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Looking for Wilderness River for Summer 2019

Roads have a way of getting improved as commercial activity demands. Don't plan on it "always being limited." Civilization follows access, and access follows demand.




The Bloodvein is on a lot of bucket lists and many are getting it crossed off with the easier egress at the end. It gets a lot of paddlers from around the world too. Not "too crowded" by any means. In 2017 we portaged back into it from the north and spent three days paddling back into Ontario and going upstream means you see a lot more canoe parties.
 
Yeah, like with global warming, there are always micro ups and downs, but population dynamics on the macro scale cannot be denied. If you build it, they will come....and stay....and build more.
 
Memaquay, looking over the maps for Marshall-Kap, it seems the two long portages are at the beginning and end, accessing the circuit and returning to the road. Do you think a canoe cart, such as this all terrain cart, could be used for that portage?

https://www.leisurepro.com/p-set0611...SABEgKiQPD_BwE

If so, I could portage almost everything in the cart and then return the cart to the car. Reverse for coming out. Your opinion is appreciated.

Black Fly, we flew into a lake in Quebec that had no road access one year. The next year, we flew further north and paddled back and passed through that same lake. There were roads and people building houses. That was such a beautiful pristine lake with high bluffs. I was shattered. And all this was 20 years ago. I shudder to think of what it is like now.

Erica
 
Question for Mr. Recped... IIRC you paddled the Albany, Ontario's largest river at some time in the past, about 1000 kms worth. The last 400 km or so from Limestone Rapids down to Fort Albany require no porting at all again IIRC, except maybe some lining in low water. Would you say this would be a good choice wrt the OP...

Yeah no ports but it's pretty dull in the sense that after paddling the first 50km you're pretty much only have another 350km of the same thing. Some people paddle that section very quickly (high water), for me the levels were VERY low so the current was modest and I found it a bit tedious. Partially it may have been because I'd already been out for a month.

The previous year I paddled the Attawapiskat, from Attawapiskat Lake to James Bay it's similar to the Albany (modest rapids, no portages, one lining) but more interesting and has the amazing "birthday cake" limestone deposits near the end.
 
You could certainly use the cart going in on the first port. However, the last two ports on the way out are fairly challenging, and not cart friendly. From Stone Lake to Ara, the port is 1.6 k, the end of it can be pretty mucky depending on the time of the year. Ara and Meta are huge Lakes, have to exhibit caution on them. The last port out is 2.5 k, and it is not cart friendly. As I mentioned previously, you can continue on down past the bridge to Stone Lake, then come back up and get out at the bridge. You would just need a shuttle on the first day, which I might be able to help you with, depending on time of year.
 
Thank you, Memaquay. I missed the last two portages. It takes me a while to absorb a river trip map. I am not fond of huge lakes, although the river part sounds very interesting. I will continue to peruse. Thanks for the shuttle offer. I do appreciate you help.
 
Memaquay, I apologize for being so dense about this, but the only bridge I see crossing the Kap is near the Sedgman Lake Provincial Nature Preserve, which is well before the turn into Stewart Lake and from there to Stone Lake. What am I missing?

If one keeps following the Kap, and I don't know if anyone has, and there is always the problem of a shuttle, but in theory, it looks like one could paddle at least to Kap Lake and then on further to Melchett Lake and Briarcliffe Lake. There seem to be roads in that area on the topo and an airfield of some sort.
 
Yes. the bridge is at Sedgman, I was proposing paddling down to Stone, then back up to the bridge, to burn off some more time, and avoid the big ports. I have continued on past Stewart a few times, and come out back at Terrier Lake. However, the Kap past Stewart is full of lots of whitewater, much of it that has to be shot. We cleaned out the ports about 5 or 6 years ago, so they will probably be blown in again.
 
Erica, I am in the Winnipeg Manitoba area. If you are leaning towards doing the Marshall Lake trip I would definitely be in for that. I have done a large part of it already once. The port in is not all that bad...cart friendly... and if you come back to the bridge to take out it is no port at all. Side trip to Faubert would add a couple of days instead eh Mem? This is actually pencilled in for one of my "summmer of paddling" adventures. I have solos and tandems depending on your preferences and I am sure we could borrow the party barge from Mem ( Wenonah Spirit 2)

This is a really nice trip and fairly remote....we didnt see anyone the whole time. Great fishing, if that is your thing...its mine for sure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWXK357KGDY&t=380s

I am the blonde in the back of the big yellow boat.
 
