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Computer duster, drilled hole dust and epoxy/varnish finish

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I just finished drilling (go count) 19 holes sundry sized holes in a bow utility thwart and got ready to wipe the bare wood down with a tack cloth. But, before that, the can of computer duster compressed gas. A little blast at each hole and surprising amount of wood dust shoots out. A startling amount of dust, that I have come to expect thus expelled.

I epoxy and varnish inside all holes, running a cotton swab or teeny paint brush through each hole before coating the exterior.

I don’t need to be smearing drilled hole dust out onto my brush work; my mediocre finish technique needs all the help it can get.

Any tips or techniques for treating bare wood before an epoxy (or varnish/urethane) coat? I did blow out the shop and am waiting for the dust to settle.
 
Varnish while the dust is settling. At least you will have an excuse then.

Excuses? You want excuses? I got yer excuses right here.

My brush work still sucks, although my roller and tip out work is getting better.

I have a single good quality brush. And am too lazy to clean it each time, so I grab disposable chip brushes or foam brushes as often as not.

Disposable chip brushes shed hair onto the finished surface. Which are hard to see until they have been epoxied in place.

I inspect every epoxied or varnished (urethaned) surface looking for “holidays”, spots that I missed. I look at various angles under direct and indirect light and glare. And then, once it has dried, “Oh look, I completely missed that spot”

I use spar urethane more often than spar varnish on canoe brightwork, and it’s harder to get a good finish with urethane.

The bow utility thwart was a PITA to handle after swabbing through 19 holes and surface coating the rest with epoxy; I lost my slippery gloved grip just as I finished and dropped one epoxied side, which stuck flat to the newspaper covering the bench. It was like Play-dough, I could ready the headlines backwards when I pulled it free.

At least this time I didn’t drop the freshly epoxied piece in the cat litter box when I hung it to dry. The resulting profanities, oh the profanities.
 
If you are looking for a couple of suggestions for varnishing:
- arrange a plastic sheet over the varnish area, so stuff can't just settle down
- remove the piece and spray the area with a fine mist of water before you start ... cleans air and wets the base area, preventing dust kickup
- if you have fluorescent lights, leave them on till the varnish is dry (they create static that holds some dust, which can release when you turn them off .... also another reason for the plastic sheet)


Brian
 
Why a computer duster rather than from the air compressor?

I kind of gave up getting a smooth dust free finish on anything. I try to keep things clean but I'm over being anal about it. A quick wet sanding with 1500 grit after the finish dries works wonders.

Alan
 
Why a computer duster rather than from the air compressor?

I kind of gave up getting a smooth dust free finish on anything. I try to keep things clean but I'm over being anal about it. A quick wet sanding with 1500 grit after the finish dries works wonders.

Alan

Why anything mechanical and not just a drinking straw? My choice when I am drilling holes in brick wall or in concrete.

Do you get static build up on epoxied pieces? When I'm sewing synthetic fabrics static causes every dog hair for miles around to home in on my work. Dry air makes things much worse in winter.
 
Why a computer duster rather than from the air compressor?

I kind of gave up getting a smooth dust free finish on anything. I try to keep things clean but I'm over being anal about it. A quick wet sanding with 1500 grit after the finish dries works wonders.

Well, OK, I do sand everything before recoating, so there’s that.

The 120V shop air compressor, meh, I’d have to get it out, plug it in, turn it on, wait noisily ‘till it pumped up, blast it, turn it off, depressurize before putting it away and wrap up the electrical cord and compressor hose/attachment for storage.

Geeze Louise, by then I could have duster blasted out the hole sandings with a can of compressed air, taken a break, had another beer and a smoke, checked my e-mail, written some train-of-thought meanderings on Canoe Tripping, and gone back to work.

Why anything mechanical and not just a drinking straw? My choice when I am drilling holes in brick wall or in concrete.

Do you get static build up on epoxied pieces? When I'm sewing synthetic fabrics static causes every dog hair for miles around to home in on my work. Dry air makes things much worse in winter.

Machine sewing synthetics may be a different static story, extra credit for pet hair.

I had not thought using a simple drinking straw for those drilled holes. Oh, wait, aren’t straws now verboten unless I order the Quinoa with cauliflower reduction sauce, and first sign an indemnification waiver?

The original paper straw should make a comeback. I haven’t seen one of those in years, and paper straws were a local invention/manufacturer.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drinking_straw

Maybe I should bring my own rye grass straw, like Conk bringing his personally tine-sharpened fork in his pocket for salad remnant spearing.

I have not really noticed static build up in the shop or on the lights, but I live in a humid area with a concrete floored shop. There is not a lot of dry air in the shop unless I run the AC unit or a dehumidifier.

There are seven 48” double fluorescents in the shop, a pull cord 48” double LED over the bench (thanks DougD for that high intensity suggestion), and a couple goose-neck task lights. None seem that static dusty.

Dust-wise it may help that my shop is attached to the main house via a small mudroom/firewood room, and I try to keep the shop clean, so I’m not foot-tracking stuff in and out of the house. Gawd bless the lawn & leaf blower. Yes, I aim it at the lights, ceiling, walls, bench and floor, wait ‘til the dust settles and then blow it out again. Rinse, lather, repeat.

And gawd bless the shop’s 2-car garage door, even if I only prop it open it 6 inches in winter and quickly blow the floor debris via the gap at floor level, before all my precious heat escapes. That 30 seconds of floor debris blowing really helps keep things clean (as does a smooth concrete floor with little resting on it other than bench and table legs)

I drilled some hardwood holes today with a spade bit. And when finished looked at the mess and immediately shop vac’ed up the curlie-cues from the drill press, vise, bench and underfoot floor. Gawd bless the shop vac too.
 
Well, OK, I do sand everything before recoating, so there’s that.

I knew you were sanding between coats. I do the 1500 grit after the final coat. Smooths out any little dust nibs and leaves a nice finish. Really makes it feel nice.

Alan
 
Got me a pack of stainless steel straws. I keep one with my bamboo cutlery set I take to meetings so I don't have to use the plastic stuff. Guess that makes me turtle friendly .
 
Depending on the size of the hole, pipe cleaners work pretty well to apply epoxy or finish to the inside of holes and don't tend to shed little bits of cotton.
 
Depending on the size of the hole, pipe cleaners work pretty well to apply epoxy or finish to the inside of holes and don't tend to shed little bits of cotton.

Pete, I do use pipe cleaners for most holes. They work great with 3/16” machine screw holes. I thought I had inadvertently purchased an ample supply of epoxy/varnish pipe cleaners at JB’s in North Carolina (now sadly a small remnant of the vast kitchy clutter it once was).

I bought several packs of “100% extra absorbent cotton pipe cleaners” in the JB’s tobacco area. For cleaning my pipes. At a great price.

The great price was because they were too thick to pass through the stem of any pipe I own, excepting perhaps the bong. But they were perfect for epoxy and varnish work.

I use cotton swabs for the ¼” holes on the sail mount hardware and the chamfered holes for bungee cord. They don’t shed much cotton if you use a fresh swab end for each hole.

EDIT: At least with pipe cleaners you can use the same one for every small hole on a varnish or epoxy job. I have only two pipe cleaners left out of the 3 or 4 large packs I got at JB's. Now I wish I'd bought more.
 
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