Bead and cove video.

[Jim Dodd]

[video]http://vid1272.photobucket.com/albums/y390/JimDodd/MVI_0296_zpszdhnxiqk.mp4[/video] I must apologize for the alien look a like(Me)starring in this clip. You can plainly see why Mom, didn't send me to Holly Wood
A gust of wind made short this video.
Also a pic of my Table setup.

Jim

 

[Jim Dodd]

One more pic of my table setup.

Jim

 

[Canotrouge]

Interesting. I always thought that the bit was supposed to be in the fence and protruding only what you need to make the cut, so the only bit of spinning cutter is the part making the cut and the rest is "safe" behind the fence!?!?! Look like it work just fine the way you do it though!!

 

[Boatman53]

Yes it is safer with the bit buried in the fence. This setup does have the advantage of sizing everything uniformly. Too dangerous a setup for my shop however. Feather boards are a must to avoid projectiles.
Jim

 

[Jim Dodd]

Yes it is safer with the bit buried in the fence. This setup does have the advantage of sizing everything uniformly. Too dangerous a setup for my shop however. Feather boards are a must to avoid projectiles.
Jim

Jim

This set up does produce very uniform results. It eliminates the need to plane my planks to a uniform thickness before beading and coving.

As for the danger issue, cedar is a soft wood, and the strips are 1/4" thick.Those carbide bits cut through it like butter ! The feather boards take full control of that strip, and I've never had a problem. I've had more trouble trying to hand feed wood through a table saw, in which I feel is much more dangerous !

Again To each his own ! But I feel this is quite safe.

Jim

 

[Boatman53]

Jim you have many boats to your credit and I'm sure you have taken every precaution, clearly I'm not saying it can't be done. What I want to stress is that any time the wood is trapped between the blade (saw or router) and the fence, it has the potential for bad things to happen. I just don't want someone with real beginner skills to be of the mindset that he saw it set up that way and everything is safe. If the feather boards are not set up correctly or omitted all together (don't want to take the time to build them, or it's just one board I don't want to take the time to set everything up etc) they could be in trouble. You are doing an unsafe procedure safely and with full knowledge of the dangers, but others might know. A strip built canoe was the first thing I built, years after high school shop. The things I did then because I just didn't know, scares me now when I think about it. I've been a boatbuilder professionally now for thirty years and had some close calls so I know how quick bad things can happen. That's all I'm trying to say.
Carry on, I enjoy and look forward to all your posts.
Jim

 

[Jim Dodd]

I understand where you are coming from, and Yes ! Anyone who feels this is an unsafe method, please do not do it this way.

A table saw is set up to run a board between the blade and a fence. When the wood is pinched between the fence and the blade,(which it often does) without feather boards securing it, you have a much more dangerous situation. Yeah Tablesaws still scare me !

Again Be Safe ! Wear protective gear ! And if my method scares you, find another way.

Thanks Jim ! I respect what you are saying !

Jim

 

[madmike]

As a pro cabinetmaker of 25 years, I think this is a good, stable, and safe, set up. I did have to look twice though....

 

[Mihun09]

So, was it cold that day you did the video? It doesn't look much like the weather here is going to favour my bead and coving with a nice day so I may run them tomorrow when it will finally be sunny and a high of 38F. Most of my processing needs to be done outside since I lack the interior length to run anything longer than 10 feet.That will work fine when this batch of strips runs out and I need 10 foot or less to close in the bottom.

I would have thought with the amount of strippers you make you would have commercially available feather boards.

 

[Jim Dodd]

.

I would have thought with the amount of strippers you make you would have commercially available feather boards.

I've always, mostly by necessity, been a DIY kind a guy. I make what I can, buy what I can't.
I should post a pick of my first bead and cove set up. It was made from an old Singer sewing machine base, the treadle kind, and a kitchen sink counter top cut out. Two $20 clearance Craftsman routers, and cheap carbide bits. It still works and produces great strips.

 

[Jim Dodd]

So, was it cold that day you did the video?

It was cool, just the way I like it, when I have to gear up with all the protection.

 

[sweeper]

Scrap FB at that length are far easier to make then find and cost less. I like my FB over commercial ones especially for a specific job like Jim's.

 

[Jim Dodd]

I should post a pick of my first bead and cove set up. It was made from an old Singer sewing machine base, the treadle kind, and a kitchen sink counter top cut out. Two $20 clearance Craftsman routers, and cheap carbide bits. It still works and produces great strips.

Here's a pic. I've greatly improved my set up. Again this crude set up worked great.
Originally I was going to run both routers simultaneously. But it required some fancy feather boarding and delicate adjustment. I found it much easier to do one edge at a time.

I also had infeed, and outfeed extensions, that I've done away with.

Jim

 

[Jim Dodd]

Purchased a set of 1/2" shank 1/4" bead and cove bits on Ebay for less than $20 a set.
They worked great.
For those looking to build this Spring !

Jim