weather in a deep canyon with winter sun angles was not appealing. We cancelled the trip.

Later we managed to run 80 miles of the Lower Colorado River in Feb. We were hit with more cold weather, frost every night at 300 feet above sea level. Very hard to make a decent fire in the desert. Long nights, darkness is the enemy. But it was a great trip and one to remember.

 

[Nick Pending]

Yeah, it sounds like it's probably not a good idea from the sounds of it. I was envisioning open river banks with no vegetation thinking portaging upstream would be pretty simple but it sounds like that's not the case. I still hope to do it one of these years.

Alan

Because it's desert doesn't mean little or nothing grows there. In fact, if there's water, chances are there is profuse vegetation in any soil that allows plant growth in it. Thick and impenetrable is the usual description of it. The Green and Colorado are good examples. Another is the Rio Grande.

 

[Nick Pending]

I'm likely not going to be as helpful here as I'd hoped to be with usable info on the Lower Canyons of the Rio Grande. Looking through gauges and stages, etc., across a few years doesn't suggest a season as truly reliable to me. duNord also indicated essentially the same in his note above. There's a "monsoon season" of late summer and on into fall rains that bring the river up, but for some of those you might have to be sitting on the riverbank ready to catch them. It's likely not that bad, but I guess some runnable periods can be pretty short-lived.

I didn't really get anywhere with research, but here's some info on the run.

My wife and I launched Feb 27, 2019 on the Rio Grande at Heath Canyon Ranch, site of the closed and uncrossable Gerstacker Bridge between the USA and Mexico. This is a private ranch collecting a trespass fee for access. The Rio Grande Village gauge, which is about 33 miles upstream of here, was 150 cfs or between 2.62 and 2.63 feet on the height gauge and dropping very slowly. A day later it was 145 cfs, so not fluctuating a real bunch. In contrast, this year, same date -- Feb 27, 2024 (about 8 months ago now) -- the flow was about 40 cfs with a gauge height of 2.15 feet. I'm not looking up Dryden gauge levels. Interested parties can do so themselves, not that it would be meaningful. Not sure that 40 cfs is runnable, but the Aulbach guidebook I have says the lower limit for canoes is 1.7 feet on the Rio Grande Village gauge upstream. Has the gauge been "reset" at a different reading between then and now? I have no clue. Likely not but a local outfitter may know, and some of them might disagree with Aulbach on runnable levels. The disparity in perceivable flows at Heath Canyon may just not be evident or show reliably on the gauge upstream. And how long does it take the water to flow the 33 miles from Rio Grande Village down to Heath Canyon? That's not really a factor.

As I mentioned before there are a lot of (small) springs that come in below the Rio Grande gauge which likely keep the downstream flows more stable. For the heck of it, the Dryden gauge at the takeout was recording about 510 cfs that day with a gauge height of 5.17 feet (Dryden gauge records in metric and I'm converting). The two gauges can't correlate too closely. The two gauges are 116 miles apart, and how long does it take the water to flow between them? Where I live and usually paddle I'm used to figuring an average current speed as about 4 mph. That means the water travels about 100 miles a day. At really low flows like this, I'm sure it's slower than that. Maybe a day to get the 33 miles from Rio Grande Village down to our launch at Heath Canyon (aka La Linda)? It sounds like a lot of what we run on here is springwater discharge, and what is coming from upstream makes it enough to be floatable for canoes. More likely at low flows it's more like half and half or more? The springs betweeen the guages seem to contribute on the order of 300-350 cfs. I don't know if there's any fluctuation during the year.

Aulbach seems to provide some conflicting info as to runnable levels, but maybe I'm just not reading things right. He says a minimum of 100 cfs on the Rio Grande Village gauge, which means our run launching at 140-150 cfs is close to bare minimum, and I'd agree with that if I'm allowed to use my one data point curve. He also says that 1.7 feet on the gauge is minimum. That 40 cfs of this year would be too low of discharge, but the gauge height was listed as over 2 feet, which to me is "way over" minimum. Has the gauge been reset? I'm sure an outfitter would be able to clear things up, but I'm not likely going to be running the river again, so it's your trip, you do the needed research and judge things for your skill levels and those you'll be with. I'm sounding like a government bulletin here. Maybe I'm making this more complicated than is needed? With the 2024 election that just finished, get your run in before the wall goes up or the river is closed to lengthwise travel, much less across it.

Anyway, we took out on March 8, 2019, and the Dryden gauge, which we passed getting to the boat ramp indicates a flow of about 490 cfs, stage height on the gauge of 5.1 feet, again converting from metric. That is slightly less than the readings on the day we launched. The Rio Grande Village gauge upstream on that day was maybe 146 cfs with a gauge height of 2.62 feet. Not significantly different on March 8 of this year (2024) the stage was 2.16 feet and between 37 and 38 cfs discharge. Not that that has any bearing on our trip, but again may help correlate put-in and take-out gauges for you. Also not looking up Dryden values for this year.

Like duNord, we did our Lower Canyons run in 2019, though we were on it in Feb/Mar and he was in Dec the same year. My wife and I wanted to do Santa Elena and a couple of the other canyons mentioned by duNord, so I was in contact with Mike at Desert Sports summer of 2022, who kept indicating to me that there weren't any signs of the river likely coming up and allowing a run of those sections. He had said when I'd quizzed him earlier earlier that November is a more reliable month for decent flows in the Santa Elena section, citing the reservoirs releasing water to the Rio Conchos as being needed, and they were all low. We scrapped our trip, but I checked later and the river did come up, which allowed duNord to go on his, and I wish we'd have done it too, but it was likely a good thing we didn't as I'd already started having my vertigo problems. I haven't done any checking since, though it sounds like duNord has.

Does any of the above make sense? It's certainly not very helpful.