I did the Bloodvein a couple weeks after Recped in 2015. I read his his entry in the guest book at the little cabin along the river. Didn't realize who it was until later that year when I saw he'd done the Bloodvein and then I remembered the guest book entry that said the only thing the cozy little cabin was missing was a cat. Anyway, I'm assuming that was him.

I was on the water from August 15th to September 15th. I put in at Johnson Lake on the east side of WCPP and spent a couple days paddling and portaging to the Bloodvein system before heading down to Lake Winnipeg and then paddling back up to the put-in. In the two weeks I spent getting to Lake Winnipeg I only saw one group of 2 paddlers that I passed. On the way back up I met a group of 6 from the UK, a group of 6 from Eastern Europe, and another tandem canoe from the US. I didn't think that was too bad for a month on the water and, like Marten said, when you're going upstream you see a lot more people than when you're going down.

There were some tough portages getting to the Bloodvein in WCPP. Probably more than you're looking to do. There were a lot of rapids on the Bloodvein. A lot of them were easy. A lot of them were unrunnable by most of us. And a lot of them were somewhere in between. But just about all the portages were quick and easy.

I don't know if traffic has increased since 2015. The road had just been completed that summer I believe. Like someone else said the good news is that it's still difficult/expensive to reach the top of the Bloodvein so that should keep traffic down a bit.

Alan
 
I'm looking in Ontario. Considering the Berens, Spanish, French, or some river farther north. Problem is likely time. Maybe a September trip, June or early July if I can swing it. I know I can fly in to the Berens system, but that's a pricey deal.

You can drive to the Berens River north out of Red Lake. I haven't done it but have looked into it a little. Looks like about 5-7 days of flat water paddling to get to Family Lake.

Alan
 
Memaquay, thanks for the clarification. My mind has finally comprehended your suggestion.

Iskweo, Your offer is very kind and it is a possibility, but I have got to have my solo trips. There is something about being cast on your own and delving into something deeper than our human lives that I crave. That said, why don't we get to know each other on PM and see if we can come up with a tandem trip that works.

Alan and Recped, before I do a major river, I probably need to do some solo whitewater instruction. I'm thinking of heading up to Nantahala either this spring or next spring. My tandem skills in the stern are pretty good, but I have done virtually no white water in a solo boat.

My general goal, which was interrupted for many years by health and family problems, is to increase my solo time and difficulty. I do not know how far I will get toward this goal as I am no longer as young or healthy as I used to be. My longest trip, tandem, one canoe, was 29 days in a remote area. Before GPS and satellite phones, etc., etc.
 
There is one more variation, lol, if you are considering it. This spring we are intending on opening up the traditional Frog Creek portages. If you look on your maps, after the bridge, you will see a lake called Makoke. Two ports to the west will get you to the Ottertail River. Once on the Ottertail, you can return to the Ogoki Road. It is only 5 K further north than the Sedgeman Bridge. I was thinking it would provide an alternate exit so that you wouldn't have to completely repeat the trip back up to the bridge, if you went to Stone and back. I don't have any info on those ports yet, they will be completely disappeared, but they were one of the main ways to get from the Ogoki River down to the Kap. Once we are done opening them up, they will be pretty good.
 
I believe the Horton River in the NWT of Canada to be a solo trip that you could handle and enjoy. I did this river many years ago with 3 others and 2 boats. I always did want to return as a soloist but life sometimes gets in the way and things don't get done. Today's fly in and fly out prices would be prohibitive for someone alone. I see on the internet that every summer there is an occasional outfitter who does a commercial trip on this river as well as a couple of private groups who descend parts or the complete length of the river... Sometimes fly in and fly out can be shared and traveling the river can be done alone.

Once in Yellowknife (on Great Slave Lake) I met 2 girls who had circumvented Great Slave Lake taking 6 weeks to do so. Said that once they left the dock in Yellowknife they barely seen another soul. No portages and no bush plane expenses but the wind can be difficult at times.

Have a good day,

G.
 
Memaquay, thanks for the clarification. My mind has finally comprehended your suggestion.

