Canadian HWY 389 and 510 to the East

[Keeled Over]

Hi folks,

Not really canoe related so I hope this is cool. I am planning another loop into Canada, this time to the east. Cutting this off at a month - 6 weeks is a long time to live in a mini-van.

I am interested in the scenic and if possible fishing opportunities along this stretch. From what I am seeing it looks very similar - at least until you start getting to the coast - to the same landscape I saw driving to Thunder Bay and above the plains in the Yukon, all of which looked pretty much like what I have here in NY. Any thoughts on compelling reasons to make this drive, or should I try another route? I can take my 4x4 but would rather not, but if it makes sense due to unending scenic beauty I can do it.

If this looks pretty similar to what I have seen, what other route would you recommend? Thinking about just doing NF and LB on this swing and tackling PEI and NS on another.

Thank you!

If anybody wanted to try this van rental thing book early and lock it in. I will be booking shortly for a Sept trip. Rental costs will almost double as spring approaches.

 

[memaquay]

That's quite a drive you have planned, I have no advice other than take lots of food and make sure the spare tire is good.

 

[Alan Gage]

I know nothing about the route but I did live in a minivan for a few months straight and it went on lots of other multi-week road trips. It was great!

I removed all the rear seats and setup a cheap folding cot. It needed a sleeping pad on top of it for good comfort and warmth. Since the cot is raised off the ground there was room for storage underneath.

I used 3 stackable totes with drawers. The top 2 held my clothes and the bottom was for tools and random stuff The bottom one, being heavy because of tools, kept the stack from ever tipping over. I put strips of velcro on the tops/bottoms to hold them together.

I found it to be a very comfortable arrangement and I had plenty of room for everything. I traveled with more stuff back then and my stuff wasn't as nice (bulkier) but it all fit quite well.

 

[Keeled Over]

Thanks Alan,

I used a a similar system but yours sounds more elegant. The Chrysler had the seats that folded into the floor which was perfect. I put 5 milk crates in a dice pattern, loaded gear in them and then put rods and all underneath with soft stuff. 6' x 4' plywood above that. It was a bit crowded cause I had the northern gear in there but for just car camping it worked great. A couple of times I woke up unsure of where I was and had an epic struggle with one of the crates, but using Siri's "turn on torch" command fixed that. I did see two people that used your exact drawer systems above, and they both explained after their initial trip they got the drawers!. Chick doesn't know it yet, but one of hers in coming with me!

 

[Keeled Over]

That's quite a drive you have planned, I have no advice other than take lots of food and make sure the spare tire is good.

After my Denali experience I will pull the agent over the counter and walk them to the car with me to verify the spare. I brought 10 freeze dried meals as back-up on the other trip but only ate three of them - figured I might log a couple boon-docking days - and I will do the same on this one. In Canada where I was they have these small streams, or gulch as some signs said, where the bridge seemed about a mile above the gulch. Looking over the edge made me almost ill, but it reminded me extra food was huge. Roll down one of those and I'm not sure my inReach would ever sync up. All in all, Canada made me a very cautious driver. And the frost heaves - holy crap!

 

[recped]

Hi folks,

Not really canoe related so I hope this is cool. I am planning another loop into Canada, this time to the east. Cutting this off at a month - 6 weeks is a long time to live in a mini-van.

I am interested in the scenic and if possible fishing opportunities along this stretch. From what I am seeing it looks very similar - at least until you start getting to the coast - to the same landscape I saw driving to Thunder Bay and above the plains in the Yukon, all of which looked pretty much like what I have here in NY. Any thoughts on compelling reasons to make this drive, or should I try another route? I can take my 4x4 but would rather not, but if it makes sense due to unending scenic beauty I can do it.

If this looks pretty similar to what I have seen, what other route would you recommend? Thinking about just doing NF and LB on this swing and tackling PEI and NS on another.

Thank you!

If anybody wanted to try this van rental thing book early and lock it in. I will be booking shortly for a Sept trip. Rental costs will almost double as spring approaches.

I've been to Labrador City 4 times (or 5?), the furthest I've been on Hwy 510 is Churchill Falls.

