spray cover without snaps or velcro

Yes, I need a spray cover for the summer-long trip down the Missouri River. Reading the posts by members of this site have convinced me its use will outweigh the disadvantages. However, I got stuck on the “Now drill 60 holes in the side of your boat to attach the snaps.” I built a cedar strip just for the trip, I can’t put a bunch of holes in her; at least not without a story about rapids and large rocks. So time to look around the shop for alternatives to snaps.

Hook and loop would be too temporary for a 3 month trip; I’m sure it would peel off or get gummed up with mud and river debris. A cinch cord around the perimeter would not be tight enough in the center of the canoe. Maybe a clamp that attaches to the gunnels would do the job. So, I tried extra large binder clips, which held the cover but it was wider than the gunnels and stuck out to the side about ¾”. Plus it’s made of metal so it would probably rust before the trip ended.

Gunnel clamps made of PVC that have been heated to a malleable temperature is the home-made solution. I used some 2 inch diameter PVC sewer pipe cut into rings about 1/2 inch wide, then cut the rings in half to make a couple “C” shaped pieces. I heated them for a few minutes on the shop (clothing) iron until they become soft enough to straighten, flattening them with a board pressed on top. While it is still very warm, clamp the now straightened PVC strip around a piece of wood or other form that is the same thickness as your canoe’s gunnel. It should now look like the letter “J”. Let it cool for a minute (literally), then give it a try, snapping it over the outer gunnel. The longer, top of the “J” goes on top of the gunnel, facing inward. Sand and round the edges so it does not cut through the spray cover. Drill a small hole in the top of the “J” for a string to be attached to it and the spray cover, so they don’t fall into the river and become a fossil in the mud.



I sewed a 1.5” wide nylon rub strip (lightweight webbing) the length of the spray cover on both sides at the location where it meets the gunnel. This should protect the cloth from the abrasion of the clips being attached and removed. Depending on your gunnel width, maybe 2” wide webbing would be better. This would also give some range/variability for tall gear beneath the cover. I also sewed small tabs that just stick out from behind the webbing to provide attachment places for the strings. Give the PVC clips a coat of spray paint and get on the water!



My gunnels are mostly square but I know many canoes have tapered gunnels. You’ll have to make the wooden form the same size and shape to match your gunnels. An additional bend in the PVC may be needed at the inner edge of the gunnel to make it more secure.



This project is yet untested. So far it’s just the restless actions of someone wanting to do something canoe related while it’s winter. However, after following this excellent site for some time I know helpful comments and thoughtful critiques will follow in the discussion. Bring it!

I have home made canoe covers done in both ways, I fastened snaps to a Hornbeck (back when they had wooden gunwales), For my races on the Yukon River, we discovered a better choice was to fasten 2 inch wide Velcro (with contact cement) to the outside of the gunwales, both on both on cedar woodstrip and carbon voyagers and a carbon C4. The hardest part was sewing the second half of the Velcro to the waterproof nylon fabric. Custom spray covers were designed for each paddling position, necessary for paddling through the 3' high standing waves at Five Fingers Rapids. Other than protecting us from spray when in high winds and waves , it especially protected me in the bow when cutting through FFR. Great for rain protection and also. Another benefit was the cover kept the air on our lower torso and legs relatively warm against the cold of the icy water coming through the hull. There is no water more loaded with thick silt than the lower Yukon River. The silt and mud got everywhere, especially whenever we landed. But it never seemed to be any problem with clogging or keeping the Velcro from attaching. total cost of snaps for my Hornbeck from the hardware store was about $24. Strips of Velcro to go around longboat canoes, was over $100, but worth it.

When Charllie Wilson was working with Placidboats, he came up with a plastic hook and loop to fasten a cover they made for my wood gunwale Rapidfire. Works ok, but I feel that Velcro solutionworks much better.

Snaps on a Hornbeck


Velcro on a cedarstrop voyageur

Red Leaf Designs uses snap studs mounted with 3M adhesive tape, so no drilling is required:

Red Leaf Designs has snaps using a 3M adhesive. No drilling and very durable. They will be at Canoecopia if you want to see it in person. The Vores are great people.


I love the ingenuity of your solution, but am a bit concerned about durability. Break or lose a few and now the cover is pretty well useless. But that may be my conservative edge coming out.

@Pseudonym

Hahahah, beat me by *that* much...

Welcome WG, I like the DIY approach and your solution seems well thought out. I can see Tryin's point about durability but, if your gunwales are consistent widths the whole way (sounds like they are), simply taking extra clips might suffice.

With a couple of months until launch, it seems that you'd get a pretty good idea of durability by taking the cover off & putting it back on daily until Spring.

Good luck and I hope you'll post a TR when finished. Sounds like a great trip.

There's always the option of 3M Dual Lock...
BTW, welcome to the forum.
Let's see a few more pics of your stripper.

That's a clever solution, @wildgoose . Welcome to the forum.

I talked to Cassandra Vore (Red Leaf Designs) about the 3M-backed snaps yesterday at the show. They no longer recommend them as they have experienced a degradation in adhesive effectiveness. Cassandra told me that they believe 3M implemented a formulary change, which has reduced adhesion to composites.