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Gunwales

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So I just glued my inner gunwales in my shortened northwest merlin and was thinking of skipping the outter gunwales, at least until I use this boat as a mold for another composite boat. Would there be any harm in using it without any outter gunwale? My seat will be attached to cleats epoxyed to the hull, so there shouldn't be too much stress on the inner. Other than maybe a little more water splashing in, are there any drawbacks to this?
 

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It should be fine. There's a lot of marathon race canoes without outer gunwales or without any gunwales. A lot of the time gunwales are overbuilt anyway.

The Merlin is a pretty little canoe, I'm always suprised we don't see more of them built. Nice job on yours, looking forward to the composite version.
 
I agree you should be fine but I will never glue/epoxy a gunnell on again. Too much work if they need to be replaced.
 
I actually just finished a kayak, and without changing the block spacing on my strongback I ended up with a 14.5 ft merlin. My last merlin was just shy of 16 feet if I remember right but I had to sell it. It was an awesome handling solo canoe but i always wanted one a bit shorter for exploring the smaller creeks and rivers. Hopefully this one handles as well as the last one.
 
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She seems to work just fine without outwhales. Couldn't pass up a 60 degree day in February to get her wet.
 

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I know full well the urge to get a new canoe in the water !
Those gunnels are plenty strong !
I built the big brother to the Merlin, Bruce Kunz's 38spl. Which was designed for 12 1/2" form spacing.
A friend built it on 12" form spacings. I liked it soo much, I built one the same way. Still one of my favorite boats ! Great for smaller streams !

The only criticism I've heard about Bruce's Merlin was the racing style stems, making it hard to turn. If you built the NW Merlin, Dennis may have modified the stems.

I should have gotten out myself, as this nice weather is going to change back to Winter.

Jim
 
I agree you should be fine but I will never glue/epoxy a gunnell on again. Too much work if they need to be replaced.

Yes, gluing gunnels is messy and extra work, whether installing, or removing. But it's the best way I've found to make them last the longest.

If I didn't glue them on, I'd at least coat the hull side of the gunnels with epoxy, and let it cure, Watco or Spar varnish doesn't last

Moisture between the hull and gunnel is the real enemy. Still looking for a better removable seal than epoxy.

Jim
 
I did inwales only on one lightweight canoe I built. The one thing I don't like about it is that it's more difficult to lift the canoe without at least a little lip on the outside to grab onto. Not a big deal on mine since it weighs under 30 pounds but if it was a boat I was actually using on a regular basis and I needed to carry it often I'd want a little something on the outside for better grip.

Alan
 
I did inwales only on one lightweight canoe I built. The one thing I don't like about it is that it's more difficult to lift the canoe without at least a little lip on the outside to grab onto. Not a big deal on mine since it weighs under 30 pounds but if it was a boat I was actually using on a regular basis and I needed to carry it often I'd want a little something on the outside for better grip.

Alan

I noticed this yesterday when loading and unloading the canoe. I may add a thin outter just to make it easier to grab.
 
I noticed this yesterday when loading and unloading the canoe. I may add a thin outter just to make it easier to grab.

You could just put a short strip in the center to save weight, work, and materials.

Alan
 
Looks great !
Good to paddle it BEFORE you use it as a male mold !

How do you like it ?

Jim
 
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I added float tanks today. I think they look really nice. I'm thinking of adding some type of hatch for dry storage.
 

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agree, its beautiful and would probably leave the outters off myself if I planned another hull off it.
 
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