Can someone tell me what's the difference in G/Flex epoxy and the Flex Coat epoxy?
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G/Flax epoxy
- Thread starter rider1
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G Flex epoxy is a two part epoxy made by West Systems which is formulated to achieve a better bond with various plastic materials such as ABS and polyethylene.
I have not used any Flex Coat epoxy. Flex Coat appears to be a brand name of a company that sells a variety of epoxy products.
What are you wanting to epoxy?
I have not used any Flex Coat epoxy. Flex Coat appears to be a brand name of a company that sells a variety of epoxy products.
What are you wanting to epoxy?
I have a 1978 old town 20 ft. tripper that I bought off of Craigslist a few week ago for $140.00. I was going to fill some cracks in the bottom with some Flex coat 2 part epoxy that I had laying around, but was wondering if anyone had used it before. I know that G/flex is what is called for, but this is designed for graphite rods and is a flexible epoxy that might do the trick.
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If you already have it, go for it. G flex hasn't been around forever and canoes were patched just fine before it. I've seen some terrible patch jobs on rentals with who knows what. They don't leak and I don't complain. Just make sure you prep the surface right before you apply the epoxy.
G
Guest
Guest
I find G flex bonds surfaces that flex together better because it isn't as brittle as regular epoxy.
Turtle
Turtle
My experience has been the same. I have seen repairs done to Royalex canoes with conventional epoxy that looked good for quite some time and then suddenly the entire patch flaked off. I suspect compliance mismatch was the reason.
Having said that, I know plenty of people who have filled in cracks on Royalex boats with JB Weld, Gorilla Glue, and a variety of other products and have been happy with them.
Having said that, I know plenty of people who have filled in cracks on Royalex boats with JB Weld, Gorilla Glue, and a variety of other products and have been happy with them.
After reading these and a few more post on repairing Royalex canoes, I'd decided to go with the G/Flex. At least it is a true & tried fix. I think I'll feel safer sense it is a 11 inch crack that goes all the way through the middle of the hull. any tips well be appreciated.
G
Guest
Guest
What you need to know/read:
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/repairing-a-royalex-canoe-with-g-flex-epoxy/
Thanks for the info that's what I've been looking for! Now all I need, is to make myself cut this crack in my canoe bigger.
Get the West Systems G Flex kit that comes with unthickened epoxy and colloidal silica powder (650K). Don't worry that West Systems calls this the "Aluminum Boat Repair Kit". You can add silica powder (cab-o-sil) to the mixed epoxy to get the consistency you want. The tapered tip dental syringes are also very handy for dispensing mixed epoxy into cracks.
You are best off if you remove a little of the interior or exterior vinyl color layer off the Royalex immediately around the cracks. You need to gutter out the cracks to achieve an adequate bonding surface and make sure your epoxy gets down into the foam core of the crack. A Dremel with an appropriate grinding tip is very helpful for this but many tools will suffice such as a V-ended scraper, or even an old "church key" can opener with a sharpened tip.
West Systems recommends pretreating ABS by flame oxidizing the surface to be bonded with a hand-held propane torch, but notes that this step is "optional " for ABS (it is essential for polyethylene). If you do this be very careful to pass the flame tip over the cracked surface very quickly as the foam core especially is vulnerable to melting. The G Flex mixes one to one by volume and can be mixed by eye in very small volumes which is convenient. Mix the resin and hardener together and then stir in some silica powder to thicken it and create an "epoxy glue". I would go for a consistency about that of mayonnaise. Don't make it too thick to load into the dental syringe. You won't be able to draw the thickened epoxy up through the tip of the syringe. Take out the plunger, plug the syringe tip, and pour the mixture into the open end. Loosely put the plunger in the syringe barrel, invert the syringe and allow the air bubble to make its way up toward the tip end, then expel the air.
In order to completely fill cracks extending into the foam core usually requires multiple applications as the mixed epoxy will settle into the interstices of the foam core. If you overfill the cracks, the cured epoxy can be easily sanded down flush. Once the epoxy is fully cured, it is best to cover it with paint to protect it from UV degradation.
You are best off if you remove a little of the interior or exterior vinyl color layer off the Royalex immediately around the cracks. You need to gutter out the cracks to achieve an adequate bonding surface and make sure your epoxy gets down into the foam core of the crack. A Dremel with an appropriate grinding tip is very helpful for this but many tools will suffice such as a V-ended scraper, or even an old "church key" can opener with a sharpened tip.
West Systems recommends pretreating ABS by flame oxidizing the surface to be bonded with a hand-held propane torch, but notes that this step is "optional " for ABS (it is essential for polyethylene). If you do this be very careful to pass the flame tip over the cracked surface very quickly as the foam core especially is vulnerable to melting. The G Flex mixes one to one by volume and can be mixed by eye in very small volumes which is convenient. Mix the resin and hardener together and then stir in some silica powder to thicken it and create an "epoxy glue". I would go for a consistency about that of mayonnaise. Don't make it too thick to load into the dental syringe. You won't be able to draw the thickened epoxy up through the tip of the syringe. Take out the plunger, plug the syringe tip, and pour the mixture into the open end. Loosely put the plunger in the syringe barrel, invert the syringe and allow the air bubble to make its way up toward the tip end, then expel the air.
In order to completely fill cracks extending into the foam core usually requires multiple applications as the mixed epoxy will settle into the interstices of the foam core. If you overfill the cracks, the cured epoxy can be easily sanded down flush. Once the epoxy is fully cured, it is best to cover it with paint to protect it from UV degradation.