Hwy 389 I a great drive.....for the SCENERY! The road itself is rough, not as bad as it was 20 years ago when I made my first trip. There is construction is some areas, all part of 500 Million Dollar upgrade plan that started 10 years ago. The road from Baie Comeau to the Manic-5 dam is all paved, they are working on that section to remove many of the twist & turns and up & downs. North of Manic-5 there are long sections of gravel, when I was there in 2022 they were working on culverts and some bridges, all part of the long term plan to pave the entire route. The last section from the Fire Lake mine to Fermont is the worst, loose gravel that twists and turns crossing the rail line used by the mines 13 times, on my return trip in 2022 shortly after I started a big truck tossed a rock which cracked my windshield, further along I developed a leak from my fuel tank (a nightmare story I will write up one day!). This was the only time I had any vehicle issues.

In 2007 I only went as far as Lab City (doing a trip on the Pekans/Moisie), checked out the first little bit of #510 which at that time was all gravel all the way to Happy Valley. in 2018 when I was headed to the Smallwood Reservoir for my George river trip the entire highway had been paved (work done in 2012 - 2015).

I have not been to the Yukon, Thunder Bay many times, I wouldn't say that it's similar to the T-Bay area but it is definitely scenic and a lot more fun than the crowded Trans-Canada Hwy (the highway in terms of scenic qualities was MUCH better in the early 60's even if the road itself was narrow and up/down, twist/turn).

I don't fish much but there are tons of opportunities, If you will have a canoe with you then the opportunities are endless.

There is lots of online info, it's very popular with the motorcycle crowd. There is some good info (somewhat dated) at this link:

Quebec Highway 389 - A highway guide

Quebec Highway 389

alavigne.net

A lot of locals go up to the Smallwood Reservoir control structures (Gabbro & Lobstick) to fish, the road into those is rough, how rough depends partially on recent weather, in 2018 it was full of potholes so very slow going, in 2022 it was in great shape. There is also a road along the east side of the Smallwood, I've never been on that road but I'm sure it worth the effort for fishing, camping and solitude

On #389 there are quite a few places where you can get off the main road for camping, a few especially nice places north of Manic-5, Nothing good between Fire Lake and Lab City. At Lab City you can camp at the Duley Lake trailer park, good if you are staying in the Lab City area. Lab City is good for resupply, there are grocery stores, Canadian Tire, Wal-Mart etc. (and at least 3 Pot Shops!). Once you leave Lab City there are tons of places along #510 where you can pull over and camp, a few beside a small lake or creek.

If you have a boat I would recommend stopping at the Manic-5 reservoir for a few days, it's extremely scenic although it can be dangerous for paddling given the immense size. Supposed to be giant fish there but reports I've read are mixed.

If you enjoy long road trips I don't think you will be disappointed, one day I will take the complete drive on #510 all the way to Blanc Sablon and then the ferry to Nfld.

As you would expect, extra fuel, extra spare tires are highly recommended! Don't forget the bug juice and maybe a screen shelter, it's a two season area, Winter & Bug season, the locals mainly travel by snowmobile and stay home when there is no snow.

 

[Robin]

I had plans to do this trip last spring, hoping to see icebergs when I got to the NL coast. A cold spring up there changed my plans to nw Ontario.
The iOverlander app was a big help with planning boondocking campsites.
If you rent a vehicle what’s the deal with car topping a canoe? Just don’t ask?
I didn’t know about the rates changing, so if you reserve a vehicle in February for a May or June trip, do they give you winter rates even if the current spring rates are higher? Do you have to pay in full in advance or just reserve at winter rates?

 

[Keeled Over]

I had plans to do this trip last spring, hoping to see icebergs when I got to the NL coast. A cold spring up there changed my plans to nw Ontario.
The iOverlander app was a big help with planning boondocking campsites.
If you rent a vehicle what’s the deal with car topping a canoe? Just don’t ask?
I didn’t know about the rates changing, so if you reserve a vehicle in February for a May or June trip, do they give you winter rates even if the current spring rates are higher? Do you have to pay in full in advance or just reserve at winter rates?

Hi Robin, yes it is a no tell situation for that canoe. I have rented cars for years for work and they seem to be less interested in damage these past few years. Scratches up to the length of a dollar bill, dents the size of a quarter are things I have been told.

When I locked in my rental they honored the winter price, and I didn't have to pay till I picked up. Could cancel at any time with no penalty. It all went well. Now - one thing to look at. Some car rental companies have issues with driving up north and specifically tell you not to drive certain roads. I have never faced this but have seen the ad's relating to this. Others will rent you an "approved" car - 4x4 etc. I don't really get into details with the rental people and they really don't seem to care. Most people that canoe have had their share of back roads driving. Take it slow and run it through a car wash. And watch out for bison. (you already knew that!)

