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Although the previous thread’s subject line is unspecified School me on carbon fibre paddles, and does not excluding the Devil’s own handiwork, this topic would get lost in that other thread.
I know I’m not the only Devil’s double blader on this board. What doubles do other slackers like and use, in which canoes?
You may be surprised at 235cm length, at least in the stern seat. That of course depends on the actual gunwale width at, and in initiating-stroke front of the seat, the blade size and shape and your preference for a high or low angle stroke in canoe use.
FWIW, a canoe length appropriate double used in the bow on a tandem provides a lot of propulsion, no matter the paddler’s strength or stroke skills. Especially helpful when, eh, the unseen stern paddler is doing naught but lazy correction strokes. Not that I’d ever be caught doing something that; I could tell when my bowman was about to turn around for a look behind and start paddling again. I doubt sweet-voiced Rosie the hound would rat you out.
When the boys were pre-teens and we paddled tandems I could call out “Gimme what you got!”. They would hit it hard with a double bladed, and they pulled us out of some tricky, Dad miscalculated situations when I needed some immediate oh-crap motor.
If I carried one double blade in a tandem I’d rather it be sized for the bow paddler’s use. I could manage in the stern with it, and maybe even bow backwards solo as well in some canoes.
Paddling solo, “center” seated, starting my stroke near the widest part of the hull, I use a low angle touring stroke, and like the asymmetrical, dihedral blade shape and 52cm x 16.5cm size - what Werner calls “mid-sized” - on the 260cm Camano. Our other favored composite doubles, a couple in the longest “standard” length 250’s, up to the (usually too lengthy) custom 270, are very close to those Camano blade specifications.
I also like the Werner’s 15 degree feather angle adjustability ferrule, although I am firmly settled on personal choices of either 0 or 30 feather right hand control, and never vary from those two adjustment settings. YMMV.
I have yet to find an adjustable length ferrule I liked. I don’t much like even a little button clip sticking up in the middle of the shaft; the ones with an actual lever sticking out are a no go for me, ‘cause, um, several reasons. It would have to be a non-clunky, near seamless length adjustment ferrule, and provide more than 10cm of adjustability to be worth it.
Higher end composite paddles have factory matched ferrules, and the ferrules are often serial/lot numbered. Sometimes the ferrules are numbered with a label that can wear down to illegibility, or fall off completely. It’s worth writing that number down; if the paddle ever needs factory repair have the matching ferrule number helps.
The evolution of canoeing double blades, from Shaw & Tenny’s classic (if fragile) Hereshoff blade design, to more recent canoe-length appropriate double blades, continues. From wood to aluminum/plastic/nylon to carbon fiber, and from fluttery flat blades to fatiguing symmetrical spoon blades to an asymmetrical, dihedral power face that require less of a clenched fist Hulk grip.
We have antique wood doubles with flat blades, and modern wood laminate, slightly spooned, asymmetrical doubles. Some of them are quite beautiful paddles, with different woods and striking grain patterns.
Much prettier to look at, but looks are only skin deep. The comparative weights, nope; nothing but carbon doubles for me when I’m lifting one end of a 250 or 260 double out of the water with every stroke thousands of times a day. Do the rough math, say a 2oz weight difference between paddles, and a day trip, call it a mere 8,000 strokes.
That’s a half a ton I’m not lifting during that day trip. Multiple that by a multi-day trip with a more heavily loaded canoe. That’s a giant nope nearly every time. “Nearly”, if we are on a low water rocky bottom day trip I may grab less expensive paddles to abuse. And soon enough wish I had those couple extra ounces gone.
In the hands of a less durable bow paddler those couple ounces become all the more important. I’m willing to do 12oz reps, but unlike a paddle those magically get lighter with every sip.
I once had a dear and distant friend visit for a day paddle. He worked for a kayak eco-tour operator, and was able to pro-deal a high end carbon double in custom canoe length. He did not bring that carbon featherweight, and I unthinkingly lent him a 260 Bending Branches Sun Shadow wood double. Not a beast in terms of weight, we had a lotta happy miles on that double blade.
He was carbon fiber spoiled, the few extra ounces nearly killed him. After a hundred yards he was fifty yards behind, and b*tching up a storm. Someone (not me) had to trade paddles with him.
