Canoe foot brace - side pegs or cross bar?

[Moonman]

Hi guys,

I haven’t posted here in quite a while, although I do follow along on other threads occasionally. A question for foot brace users, do you prefer a bar set up, or just individual side pegs/braces? Seems to me that if you dialed in the location of side pegs you could just glue them to the hull and dispense with sliders for adjusting etc….just wondering what people think of this approach as I will be starting a solo build (leaning towards Ashes Solo Day) this spring.

Thanks and merry Christmas,

Moonman.

 

[Nick Pending]

Hi guys,

I haven’t posted here in quite a while, although I do follow along on other threads occasionally. A question for foot brace users, do you prefer a bar set up, or just individual side pegs/braces? Seems to me that if you dialed in the location of side pegs you could just glue them to the hull and dispense with sliders for adjusting etc….just wondering what people think of this approach as I will be starting a solo build (leaning towards Ashes Solo Day) this spring.

Thanks and merry Christmas,

Moonman.

If you want to keep weight down, your described glued-in side pegs would be the lightest. If you want some versatility, though with a little more weight, the crossbar with adjustments for fore and aft would be better as they can be adjusted along the length of the hull for different paddlers as well as allow foot placement anywhere along the width of the hull rather than just in the bilge. Metal crossbars can be noisy in transportation, so I bungie cord mine to keep the noise down when walking on a portage or riding the racks on the car. There are likely more scenarios possible. Other builders here can likely come up with some.

 

[Alan Gage]

Cross bar all the way for me. I've never used foot pegs in a canoe but it seems like they would be more restrictive. With the bar I can put my feet in any location. Often I'll tuck one leg under and leave one on the bar. In this scenario I put the one foot in the center of the bar.

 

[Marten]

I glued in a set of adjustable foot pegs for a friend. I put pressure mid rail so it had contact on the curved side of the Wee Lassie. After hardening it has held fine. I prefer a crossbar so I can vary leg position easily.

 

[Steve in Idaho]

I prefer a bar, but I can live with pegs.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

I strongly prefer a foot bar in a canoe. It allows me to position my feet in the center, or both skewed to one side as I heel the canoe, or anywhere I want. One supposed advantage of side-mounted foot pegs is that they open up room for packs. I've always managed to work around the bar with packing, and, if necessary, my sliding aluminum Wenonah foot bar is easily removable from the tracks (and doesn't rattle). Also, I store some extra seating bolts and nuts inside the bar.

 

[Tryin']

Bar for me as well. The flexibility in foot position is worth the sacrifice in pack placement restrictions.

 

[tketcham]

The foot brace cross bar is typically located where I like to put my feet anyway so installing foot pegs instead of a bar doesn't free up much space because I'll still want to put my feet there. Otherwise it sounds like the pegs are mitigation for limited cargo capacity, which can be a good reason to use them if that's what you have to do.

 

[Cruiser]

For the Ashes Solo, pack location likely isn't a concern ... with the max width amidship, there won't be much wiggle room in that area.

If you haven't used foot bracing in the past, you won't have preconceptions about what you like and don't like, so either is going to suit you. I sort of view this like epoxy, people tend to stay with the one they start with (at least for a few projects) ... both styles work, both are available ...

I started with the foot pegs, but I really don't see why there would be much operation difference in the chosen canoe .... I think I would look into what is available and see if anything tickles your fancy. If weight is part of your build consideration, make sure it is included into the decision.

Brian

 

[Roybrew]

I put the foot pegs in mine. I think they are a little more out of the way then a cross brace. I used T nuts on the back side of a strip of cherry, and epoxied that to the inside of the hull. I had to cut, and grind, and file, the ends of the T nuts so they didn't poke through the strip of wood. Then I had to cut the bolts shorter, so they would pull the rail to the wood strip and not bottom out against the full.

They are pretty much out of the way, and I can slide the foot pegs off if I need to.



