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Evolution of an Alaskan DipShip

Snow already? Summer’s just gotten into full punishment and demoralization mode here in Florida. I scowl at all the “Endless Summer” license plates. Clearly bought by people who don’t work outside in it.
 
After a couple seasons my thoughts have “matured” and numerous up-grades have and are taking place to give us the ability to “kill more fish faster”. This canoe is hauled, hanging over the open tailgate and developed some oil-can right at the edge of the gate! Now that winter’s here im enjoying turning ideas into reality and today started correcting the oil can. A quartz light stand is laid on its back with both lights pointing at the hull bottom. Inside; a 60lb bag of cement was placed over the hump and this seems to be working fine. The light only needs to be on 10 min before i cant place my hand on the hull bottom so i shut the lights off and let it cool slowly. Each time i light it up again i see improvement. Once the keel’s plumb, i’ll reinforce it from the inside with carbon and g-flex.

An additional center thwart was added and both spaced to receive a net that will give us a place to dump the fish coming on board and keep them contained rather than squirting all over the floor. Ill post the up-grades as i go along, if your interested?

Here’s the family i brought along a couple season back, their real Alaskans now!
 

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Alasgun, good to see you back.

This canoe is hauled, hanging over the tailgate and developed some oil-can right at the edge of the gate!

Why don't you haul it upside down over the tailgate? That would have prevented the oil can. In any event, your ingenious DIY-ism will likely solve most or all of the problem. Plastic is usually plastic.
 
Thanks Glenn, typically it’s pre-loaded for ease of launching but i can change a number of things that will help.

I didn’t stay away on purpose; last year i went thru a period where “the system” did not recognize me, requiring me to log in every time then it kicked into “i don’t even know who you are”; my interpretation; and the hassle wasn’t worth it going into winter! Having to come up with new pass-words every time was just too much for my pea brain.

I came back a couple days ago to try and find a source for Dynel/S2 glass and once i gave “the system” the new password it wanted; twice, it worked and right now it’s remembering me. Nothing’s changed in my computing arrangement so im happy it’s “back on” and all’s well that ends well!

This fall i added another (probably the last) Carbon fiber net. This is the result of several seasons of catching (and not) enough fish to get a good feel for a more user friendly net. Sharper corners will allow me to hang the net in a more efficient manner, and i’ve developed what i believe will be a much improved way to deal with the net when fish are in the boat; here’s a picture of my first effort, which shows promise snapping onto the gunnel easily and holding the net well. This is my first time working with .125 Kydex and i believe its easier than the thinner stuff.
Measured diagonally the net is a couple inches shy of the “legal 60 in.”
 

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Now that we’ve “transitioned” from nice to not; it’s a no brainer as to where my time gets spent. Those components on the mill table are my effort to turn a pair of thwarts into a skookum fish management system. A heavy weave net will sew into this frame work and give us a place to “dump em” once they are out of the gill net. Previously you tried to grip them to bonk em and keep from smacking your own hand, then clip the tail as required by law and bleed them all in Rodeo fashion because it’s common to have multiple fish coming on board RAPIDLY, when a slug of fish come thru.
It’ll all make sense when you see the “assembled pictures.” In post #42 those thwarts are in place on the canoe, for an idea of the size. It’s gonna resemble a loosely hung trampoline when im done.

No sooner than i finished up my “net hanger”, i improved it; which is par for me. This version is cleaner, stronger and seriously user friendly! The grip .125 Kydex has is something else.
 

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Another up-grade to this dipping operation is how i haul the boat. As mentioned previously, i haul it upright in the pickup over an open tail gate, fully loaded. This is due to tue chaos at the put-in. Everything’s in the boat when i pull up and i simply drag the canoe out of the truck and across a rocky section (down a small embankment) to the water. The return is brutal because the kill bag typically has a 100 lbs of Salmon in it by then. Lifting the canoe nose to tailgate height is all i can do with a loaded boat!
Then this idea hit me so i made a pair of links that will extend the cables allowing the gate to drop roughly 6 more inches, the links keep it off the bumper. Now im building a set of carpeted bunks that match the angle of the gate which raises the canoe nose 14 inches! This will position the stern roughly 10 inches Lower than the previous arrangement, making loading easier for me AND supporting the full length of the hull which should go a long way toward keeping the bottom flat this time.
 

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As a relatively recent resident of Alaska who was exposed to dip netting for the first time this year, I'm enjoying reading through this to understand the purpose behind each mod (it was from shore, but I think that still counts towards being a true Alaskan). Thanks for sharing.