 

[Keeled Over]

I've been to Labrador City 4 times (or 5?), the furthest I've been on Hwy 510 is Churchill Falls.

Hwy 389 I a great drive.....for the SCENERY! The road itself is rough, not as bad as it was 20 years ago when I made my first trip. There is construction is some areas, all part of 500 Million Dollar upgrade plan that started 10 years ago. The road from Baie Comeau to the Manic-5 dam is all paved, they are working on that section to remove many of the twist & turns and up & downs. North of Manic-5 there are long sections of gravel, when I was there in 2022 they were working on culverts and some bridges, all part of the long term plan to pave the entire route. The last section from the Fire Lake mine to Fermont is the worst, loose gravel that twists and turns crossing the rail line used by the mines 13 times, on my return trip in 2022 shortly after I started a big truck tossed a rock which cracked my windshield, further along I developed a leak from my fuel tank (a nightmare story I will write up one day!). This was the only time I had any vehicle issues.

In 2007 I only went as far as Lab City (doing a trip on the Pekans/Moisie), checked out the first little bit of #510 which at that time was all gravel all the way to Happy Valley. in 2018 when I was headed to the Smallwood Reservoir for my George river trip the entire highway had been paved (work done in 2012 - 2015).

I have not been to the Yukon, Thunder Bay many times, I wouldn't say that it's similar to the T-Bay area but it is definitely scenic and a lot more fun than the crowded Trans-Canada Hwy (the highway in terms of scenic qualities was MUCH better in the early 60's even if the road itself was narrow and up/down, twist/turn).

I don't fish much but there are tons of opportunities, If you will have a canoe with you then the opportunities are endless.

There is lots of online info, it's very popular with the motorcycle crowd. There is some good info (somewhat dated) at this link:

Quebec Highway 389 - A highway guide

Quebec Highway 389

alavigne.net

A lot of locals go up to the Smallwood Reservoir control structures (Gabbro & Lobstick) to fish, the road into those is rough, how rough depends partially on recent weather, in 2018 it was full of potholes so very slow going, in 2022 it was in great shape. There is also a road along the east side of the Smallwood, I've never been on that road but I'm sure it worth the effort for fishing, camping and solitude

On #389 there are quite a few places where you can get off the main road for camping, a few especially nice places north of Manic-5, Nothing good between Fire Lake and Lab City. At Lab City you can camp at the Duley Lake trailer park, good if you are staying in the Lab City area. Lab City is good for resupply, there are grocery stores, Canadian Tire, Wal-Mart etc. (and at least 3 Pot Shops!). Once you leave Lab City there are tons of places along #510 where you can pull over and camp, a few beside a small lake or creek.

If you have a boat I would recommend stopping at the Manic-5 reservoir for a few days, it's extremely scenic although it can be dangerous for paddling given the immense size. Supposed to be giant fish there but reports I've read are mixed.

If you enjoy long road trips I don't think you will be disappointed, one day I will take the complete drive on #510 all the way to Blanc Sablon and then the ferry to Nfld.

As you would expect, extra fuel, extra spare tires are highly recommended! Don't forget the bug juice and maybe a screen shelter, it's a two season area, Winter & Bug season, the locals mainly travel by snowmobile and stay home when there is no snow.

recped, as usual you are an encyclopedia of information - never fail to impress. Thank you very much for the above. Whether known or not by him, his knowledge has helped me plan trips and has had a big impact on some equipment purchases I have made. I appreciate the knowledge and the TIME you spend putting this together!! As usual, your words will be in my trip folder.

 

[yellowcanoe]

