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How to set up the canvas stretcher

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Michigans Upper peninsula
i am thinking about setting up the anchor points for a canvas stretcher my in the studs of my roughly 20’ garage. So heres a few questions: *Is this feasible?
*How high off the ground do you set the anchors
*about how much tension will a taught canvas have snd will 2X4 studs handle it?
*where do folks get their recanvasing supplies like clamps, pins, etc.
i tried searching the forum but could not find a similar topic.
Thanks
Bruce
 
The canvas clamps I made myself from 2x4’s . The canvas is stretched drum tight the cable that stretched it is marked, the canoe in put in the canvas envelope and stretched to the same drum tight mark. Then a bunch of weight is put into the canoe (I guess before you crank it tight ) so it settles down in the envelope. I’m not sure I would trust wall studs to be sufficient. Maybe others have tried it.
Jim
 
Thanks. Its an old garage so thats why i asked.
i could possibly anchor it corner-to-corner. or. . . perhaps extend my backyard patio and convert it into a canoe shed ;)
 
Here’s a video showing my stretching unit. I doubt one 2x4 alone at each end would be suitable for anchor points, if you could attach a 2x4 horizontal on the wall, either outside or inside that might do the trick. I used the corner timbers in my pole barn in the video, that worked well.
You can also do it outside between trees, although I tried it and the wind became a problem.


I made my own “clothes pins” that you see in the video, they snug up the canvas at the ends like Jim mentioned. I use both C clamps and one handed “Irwin” clamps, 12” I think.
1719660033707.jpeg1719660033707.jpeg
You can get supplies from Northwoods Canoe here in Maine, they ship, but there may be builders/ restorers near you where you can visit and save on shipping and get advice. I would Google “canoe shops near me” or “canoe restoration near me”. I’m pretty sure there are a few in the UP.
 
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Depending on which side of the UP you live on you might contact Alex Comb at Stewart River Boat works for canvas, tacks and stuff like that. His website says he doesn’t ship anymore, but with prior arrangements, you can drive over to pick it up. He’s just north of Duluth, Minnesota, a nice drive and maybe cheaper than shipping charges anyway.
alexcomb@gmail.com
218-834-2506
When I was shopping for a canoe I had some correspondence with him, pre-internet days. Don’t know the man and have no financial interests or axes that need grinding.
 
I stretch canvas with the canoe upside down on sawhorses, so having anchors low to the ground works best. One anchor point is an eye bolt into the bottom plate of a 2x4 stud wall in my garage. The other anchor point was my car parked in front of the garage. Last time I had a come along attached to both sides so I could slowly increase the tension evenly. I have done one side only, but I think the tautness is more uniform if you can pull evenly from both sides. There is a picture HERE in this thread.

Mark
 
Depending on which side of the UP you live on you might contact Alex Comb at Stewart River Boat works for canvas, tacks and stuff like that. His website says he doesn’t ship anymore, but with prior arrangements, you can drive over to pick it up. He’s just north of Duluth, Minnesota, a nice drive and maybe cheaper than shipping charges anyway.
alexcomb@gmail.com
218-834-2506
When I was shopping for a canoe I had some correspondence with him, pre-internet days. Don’t know the man and have no financial interests or axes that need grinding.
Appreciate the tip. Duluth is still about a 4 to 6 hour drive for me but everything is a roadtrip up here.
 
When I go to visit friends in Minnesota (my childhood home). I make a long day trip to Marquette Michigan to my favorite Pastie place then swing south to stock up on Trenary Toast (both cinnamon & cardamom) in the little town of Trenary, Michigan. I then head southwest to get some Nueske’s Bacon in Wittenberg, Wisconsin. I have in the past drove all the way around Lake Superior, just to see the fall the colors. I bring a small camp kit with me so if I find a place I like I can car camp for a night or a week if I want to.
Driving from the Mackinac bridge to Duluth to get canoe parts would be time well spent.
 
Like what Robin described, I’ve anchored a horizontal 2x6 between two studs for an anchor with no issues.