Alan and Recped, before I do a major river, I probably need to do some solo whitewater instruction. I'm thinking of heading up to Nantahala either this spring or next spring. My tandem skills in the stern are pretty good, but I have done virtually no white water in a solo boat.

I'm not suggesting (or not suggesting) you do the Bloodvein but will say that when I did the Bloodvein I had no whitewater experience whatsoever, either solo or tandem. Some easy CI was all I'd ever done. It was pretty intimidating but I slowly pushed myself more and more as the trip progressed. Being a pool and drop river I think it was a good one to learn on. The drops are generally abrupt rather than long and drawn out so you can nearly always see everything from one vantage point when scouting and you don't have to worry about getting swept down 200 yards of rapids if you dump.

Alan
 
I'm not suggesting (or not suggesting) you do the Bloodvein but will say that when I did the Bloodvein I had no whitewater experience whatsoever, either solo or tandem. Some easy CI was all I'd ever done. It was pretty intimidating but I slowly pushed myself more and more as the trip progressed. Being a pool and drop river I think it was a good one to learn on. The drops are generally abrupt rather than long and drawn out so you can nearly always see everything from one vantage point when scouting and you don't have to worry about getting swept down 200 yards of rapids if you dump.

Alan

Thanks for the clarification Alan. I'll look into it. I can do a pool and drop river, I think.
 
I believe the Horton River in the NWT of Canada to be a solo trip that you could handle and enjoy. I did this river many years ago with 3 others and 2 boats. I always did want to return as a soloist but life sometimes gets in the way and things don't get done. Today's fly in and fly out prices would be prohibitive for someone alone. I see on the internet that every summer there is an occasional outfitter who does a commercial trip on this river as well as a couple of private groups who descend parts or the complete length of the river... Sometimes fly in and fly out can be shared and traveling the river can be done alone.

Once in Yellowknife (on Great Slave Lake) I met 2 girls who had circumvented Great Slave Lake taking 6 weeks to do so. Said that once they left the dock in Yellowknife they barely seen another soul. No portages and no bush plane expenses but the wind can be difficult at times.

Have a good day,

G.

Thank you, Gerald.

Ted Kerasote (Merle) wrote Out There: In the Wild in a Wired Age, which was largely a trip report of a portion of the Horton. He kept saying how to rapids were extremely difficult and had tales to tell of how dangerous they were and they only made it through because he and his partner, experienced canoeists, could do it. That was the reason I had crossed off the Horton. They started somewhat downstream of the source and did not get to the Arctic Ocean due to time constraints.

Is Ted not the experienced white water canoeist that he made himself out to be?

I have considered a trip like the women who went around Great Slave Lake. I was previously thinking about Reservoir Gouin, Quebec, about 20 years ago, but never did it. I'd rather be on a river. But no question just off the main paths you lose a lot of people.
 
We encountered 2 or 3 sets of very short rapids on the Horton River, all in the canyon region. It was early July. Easy enough to get around but we ran both and a third technical drop without decking in hard shell boats and we had no problems. Apparently Pakboats are more forgiving. Maybe we had low water levels compared to others who have been through there. So even with high water levels the Horton, as I recall, presents only 2 very short portages. Both in an area teeming with Golden Eagles and Osprey. If I was solo I'd probably do both of these short carries.

I've been through the Gouin a couple of times years ago and it's a canoeing paradise. So many natural camping spots and many days without sight of human presence (this was 40 - 50 years ago and I hear it has not changed that much since then) .Had only paper maps and compass back in those days. A reliable GPS and battery charger would be great on a trip like the Gouin.

Gerald
 
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Gerald's description of the rapids on the Horton River agrees with those in the TR that I linked yesterday. Both agree with the summary in McCreadie's book "Canoeing Canada's Northwest Territories - A Paddler's Guide."

I quote:

"Clear, swift flowing water with few obstacles will attract paddlers in search of wilderness rather than whitewater thrills. The few rapids along the way are primarily found in in the three major canyons on the river, and are easily avoided."

I know a couple who paddled the Horton about 20 years ago. They talked mostly about the fantastic scenery, with no mention of there being numerous, difficult rapids. I have not paddled the Horton, and was not with Kerasote when he did. So can not comment personally about what he may have encountered. It has been my experience, though, that many people tend to exaggerate the difficulty of rapids run. It makes a better story, and it might have actually been their perception. Doesn't make it accurate, though.
 
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