My wife currently has a need for a lot of stability in a boat which has made canoeing a little challenging this year. I'm curious how much your canoe tilts while you're wrangling the net? Have you ever considered an outrigger?
 
Im comfortable in the 38 1/2 inch wide old town and no id not be interested in an outrigger. Are you considering buying a canoe or do you already own one?
If not, go with a raft, lots of them on the water! Plenty of folks lash two canoes together, even saw 3 lashed last year.
Out riggers come in a variety of shapes, most of what i see are home made and they all seem to work fine.

A big factor is knowing a little something about canoes and having some confidence in your gear. The only “capsize” i’ve seen was when a family with 3 small kids pulled up next to me to give me one of the youngster's and without any warning two of them began to climb on board at the same time. In the blink of an eye Mom, Dad and 3 kids were all dog paddling next to me with a “what just happened look on their faces”. Every one had preservers on so the worst damage was to the parents ego.

From Anchorage many folks go to the Kenai and dip from shore or Kasilof. Both of those have better boat launching options than fish creek and you see a lot of very small v bottom boats there, which are far more stable than canoes. A lot of shore dippers do well at Fish creek as well, once you hike all your gear thru the muck for 3/8th of a mile to the mouth!

Just start by describing what you’ve all-ready got or intend to get and we’ll go from there. In post #40 that last picture shows a lot of Options, more rafts than canoes!

Thanks for reaching out im sure i can give you some pointers along the way!
Mike
 
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I have a PakCanoe 165 which means no gunnels and most of the structure is flexible. I think that rules out buying a stabilizer (at least without modification) since they seem to assume they can clip onto gunnels. I'll start a separate thread I'm done enough with our house remodel to have time for side projects. Thanks for the offer of support, tips, and stories.

I'm curious how the back seat turned out. Currently my wife puts a Crazy Creek chair on her canoe seat for back support. The PakCanoe seats are solid wood on the edges so to make a better back seat I might reasonably be able to mount something like that nifty ball joint thing you did in post #17 to connect a seat back to the seat. A hinge seems simpler but might be less convenient if you want to take the seat back on and off frequently. I notice that later pictures of the DipShip don't seem to have a seat back. What as your experience there?
 
Ive see some interesting stuff in the “flotilla” each year but i have never seen a Pacboat! All the dip net fisheries tend to be ruff and tumble events which at times have left me tight against some power boat or so tight between other canoe’s or kayaks that you cant get your net in or out of the water without some effort. This is not the norm but there will be some crazy days each year. I always see inflatable kayaks and recently am starting to see a few paddle-boards!
if you'd post a picture of the gunnel section i could offer some thoughts on a possible mount using kydex strips as a bridge between the boat and an outboard float?
During furious times im on my knees not in my seat, do you have the ability to kneel in yours? Kneeling’s contribution to stability is no small thing while working these fisheries.
Thanks for the kind words about the seat back but it wasn't helpful at all due to being side ways in my seat most of the time where it wasn’t comfortable. If your Wife can sit facing you she will be more comfortable and a simple back support using a 3/4 inch wood dowel and a piece of 1/2 inch plywood can be easily fashioned. The dowel running from the top of the seat back up to where the frame members join in the bow.

As “soft” as these boats appear in the gunnel area i would imagine constantly hauling nets and the continual in an out of the water with those nets could be your bigger problem. If you are set on dipping out of a boat; start perusing Craig's list or alaska list and you will find something better suited to your project.

As they say about many things “Alaskan; once you do your time in the barrel; you’ll get it figured out”. Just dont give up on what can work for you; those 35 Reds are a treasure worth persuing!
 
I don’t know what else to add here so i’ll just add some pictures which are usually a welcome thing.
Headed thru the culvert walking behind the canoe till there’s enough water to ride.
A leisurely morning waiting for the official opening time: 6:00 am.
Coming in on the high tide heavily loaded with fish on that day. Fished a little under 2 hours. This was a peculiar day as the banks on both sides are generally shoulder to shoulder. The Trooper that always attends the fishery said the higher tide scares many of them off??
 

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A knob of some sort helps me know the direction the net’s pointed when im not paying attention, during a slow period. That piece of English walnut was left over from a bygone stocking project.
The other one has a smaller aluminum top with a groove machined across it that is easily felt with your thumb.

Notice the differences in handle length, shore based dippers need those 20ft’ers and are pretty much relegated to fishing on the bottom. Boat folks typically us much shorter handles; i’ve seen some who remove the handle and just hold the hoop! They all catch some fish; when there’s fish coming in!
There’s no end to the speculation regarding “what’s best”, much like any other fishing endeavor.
 
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