I know I’m not the only Devil’s double blader on this board. What doubles do other slackers like and use, in which canoes?
You may be surprised at 235cm length, at least in the stern seat. That of course depends on the actual gunwale width at, and in initiating-stroke front of the seat, the blade size and shape and your preference for a high or low angle stroke in canoe use.
FWIW, a canoe length appropriate double used in the bow on a tandem provides a lot of propulsion, no matter the paddler’s strength or stroke skills. Especially helpful when, eh, the unseen stern paddler is doing naught but lazy correction strokes. Not that I’d ever be caught doing something that; I could tell when my bowman was about to turn around for a look behind and start paddling again. I doubt sweet-voiced Rosie the hound would rat you out.
When the boys were pre-teens and we paddled tandems I could call out “Gimme what you got!”. They would hit it hard with a double bladed, and they pulled us out of some tricky, Dad miscalculated situations when I needed some immediate oh-crap motor.
If I carried one double blade in a tandem I’d rather it be sized for the bow paddler’s use. I could manage in the stern with it, and maybe even bow backwards solo as well in some canoes.
Paddling solo, “center” seated, starting my stroke near the widest part of the hull, I use a low angle touring stroke, and like the asymmetrical, dihedral blade shape and 52cm x 16.5cm size - what Werner calls “mid-sized” - on the 260cm Camano. Our other favored composite doubles, a couple in the longest “standard” length 250’s, up to the (usually too lengthy) custom 270, are very close to those Camano blade specifications.
I also like the Werner’s 15 degree feather angle adjustability ferrule, although I am firmly settled on personal choices of either 0 or 30 feather right hand control, and never vary from those two adjustment settings. YMMV.
I have yet to find an adjustable length ferrule I liked. I don’t much like even a little button clip sticking up in the middle of the shaft; the ones with an actual lever sticking out are a no go for me, ‘cause, um, several reasons. It would have to be a non-clunky, near seamless length adjustment ferrule, and provide more than 10cm of adjustability to be worth it.
Higher end composite paddles have factory matched ferrules, and the ferrules are often serial/lot numbered. Sometimes the ferrules are numbered with a label that can wear down to illegibility, or fall off completely. It’s worth writing that number down; if the paddle ever needs factory repair have the matching ferrule number helps.
The evolution of canoeing double blades, from Shaw & Tenny’s classic (if fragile) Hereshoff blade design, to more recent canoe-length appropriate double blades, continues. From wood to aluminum/plastic/nylon to carbon fiber, and from fluttery flat blades to fatiguing symmetrical spoon blades to an asymmetrical, dihedral power face that require less of a clenched fist Hulk grip.
We have antique wood doubles with flat blades, and modern wood laminate, slightly spooned, asymmetrical doubles. Some of them are quite beautiful paddles, with different woods and striking grain patterns.
Much prettier to look at, but looks are only skin deep. The comparative weights, nope; nothing but carbon doubles for me when I’m lifting one end of a 250 or 260 double out of the water with every stroke thousands of times a day. Do the rough math, say a 2oz weight difference between paddles, and a day trip, call it a mere 8,000 strokes.
That’s a half a ton I’m not lifting during that day trip. Multiple that by a multi-day trip with a more heavily loaded canoe. That’s a giant nope nearly every time. “Nearly”, if we are on a low water rocky bottom day trip I may grab less expensive paddles to abuse. And soon enough wish I had those couple extra ounces gone.
In the hands of a less durable bow paddler those couple ounces become all the more important. I’m willing to do 12oz reps, but unlike a paddle those magically get lighter with every sip.
I once had a dear and distant friend visit for a day paddle. He worked for a kayak eco-tour operator, and was able to pro-deal a high end carbon double in custom canoe length. He did not bring that carbon featherweight, and I unthinkingly lent him a 260 Bending Branches Sun Shadow wood double. Not a beast in terms of weight, we had a lotta happy miles on that double blade.
He was carbon fiber spoiled, the few extra ounces nearly killed him. After a hundred yards he was fifty yards behind, and b*tching up a storm. Someone (not me) had to trade paddles with him.