I’m not sure the length of your canoe, but 20’ isn’t a lot of room to work with. One of the points being outside may be your best bet.

I prefer the canoe in the envelope to be waste high when stretched. My anchors are roughly 6’ high.

Good luck! Pretty easy going once you get started.

Bob
 
When I go to visit friends in Minnesota (my childhood home). I make a long day trip to Marquette Michigan to my favorite Pastie place then swing south to stock up on Trenary Toast (both cinnamon & cardamom) in the little town of Trenary, Michigan. I then head southwest to get some Nueske’s Bacon in Wittenberg, Wisconsin. I have in the past drove all the way around Lake Superior, just to see the fall the colors. I bring a small camp kit with me so if I find a place I like I can car camp for a night or a week if I want to.
Driving from the Mackinac bridge to Duluth to get canoe parts would be time well spent.
Oh yeah! I’d wager theres not a bad mile in the route. I’m in Escanaba so we take the inland route up to the Porkies, which is on way to Duluth, though we’ve only ever gone that far once or twice.
 
Here’s a video showing my stretching unit. I doubt one 2x4 alone at each end would be suitable for anchor points, if you could attach a 2x4 horizontal on the wall, either outside or inside that might do the trick. I used the corner timbers in my pole barn in the video, that worked well.
You can also do it outside between tress, although I tried it and the wind became a problem.


I made my own “clothes pins” that you see in the video, they snug up the canvas at the ends like Jim mentioned. I use both C clamps and one handed “Irwin” clamps, 12” I think.
View attachment 142073View attachment 142073
You can get supplies from Northwoods Canoe here in Maine, they ship, but there may be builders/ restorers near you where you can visit and save on shipping and get advice. I would Google “canoe shops near me” or “canoe restoration near me”. I’m pretty sure there are a few in the UP.
Many, many thanks for the tip. It really looks like a two handed job so i’ve been contemplating work arounds for certain aspects of the the job. Though i haven't even begun yet, i’m trying to visualize the restoration and predict any stumbling blocks before i get to em. The one handed clamps will be a big hrlp, and economical too.
Like what Robin described, I’ve anchored a horizontal 2x6 between two studs for an anchor with no issues.

I’m not sure the length of your canoe, but 20’ isn’t a lot of room to work with. One of the points being outside may be your best bet.

I prefer the canoe in the envelope to be waste high when stretched. My anchors are roughly 6’ high.

Good luck! Pretty easy going once you get started.

Bob
It’s a 15’x24’ one car garage and The canoe is 16’. I was thinking maybe adding a 4x4 to the studs at each corner snd running slinging it diagonally to give a little more strength and length.
 
My setup. Anchored at two large vertical support posts in my barn. If you're using standard stud walls as the anchor points, I would attach a 2x4 horizontally on at least four 2x4 studs with lag screws. Then attach your canvas setup with a yoke at one end and a come-along at the other. I set the height at roughly chest height because when the canoe is in the envelope and weighted, it will drop significantly. You don't want to have to be on your knees to stretch and fasten the canvas!

My 'clamps' at each end are simple 2x4's with door butt hinges at the top, clamped below to hold the canvas. I fully stretch the canvas overnight, then release and insert the canoe, then re-tighten. Since the canvas is suspended between single points, I sometimes add stabilizing guy lines to keep the canvas (and canoe) vertical. tempImageIujI7K.png
 
did this to my canvas clamps to ensure no slippage.
That’s probably the most secure method. I slide a piece of 1/2” cpvc plumbing pipe into the doubled over canvas before clamping. Never slips. Probably a 1/2 x 1/2 square strip of scrap wood in the fold might work even better.
 
Here's an image that illustrates the suspension/guy lines at each end. Keeps the envelope vertical and allows you to adjust the height of the canoe/canvas off the floor for easy access. The orange ratchet straps allow for easy vertical adjustment. The side clamps are just holding the envelope open for easy placement of the canoe on one's own. tempImagesFgmIa.png
 
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