A similar picture from member Thatsapaddlin's recent post " [h=2]New Brunswick Ancient Portage Trail: Cains-Gaspereau Rivers[/h]
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How to Solo Lift a Canoe
- Thread starter Eric Billard
- Start date
I have sometimes positioned portage yokes slightly forward of a center balance position or attached a very light weight item at the stern stem of the canoe. This makes the bow want to rise up when the canoe is balanced with the yoke on the shoulders. This is controlled with a short length of line attached to the bow stem which can be held in one hand. The line holds the bow down but also provides another point of control which is useful when trying to steer the canoe between trees on tight portage trails while still allowing one hand free to carry paddles or gear.
When lifting a heavy boat, I will often try to find some sloping ground or a small rise, place the canoe on the high ground while standing on lower ground to make the lift up off the ground a little easier.
When lifting a heavy boat, I will often try to find some sloping ground or a small rise, place the canoe on the high ground while standing on lower ground to make the lift up off the ground a little easier.
My favorite way to carry my canoe is not to carry it at all : ) (at least me being new to canoeing haven't had to yet)
I enjoyed your paddle video as well. I'm thinking about thinking about breaking away from loving my kayak paddle.
I enjoyed your paddle video as well. I'm thinking about thinking about breaking away from loving my kayak paddle.
Eric, good video!
Your step-by-step breakdown is good, but I differ on how I execute one small step that, for many, will make a big difference, and will allow people to hoist heavier boats than they might otherwise feel inclined to solo-lift. When the hull is up on your thighs and your one arm has reached across to seize the far gunnel, the remaining hand, i.e., the one closest to you, can have a more effective position than merely on the gunnel closest to your body. Rather than hoisting the canoe with your hand gripping the closest gunnel, drop that hand lower. Lower, between your thighs, close to your knee. Place that hand under the gunnel palm flat, fingers spread, on the hull , from where you then have much better leverage for the lift. I used to perform the lift exactly the way you show it in your video until a more experienced tripper corrected me decades ago. That hand placement on the hull makes a big difference. He likened the lift to a relaxed putting-on-of-a-hat. Granted, a rather heavy hat.
Your step-by-step breakdown is good, but I differ on how I execute one small step that, for many, will make a big difference, and will allow people to hoist heavier boats than they might otherwise feel inclined to solo-lift. When the hull is up on your thighs and your one arm has reached across to seize the far gunnel, the remaining hand, i.e., the one closest to you, can have a more effective position than merely on the gunnel closest to your body. Rather than hoisting the canoe with your hand gripping the closest gunnel, drop that hand lower. Lower, between your thighs, close to your knee. Place that hand under the gunnel palm flat, fingers spread, on the hull , from where you then have much better leverage for the lift. I used to perform the lift exactly the way you show it in your video until a more experienced tripper corrected me decades ago. That hand placement on the hull makes a big difference. He likened the lift to a relaxed putting-on-of-a-hat. Granted, a rather heavy hat.
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I found this instructional video inspiring. This gal would be welcome on any of my trips.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=X1-9aNR6AIk
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=X1-9aNR6AIk
Another method:
Have seen a few videos on ladders on side of vehicle to prop canoe up alternating rungs until the roof. Only have a Civic but will try that to save myself from injury. Planning a dolly for any portage. Have a 17' Sea Nymph likely 50 years old.
For the last 45 years, I have always turned the canoe upside down, lifted from the stern, and walked under the canoe until the portage yoke was on my shoulder. I then let the canoe balance on my shoulder, and off I go. There has never been any damage to the wood decks or bow that couldn't be fixed with routine re-oiling of the wood gunnels. Tying the bow and stern painters together with a small amount of slack allows me to hold onto the line with my arm down, controlling the balance. This is basically the same method Yellowcanoe mentioned.
I've been doing the bow/stern hand line method ever since Eric Knudsen showed it to me many years ago when he demonstrated it with his Knupac carry/backpack system. I made a promo photo for him with his pack and a 34 foot voyageur canoe. The line works great, especially with normal size canoes.
That's what I do on a heavier canoe too. I find resting the bow on the ground and working my way forward is easier than going backwards with the stern on the ground. Very little deck damage if you have some brass stems that come up and over and if you pick your roll spot well.
As far as I can tell, no one has talked about or shown getting the boat in portage position from the water and not dry land.
My wife and I are “wet-footers” and try to be tender with are boat.
It can be a very different lift when you are knee to waist deep in water and have slippery, rocky footing.
On these occasions, and when carrying a pack, it is most often not possible to move your feet and position yourself under the yoke. Instead, you should just rotate your upper body, get the boat and yoke positioned on your shoulders, and then proceed to walk out of the water.
Thanks
My wife and I are “wet-footers” and try to be tender with are boat.
It can be a very different lift when you are knee to waist deep in water and have slippery, rocky footing.
On these occasions, and when carrying a pack, it is most often not possible to move your feet and position yourself under the yoke. Instead, you should just rotate your upper body, get the boat and yoke positioned on your shoulders, and then proceed to walk out of the water.
Thanks
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Maybe some good information on the OP's video, but I shut it down because the guy sounded like a used car salesman. "The Tripping Authority" is a title that should have been given to some folks that are now long gone.
I still flip her up all at once, but only because my canoes are lighter than the used to be. Gone are the days of hefting 70lb boats on trips. I still have a Royalex prospector, but it hasn't left the rack in years. When I can no longer flip my Kevlar/IXP boats, I'll try to perfect the other method. Might be soon, I'm afraid.
