Looking for tips for building a hard shoulder chine canoe

[jsb2]

Hi everyone. I'm in the beginning stages of putting together a cedar strip canoe. I'm building an Ashes Solo Pack 13' canoe (https://ashesstillwaterboats.com/canoe-plans/ashes-solo-pack/) and I'm attempting to build the hard shoulder chine option. After much searching of the internet I haven't been able to find any tips on the build process for this part. Once I get past the chine the rest of the canoe should be relatively straight forward. The chine is up at the tumble-home. A view of the plans that show the chine can be found here: https://ashesstillwaterboats.com/canoe-plans/ashes-solo-pack/#lightbox/2/ and I've attached a close up snip of the chine to this post. The forms are cut to the dotted line in the snip. The issue I'm trying to solve is how to get around hard edge in the middle of the boat. I have an idea but would love to learn from the wisdom of those who've built something similar.
Thanks!
-Joe

 

[Traveler]

I’ve built this canoe, but not the hard-chined version. I would guess that you can do it by extending a little past the chine as you strip up from the sheer, then fit the flat edge of the next strip onto the back of the overlap. There is a good description and illustration of what I mean on the first 2 pages of Stripperguy‘s Kite build here: https://www.canoetripping.net/threads/j-winters-kite-build.848/. Using narrow strips until you get around the chine would also be helpful.

 

[Gamma1214]

I'm hoping to finish my Freedom Solo build in the next week or so and it has a similar chine configuration. Bear Mountain had me place the starter strip at the chine and I then built from the sheer to the starter strip. It required tapering several strips in each quarter in order to close in the hull but I'm pleased with the result. I used a combination of small block plane, a rasp and 150 grit glued to a board to fit the tapered strips.

(note: there may very well be better ways to do this but the above method did work. Side benefit, if you're so inclined: your build will essentially include up to 5 "whiskey strips"... cheers!)

 

[jsb2]

Thanks all. Traveler, I saw j-winters kite build pics and thought that's what I saw. Thanks for confirming. Any pics of your build on here?
Gamma, thanks for your input too. I might see how the approach you outline will work for me.
-Joe

 

[dogbrain]

There are a couple of Kite builds documented on this forum including mine and Stripperguys. Here are 3 pictures from the Kite plans that tell the story of how to strip the tumblehome. Your canoe plans are different than the Kite, but yours looks a little easier. I would start by stripping from the sheer line and up past the knuckle, creating an overhang. Then bevel the first strip above the knuckle to fit against the strip below. I hope this helps, Mark.

Edit: Once you pull the hull off the forms, add a thickened epoxy fillet on the inside of that tumblehome for strength and so the glass will lay tight. Round off that hard chine on the outside so that the glass will lay down there as well.

 

[Alan Gage]

I've built a few hulls that way. I do it just like the others describe.

https://flic.kr/p/rnZGz9

https://flic.kr/p/qr6toE

https://flic.kr/p/rpJre6

Here it is before planing off the overhang:

https://flic.kr/p/rpLcyC

And after planing it off:

https://flic.kr/p/rtqSq1

Like dogbrain said you'll need to round off the outer edge and add a fillet to the inside edge so the fiberglass will lay properly.

It's easier done than explained.

Alan

 

[Cruiser]

I have built 2 Freedom Solos with that hard chine, I followed some advice from a builder friend. 1) have a few narrower strips for the chine area 2) On the mold area were the chine is sharp, just round it off using something like a 3/8" radius

You still get the hard chine look, but the narrow strips ( I used 3/8" ) will follow the curved edge easier, really simplifies this area of the build.

Brian

 

[Gamma1214]

Any pics of your build on here?

Probably more than you want LOL.

BTW: I glassed the inside today (update to the thread pending) and found that fitting the strips is the easy part. That sharp chine made it hard to keep the glass flat on the hull. I wound up using a paintbrush to spread the epoxy on the tumblehome and tucking the chine area tight with my (gloved) epoxy-covered fingertips. Maybe a filet (not sure what that is) would make it easier... (Still totally worth it IMO)

 

[Alan Gage]

Maybe a filet (not sure what that is) would make it easier... (Still totally worth it IMO)

Yes, it makes all the difference. A filet is just a bead of thickened epoxy that softens the sharp inside edge. The easiest way by far I've found to apply it is to put the thickened epoxy into a zip lock baggy and nip off one corner of the bag with a scissors. Now you can squeeze it out like a piping bag. Get it as good as you can when squeezed out and then give it a quick wipe with a gloved finger to smooth it out, give it a concave shape, and feather the edges. Super simple.

Alan

 

[Gamma1214]

Thanks Alan. If I may, I have a question on how you stripped the chine in the photos above... By stripping the tumblehome proud of the chine as you did, could we then use a trim router with a flush cut bit to quickly and easily clean up the hull? Honestly, seems a lot more time-efficient than how I did it (fitting every strip individually)

 

[Alan Gage]

A flush trim bit might work but since it's cedar and the strips are thin it takes hardly any time with a planer.

Alan

 

[jsb2]

Thanks everyone. Your comments are very helpful.

 

[Gamma1214]

Joe: Looking forward to seeing the build thread.