Is there a way to add texture on the bottom when glassing the inside
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glassing the inside
- Thread starter Pat
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Texture is already there....just don't cover it up with too much epoxy!
I've used some Interlux product, uhmmm, Intergrip. Added to any topcoat or resin. Really nothing more than glass micro beads.
I've used some Interlux product, uhmmm, Intergrip. Added to any topcoat or resin. Really nothing more than glass micro beads.
I agree with Stripperguy. Just don't add fill coats.
Somewhere I have some sort of gritty powder that was meant for adding traction to concrete floors with a clear finish. You mix it in with the finish before application. I used it once on a canoe interior with a filled weave when I was painting it. It worked fine.
Alan
Somewhere I have some sort of gritty powder that was meant for adding traction to concrete floors with a clear finish. You mix it in with the finish before application. I used it once on a canoe interior with a filled weave when I was painting it. It worked fine.
Alan
I used the Intergrip stuff when I painted the topside and cockpit of the sailboat I built.
Two coats of primer, two coats of Interlux paint, and then, after selective masking, two coats of the same paint with the non slip stuff added in
It gave a very comfortable, non slip surface, that was also easy to keep clean. This has held up well since 2004...
Have a look.
I still maintain that you just NOT fill the weave of the cloth on the inside...
Two coats of primer, two coats of Interlux paint, and then, after selective masking, two coats of the same paint with the non slip stuff added in
It gave a very comfortable, non slip surface, that was also easy to keep clean. This has held up well since 2004...
Have a look.
I still maintain that you just NOT fill the weave of the cloth on the inside...
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Yes, just do the wet-out and skip the fill coats. I suppose you could add traction when applying the spar but I doubt that you'll have to on a canoe.
As a counterpoint/dissenting opinion, I'd ask you to consider your use conditions. Many of the areas that I canoe have a very fine, gritty sand/silt combo. It sticks in every little dimple in that open weave, and you can't avoid tracking it into the canoe.
An alternative might be to use peel-ply, or its off-brand equivalent - a lightweight polyester satin such as is used in suit jacket linings. Discount aisle at local fabric stores. This stuff will wick your resin enough to fill the main weave, but when pulled off will leave a matte, grippy type of surface. Protecting it from UV without covering over the grippy might be tricky...
An alternative might be to use peel-ply, or its off-brand equivalent - a lightweight polyester satin such as is used in suit jacket linings. Discount aisle at local fabric stores. This stuff will wick your resin enough to fill the main weave, but when pulled off will leave a matte, grippy type of surface. Protecting it from UV without covering over the grippy might be tricky...
So still being new to this I have a lot to learn. If I only do a wet out and no fill coat will the glass not soak up water?
Fully wet out glass will be water-impervious, at least unless it gets bent enough to break some of the fibers away from the epoxy; Then you might get some weep holes. (This generally only happens when it gets hit hard enough to come close to delaminating things.)
Ideally, wet out glass (without the peel-ply method) will have just enough resin to coat each strand of the glass and no more. Under heavy magnification, it will look like a 3D carving of fibers - you will still see individual fibers in the surface texture.
Ideally, wet out glass (without the peel-ply method) will have just enough resin to coat each strand of the glass and no more. Under heavy magnification, it will look like a 3D carving of fibers - you will still see individual fibers in the surface texture.
Like sailsman said, the fiberglass will be fully saturated with resin and will not absorb any water. The fiberglass will not absorb any more resin when adding fill coats because it's already been saturated and sealed once the epoxy cured. All the fill coats do is make a smoother surface.
Alan
Alan
Thank you everyone.
