Hi Clint. I have one of those blue roll up tables with aluminum legs. I have been using it for over 30 years. It is large enough to cook on and much taller than the table above.
Ah yes. I remember you posting somewhere else a picture of the table I believe. Thank youHi Clint. I have one of those blue roll up tables with aluminum legs. I have been using it for over 30 years.
I can put two 5 gallon polyethylene pails with Gamma Lids in this Granite Gear traditional #3.5 pack.I'm jumping in here kind of late. Haven't read all the posts so hope this question hasn't already been answered.
Like you, I use screw top, Gamma seal buckets. I was wondering how other people secure them in the boat?
I've always just run a strap though the wire handle, but that's really not very secure, in a capsize.
I'm of the school, not to tie my gear, into the canoe.I'm jumping in here kind of late. Haven't read all the posts so hope this question hasn't already been answered.
Like you, I use screw top, Gamma seal buckets. I was wondering how other people secure them in the boat?
I've always just run a strap though the wire handle, but that's really not very secure, in a capsize.
I'm of the school, not to tie my gear, into the canoe.
If I tip, everything will float, except maybe the tent, I could attach to my cook kit, that will float for sure.
If things are attached to the canoe, it might be a struggle to get the canoe emptied, and righted ?
If you dump on a river, you have a serious problem, if things aren't tied in securely. If the canoe flips and nothing moves, I've done my job.I'm of the school, not to tie my gear, into the canoe.
If I tip, everything will float, except maybe the tent, I could attach to my cook kit, that will float for sure.
If things are attached to the canoe, it might be a struggle to get the canoe emptied, and righted ?
Jim
REI sale starts tomorrow. 20% off coupon. Might have to buy another bag.I can put two 5 gallon polyethylene pails with Gamma Lids in this Granite Gear traditional #3.5 pack.
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Bill Mason did at one time recommend securing packs to the canoe with a tether rope when paddling whitewater and described doing so in Path of the Paddle and in one of his videos. But he later changed his mind on that. In Song of the Paddle he writes:As far as tying stuff in, I do as Bill mason suggests. On flat water tie your packs tight to the bottom of the boat so they will give you some floatation in case you swamp. In WW, tie the packs together with one rope and secure the end of the rope to the boat.
On flat water I don't typically tie my packs in, but I might on big open water. On WW I always tie my stuff as above and on my one fully loaded capsize, I was able to throw the packs out, empty the boat and reload. I was back on the water in minutes and only lost my bailer.
Thanks pblanc, I never caught that in Song Of The Paddle and I'm not sure I agree. I see his point, but I'd rather deal with an empty boat then one with the 150 lbs of gear I would have on a tandem trip. Maybe with more experience I would see the light.Bill Mason did at one time recommend securing packs to the canoe with a tether rope when paddling whitewater and described doing so in Path of the Paddle and in one of his videos. But he later changed his mind on that. In Song of the Paddle he writes:
"In Path of the Paddle I suggested securing all packs on a tether so they could be easily removed for a canoe-over-canoe rescue. ... I have since changed my mind because of what I have learned in hot dog canoeing. ... Packs are always lighter than water. So if they are tied in securely, they will buoy up a swamped canoe and you can maintain some degree of flotation and mobility. ... If you swamp or upset a loaded canoe with the secured packs in waves on a lake, you can right the canoe, climb back in, and paddle it. This can save your life in cold water conditions because you are able to get out of the water immediately."
If I was paddling a long stretch of flat water in the company of other experienced paddlers in other boats, I would probably not tie in my gear since there would be the option of a canoe-over-canoe rescue which can be done very quickly to completely empty a capsized boat that is unladen.
On moving water my practice has always been to secure all gear, and whenever possible have nothing extend above the gunwales. A canoe in current that is trailing gear that is loosely attached by a tether is much more likely to hang up on strainers or mid current rocks in such a location that it is difficult or impossible to get to safely.
Will all due respect to Bill Mason, standard practice for paddling white water is to make sure your gear is secured so well that it stays in place in a capsize. On some western rivers it's required by the agency in charge. Even ones without white water. They don't want gear floating down their river. On loaded trips, dry bags replace float bags. They displace water. That only works if the bags stay in place.As far as tying stuff in, I do as Bill mason suggests. On flat water tie your packs tight to the bottom of the boat so they will give you some floatation in case you swamp. In WW, tie the packs together with one rope and secure the end of the rope to the boat.
On flat water I don't typically tie my packs in, but I might on big open water. On WW I always tie my stuff as above and on my one fully loaded capsize, I was able to throw the packs out, empty the boat and reload. I was back on the water in minutes and only lost my bailer.