source for wood trim for Mad River Explorer

[lowangle al]

I am repairing a friends MR Royalex Explorer that needs new decks and about 8 or 10 inches of new inwhale material on both stems. Does anyone know a supplier that sells MR replacement parts? I found one, Harmony Gear, but their decks were only 7 inches wide and the ones I need are 71\2 inches.
My other question is, Iplan on cutting the old inwhale at a 90 degree angle as opposed to a "kerf" cut, will this significantly affect the strength. At the 8 or 10 inches I need to replace there will be two screws holding the inwhale to the outwhale and the cap style deck will cover the whole repair.

 

[Guest]

I am repairing a friends MR Royalex Explorer that needs new decks and about 8 or 10 inches of new inwhale material on both stems. Does anyone know a supplier that sells MR replacement parts? I found one, Harmony Gear, but their decks were only 7 inches wide and the ones I need are 71\2 inches.

I lack the tools and patience to make decent inset decks. And probably the skills. I just top mount wood deck plates, which can then be of my chosen size and shape. Made at least as large as the outwales all around. Usually a bit larger for better end of gunwale protection, I would rather deal with a making a new, simple top mount deck plate than deal with hidden inwale areas.

Simply screwed in from the top using brass screws and finish washers. That look good to my eye, especially with the brass, and really easy to take on and off and back out gunwale ends for future reoiling or etc.

I know inset deck plates look good, and demonstrate some craftsmanship, but I do not see the functional point.

 

[dougd]

I just got some left overs from a MR Explorer from a friend who toasted his. I do some measurements this eve and if you want them and they are in good enough shape for you I can send them to you. I send some pictures or post them. I don't know of a source to buy them so I make my own most of the time and like Mike I do a top plate. Also, on my MR Malecite I did the exact type of cut up near the bow and it's held strong with no problems for over 5 years.

dougd

 

[lowangle al]

thanks for the response guys. I spoke with Jerry from Island falls canoe today to order some other stuff and he is going to hook me up for cheaper than I could buy a board. The original decks were top mounted cap style so it will be an easy fix. Jerry seemed like a heck of a nice guy willing to answer some other w\c questions I had enthusiastically, I would do business with him again anytime.

 

[pblanc]

I have seen canoes in which people spliced in a section of inwale or outwale using simple butt joints, and the results were not to good, IMO. This type of joint tends to leave a "hot spot" in which the curvature of the hull at the gunwale splice is straitened by the joint. I would really suggest using a scarf joint as these are not that difficult. A lot of people recommend using very long scarf joints cut 1:8 or greater (width of inwale to length of joint) but I have used much shorter scarf joints of 1:3 and been perfectly happy with the results. These require only a slightly longer splicing segment of wood and do not tend to result in a hot spot. I use West Systems G Flex epoxy to bond the joint together.

 

[Guest]

I spoke with Jerry from Island falls canoe today to order some other stuff and he is going to hook me up for cheaper than I could buy a board.
Jerry seemed like a heck of a nice guy willing to answer some other w\c questions I had enthusiastically, I would do business with him again anytime.

Looks like an interesting company. It's always nice to hear about a new-to-me canoe business.

http://www.islandfallscanoe.com/

 

[lowangle al]

I have seen canoes in which people spliced in a section of inwale or outwale using simple butt joints, and the results were not to good, IMO. This type of joint tends to leave a "hot spot" in which the curvature of the hull at the gunwale splice is straitened by the joint. I would really suggest using a scarf joint as these are not that difficult. A lot of people recommend using very long scarf joints cut 1:8 or greater (width of inwale to length of joint) but I have used much shorter scarf joints of 1:3 and been perfectly happy with the results. These require only a slightly longer splicing segment of wood and do not tend to result in a hot spot. I use West Systems G Flex epoxy to bond the joint together.

Thanks pb, were the ones you saw within 8 or 10 inches from the ends? The hull is pretty straight there and its thik royalex

 

[Boatman53]

Besides the hot spot as you called it there are other problems with that type of repair. A scarf joint glues long grain to long grain wood surfaces, a butt joint glues end grain. It is a very week bond and water will get in and will be a constant source of finish failure. It's not strong even when it is in a straight section.
My two cents.

Jim

 

[lowangle al]

Im not too worried about strength so klose to the ends I wasn't going to glue them. They are mostly needed to have something to screw the deck caps to.