Been very absent. But yes we did tow a 26 foot trailer from Baie Comeau to Blanc Sablon in 2023 and will do it again next summer. This year forest fires made the route impractical so we took the ferry from North Sydney to Port aux Basques. There are two sections of 389 that are unpaved and they are not the most worrisome ones. From Baie Comeau to Manic 5 the road is windy and gains a lot of elevation ( all those dams are a clue). Logging trucks go as fast as they want to and you have to pay attention to your a$$. There are services at Manic 5 like motel gas restaurant and tours. Then the road is gravel to Relais Gabriel. Try NOT to have to fuel there. We paid 2.45 a litre! We had several spare jerry cans but had not filled them ( dope slap). That leg showed us how unappealing to me Lac Manoucougan is. After Relais Gabriel paved to Fermont where mining starts in earnest. The stretch from Fermont to Mont Wright is abysmal with potholes and runs next to the trains that look like they will fall on you. It did not help that it was pouring rain and we were towing a trailer.. Mudbogging anyone? Wer found the visitor center in Lab City and camped there. Next day we went to Happy Valley Goose Bay with a fuel stop in Churchill Falls. We made a feeble attempty to view Smallwood Reservoir. That fuel stop is not always open but has good coffee. Camped in Happy Valley Goose Bay in an abandoned Provincial Park on the Northwest River Road ( do visit that town.. has an outstanding museum re the Native cultures) The longest fuel less stretch was from HV-GB some 260 miles. We again had a trailer and did self fuel at a river crossing. Ye in cars will do better than our 12 mpg. The entire stretch of the TransLabrador 510 is paved. You can sand pit camp and there are eight or nine pullovers in the 700 miles. However they are not rest stops and I found them disgusting. TP and feces. There are no facilities. The Sand pits are cleaner.
Oh lets talk bugs. We went in August and yes the blackflies are out then. We talked to some natives about hiking and they said in Sept in Labrador you have a good week. Pinware Provincial Park is magnificent. We shopped in L'Anse au Loup and got fresh fish and.....avocados? Yes avocados!
We were challenged on 510 by unmoving moose and slightly more amenable caribou. I wish the highways at home were as well surfaced. However 389 not a real problem as it was WAY better than North Maine Woods roads usually are. And those are what we are used to. The Super IGA in Baie Comeau is probably the best supermarket I have ever been in.
Warning.. never have to take a poop on the Tadoussac ferry. Hubby did and he had to run after me off the ferry ! Its a short ferry!

We also used Ioverlander and got supplemetal info at the Lab City info center. It shows you where you can camp as well as electric or water service

 

[Keeled Over]

Been very absent. But yes we did tow a 26 foot trailer from Baie Comeau to Blanc Sablon in 2023 and will do it again next summer. This year forest fires made the route impractical so we took the ferry from North Sydney to Port aux Basques. There are two sections of 389 that are unpaved and they are not the most worrisome ones. From Baie Comeau to Manic 5 the road is windy and gains a lot of elevation ( all those dams are a clue). Logging trucks go as fast as they want to and you have to pay attention to your a$$. There are services at Manic 5 like motel gas restaurant and tours. Then the road is gravel to Relais Gabriel. Try NOT to have to fuel there. We paid 2.45 a litre! We had several spare jerry cans but had not filled them ( dope slap). That leg showed us how unappealing to me Lac Manoucougan is. After Relais Gabriel paved to Fermont where mining starts in earnest. The stretch from Fermont to Mont Wright is abysmal with potholes and runs next to the trains that look like they will fall on you. It did not help that it was pouring rain and we were towing a trailer.. Mudbogging anyone? Wer found the visitor center in Lab City and camped there. Next day we went to Happy Valley Goose Bay with a fuel stop in Churchill Falls. We made a feeble attempty to view Smallwood Reservoir. That fuel stop is not always open but has good coffee. Camped in Happy Valley Goose Bay in an abandoned Provincial Park on the Northwest River Road ( do visit that town.. has an outstanding museum re the Native cultures) The longest fuel less stretch was from HV-GB some 260 miles. We again had a trailer and did self fuel at a river crossing. Ye in cars will do better than our 12 mpg. The entire stretch of the TransLabrador 510 is paved. You can sand pit camp and there are eight or nine pullovers in the 700 miles. However they are not rest stops and I found them disgusting. TP and feces. There are no facilities. The Sand pits are cleaner.
Oh lets talk bugs. We went in August and yes the blackflies are out then. We talked to some natives about hiking and they said in Sept in Labrador you have a good week. Pinware Provincial Park is magnificent. We shopped in L'Anse au Loup and got fresh fish and.....avocados? Yes avocados!
We were challenged on 510 by unmoving moose and slightly more amenable caribou. I wish the highways at home were as well surfaced. However 389 not a real problem as it was WAY better than North Maine Woods roads usually are. And those are what we are used to. The Super IGA in Baie Comeau is probably the best supermarket I have ever been in.
Warning.. never have to take a poop on the Tadoussac ferry. Hubby did and he had to run after me off the ferry ! Its a short ferry!

We also used Ioverlander and got supplemetal info at the Lab City info center. It shows you where you can camp as well as electric or water service

Ah, another one of my "take it as gospel" contributors. Thank you very much YC You have been missed. For the new folks, you will soon see this is the best site in the world for detail info. Of all the activities I do no other website has members that provide this level of information. There is a certain level of comfort provided when you depart with this detail in hand.