Roy

 

[Moonman]

Thanks guys for your input. Lots to consider. I’ve never used any kind of foot brace in the past so as Cruiser says, I won’t have a biased preference. I won’t start building till spring do lots of time to ponder. But still enjoying outfitting this boat in my mind. I’ve also been thinking about the seat and the use of some kind of back support. Seems many people get sore lower backs with the pack boat type lowered seats but I’m guessing that’s more leg extension and angle more than anything. But I have some ideas for a seat on cleats that I can move back and forth a few inches for trim reasons so if anyone has ever built a sliding seat I’d love to hear what you did.

Thanks again guys.

Moonman.

 

[Alan Gage]

if anyone has ever built a sliding seat I’d love to hear what you did.

I build all mine as a floor mounted pedestal on aluminum rails. It's easy to slide fore/aft on the fly and I can use it sitting or kneeling.

Alan

 

[Cruiser]

I built the first one with adjustable seats, took them out after the first season. I find it is easier to adjust trim by moving the gear a little, once you know where your packs go, trim isn't much of an issue IMO.

 

[snapper]

I prefer using a cross bar but have paddled small solo boats with foot pegs similar to what you'd find in some kayaks. My only issue with some cross bar set-ups is they will move when I really push on them. It's rare, and not usually a big deal that puts me out of paddling rhythm, but it still catches me off guard when it happens. This issue can be eliminated with bars that fit into slots cut into the corresponding rails; like what I had years ago in my We-No-Nah and Sawyer canoes.

That's all for now. Take care and until next time....be well.

snapper

 

[boy&hisdogs]

To me having some kind of foot brace makes a world of difference in the feeling of stability and control over the boat. I wouldn't own a boat without it.

I highly prefer a plain bar, no padding or contours or anything. I like to brace my feet in the junction were the bar meets the side of the canoe, but I also like that I can shift my feet around anywhere I want them.

Big foot pegs would be a close second place, and it does clear up some room on the floor.

The only thing that I strongly dislike is those indents in the side of a SOT kayak that are only half as wide as my feet are. I'm always slipping off and its more frustrating than having nothing at all. But that's not a problem in a canoe as far as I know.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

I've put foam pipe insulation on my Wenonah black aluminum foot bar. It makes it nice and comfy to paddle with thin booties or even bare feet. It also functions as a cushion for my spare paddle. No clunking when putting it on the bottom or rattling against the metal bar.

 

[Simuliumvenustum]

I have two canoes with foot bars and three with kayak-style foot pegs. I prefer the foot bars because they allow for more versatility in foot placement. I like Glenn's idea of placing foam pipe insulation on the foot bar. I will have to try it.

 

[Moonman]

Okay guys thank you, I think I’m zeroing in on an approach for my build. One question though, with either bars or pegs, assuming you are the only person using the boat, are any of you moving your bars/pegs at all (closer to or further away from your body) once you have them in a spot you like? For example different paddling effort level or water conditions? Or do you just leave them once you’ve found your sweet spot.

Thanks!

Moonman.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

assuming you are the only person using the boat, are any of you moving your bars/pegs at all (closer to or further away from your body) once you have them in a spot you like? For example different paddling effort level or water conditions? Or do you just leave them once you’ve found your sweet spot.

I have a bar in my SRT canoe and pegs in my three sea kayaks, and am the only one who has ever used any of those boats. I don't ever recall moving the bar/pegs once set up.

I also have toe blocks/pegs behind the saddles in my four whitewater canoes and have never re-positioned any of them either. On two of those boats the toe blocks can't be moved because they are made of minicell foam glued to the bottom of the hull. That's actually an easy way to put side foot blocks in a flat water canoe: glue minicell foam blocks to the sides at the right distance and height from the seat. Use contact cement and they can be removed or replaced if necessary.

 

[Alan Gage]

I make mine adjustable because my seat is adjustable. Most of the time the seat remains stationary but sometimes I move it to adjust trim because of load or wind conditions. Also in case someone else paddles the boat for fun or I decide to sell it.

Alan