Gunnel notching question

[Robin]

I picked up this MR Explorer "Special Edition" kevlar canoe and I need to replace the gunnels. I have never "notched " out the gunnels on any canoes I have restored for resale, but I'm keeping this canoe and wanted keep that feature.

My question is, how do I notch out the gunnels without making it look like I did it with hand tools? I do have a small table saw and a an older Craftsman radial arm saw. (I just used the ras for cross cuts in the past) I really don't want to spend much money on new blades but am open to ideas.

Thanks

 

[scoutergriz]

Do you have a dado blade? Easiest way is to make a crosscut fence, cut the first dado, add a block the same width as the dado, and screw it to the fence,at the desired distance to the next dado. Then you simply drop the first dado over the "pin" and cut the next, move the rail over and drop the second dado over the pin, and so on. you'll end up with evenly spaced notches. all the exact same shape and size, and only need to mark the start and stop points. Here's a video that shows how to make the jig, but his spacing is for a box joint, you'd need to set the length for your scuppers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiPzFNsuN2k

 

[Boatman53]

I do it with a router, like this.
i had two canoes to do so that pic is two pairs of inwales.
Jim
i use a small bull nose bit so the corners are rounded. I think it looks nicer than a square corner to the cut.

 

[memaquay]

Or just make a bunch of spacers that are exactly the same size and glue them on at regular intervals.

 

[Jim Dodd]

I do what Mem suggests.

You can use the same wood, or a contrasting wood for a different look,

All you need is a Table saw, but you know me !!! I use the Skilsaw., then cut spacers to suit, in a miter box, or what ever.
Arrange and glue. This is a messier method, but eliminates the router.

I cut the inwhale at 3/8" thick, and spacers the same ,giving me a 3/4" x 3/4" inwhale. That can be adjusted to taste !

Oh Gotta love the Strongback for gunnel work !

 

[Yohawk]

Robin,
if you do the router method, make sure you use a backing board to minimize tear out.

 

[Boatman53]

Good point Yohank. As you can see in the pic I posted there is a strip of pine that prevents the tearout.
Jim

 

[Robin]

No dado blade and I don't have a router either. I don't really want to buy either at this stage of the game. I'll pass on the spacers, nice idea but prefer one piece. Thanks

 

[Robin]

People are, trying to help you!

I have a complete woodshop, all the machinery,

 

[Alan Gage]

The rest of the quote:

all the machinery, three routers and the one I use most is the $29 harbor freight trim router!

I believe what she meant was that it doesn't cost a lot of money to buy a router and that even a cheap one does a good job. Could probably get a cheap dado blade set for the same price.

Alan

 

[DeniseO30]

so much for somebody trying to help right?

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[Cruiser]

Robin, you can setup a jig for the radial arm and just use your regular saw blade to cut the notches. Just think of your regular blade as a narrow dado, just do a cut, move it, do a cut move it ... it is a bit of work, but you won't have to spend the cash.

It's a bit more back and forth, but it will do the job.

Brian

 

[scoutergriz]

you can do the same as Cruiser says on a tablesaw too

 

[Robin]

The rest of the quote:

I believe what she meant was that it doesn't cost a lot of money to buy a router and that even a cheap one does a good job. Could probably get a cheap dado blade set for the same price.

Alan

Here's a review of her router, I'll pass on that. https://youtu.be/Rsn-_6dkEF

I appreciate the ideas and time spent sharing them, if I was going to do this more than once I would invest in decent tools, but it's a one time thing and I was just looking for a idea on how to do it without spending much money.

I understand the spacer thing, I think it's fine on a stripper but in my opinion not something I would use on a Mad River royalex canoe. Sorry if that offends anyone, (she deleted her snarky post so this response might be confusing to some) I appreciate the idea and photos, and maybe some folks do it that way but I'll pass. I didn't think my honest response would be a problem, not so for some.

Actually, I'm using 18' stock, so I don't have room or a set up to do it properly on my radial arm saw. I should have mentioned that in my op. Please don't suggest I cut it in half....haha, just kidding.

 

[Will Derness]

How about scribing your nothes on the stock and using a hand circular saw, fixed to the proper depth, to precisely cut the two outside edges. Then free hand cut all the stock in the middle. That will remove most of the wood for you. Touch up with a hand chisel.

But that maybe too much of the "by hand" look for you

 

[Iskweo]

We used the router with a round bit...best way to do it. However, a rat tail rasp/file on the edges after chiselling the slots might work on the cheap if you have lots of time to play with. Or cut em on the radial arm,and clean up with hand rasp.
Ohh, ...Will said the same thing. As long as you take your time it will look good Robin.

Christy

 

[Odyssey]

I love power tools as much as the next person but sometimes hand tools are way underrated. But they do take patience which I am normally in short supply of. But here is how Brad the non-carpenter would do it. Cut a block to use as a quicker measuring template and proceed to mark out the dados. Scribe their depth. Cut them with a handsaw with 3-4 cuts each to make knocking out the surplus easier. Finish with a chisel and sanding. Keep your chisel(s) very sharp and they will be your friend. A small detail power sander works wonders too if you can't tease a ROS into the cut-out. Slow and tedious I know but with some tunes playing and no distractions it can be okay. I haven't done gunnels but I have done many other mind numbing projects. This canoe will be a beaut Robin. Looking forward to the after pics.

 

[Cruiser]

Robin,

First post:
I have never "notched " out the gunnels on any canoes I have restored for resale, but I'm keeping this canoe and wanted keep that feature.

This post:
I understand the spacer thing, I think it's fine on a stripper but in my opinion not something I would use on a Mad River royalex canoe.

It sorta seems you are not really clear on what you are trying/wanting to do ... typically if you are dealing with 18' material, you will also have to shift shop stuff around (or move outdoors) to deal with that. If you don't want to spend much and you don't want to move anything either ... well, we all have to move stuff to accommodate projects all the time, it's a matter of motivation to complete.

Don't get me wrong, I happen to also share the ideal that the notches aren't required and I don't build using them either, but if you are going to keep them ... you are going to have to shift stuff around to handle the material or decide you don't want them IMO.


Brian

 

[Jim Dodd]

What ever you decide Robin, is fine with me !

I do like scuppers, for a variety of reasons.

Gluing spacers can be done with Titebond III. I chose Epoxy, as I'm prone to Over kill ! Ha !

Beings you are screwing the gunnels to the hull, I would certainly coat the hull side of the gunnels, with epoxy and let cure before installing. This will help prolong the life of the gunnels.

Poorly cared for gunnels just makes me shutter ! Ha !

Will be waiting for finished pics for sure !

Jim

 

[DeniseO30]

I deleted my post, and I put the troll on ignore.

Definition: An "Internet troll" or "Forum Troll" is a person who posts messages to bait people to answer. Trolls often delight in sowing discord on the forums. A troll is someone who inspires flaming rhetoric, someone who is purposely provoking and pulling people into flaming discussion.

I realize I'll probably be called a troll for posting this but I'm beyond caring.

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