Well, all the phenolic tips are epoxied on and rough trimmed.
You can also see where I've added epoxy fillets at the shaft/blade interface. If there were no fillet there, I would never get the glass to tuck into those corners.
Couple decisions now...what weight cloth, and what to do about the edges?
My previous paddle builds used 4 oz E glass, but Cruiser mentioned 2 oz cloth. Hmmm, let's table that discussion for a few moments.
Edge treatment? I'm considering some edge wrap when I laminate the blades, to avoid this sort of condition:
That's one of my 25 year old paddles, see how the edge of the cedar is worn away, but not the phenolic tip?
So I was curious if my similar aged Sawyer paddles (I don't care if they used to have a Mad River label on them, they're Sawyers, which in reality are Al Camp's) had the same sort of wear.
Take a look:
You can see a few things going on here. Firstly, you see where the shaft had delaminated and I repaired it maybe 20 years ago. But little edge wear.
But let's look a little closer:
Yup, those tips are ready to fail all the way across. I don't know the details of this paddle's construction, but there appears to be some sort of filler applied at the tip/blade interface. The glass has fatigued on both sides and at both edges. What adhesive and/or filler was used, I have no idea. However, if the laminate was strong enough, that joint should never see that much stress.
So,I'll circle back to that tabled discussion about the 2 oz vs 4 oz cloth...4 oz it is. Even though I'm confident that my tip/blade joint is superior to the commercially built paddle, I am a belt, suspenders and rope kind of guy.
That leaves only a decision about edge treatment. On one hand, my paddles have lasted 25 and 35 years with exposed end grain (they were epoxy sealed at some point in their life). OTOH, I've seen someones paddle (Alan's maybe? Cruiser's) with a very clean wrap on the edges. A contrasting color, was it black? Some Dynel would be nice, I think Mr McCrea was diddling with Dynel sleeving. I'm not confident that I could reliable slit some Dynel sleeving...Maybe a bias woven tape? I mean, even glass would be better than raw cedar end grain.