Advice on repairing/maintenance of fibreglass canoe hull

[PhilCanoe]

Hello, new user and new canoe enthusiast here.

Yesterday I bought a second hand fibreglass canoe. My aim is to take out my wife and son on short day trips on tranquil waters for a bit of a paddle. The rest of the time the canoe will be stored at my house under a roof (dry).

I'll start by saying I know basically nothing about maintenance of a canoe and I'm not very knowledgeable about DIY.

The canoe I bought is a 16ft fibreglass Roseco (Australian manufactured) canoe built around 1985. I took it out on the water today and it was fantastic. The fibreglass shell looks to be in great condition, however there is some damage to the gel coat (I think that's what it is?) on the hull, and some spider cracks and splintering on the inside. I am currently concerned about the hull - the inside can wait. I am looking to get the hull fixed up for as cheaply as possible.

Here is the canoe with my son looking very happy about it:

http://imgur.com/gEbIdKJ

There are some cracks, holes and splinters on the hull. Here are some pics:
http://imgur.com/tSH8bZh
http://imgur.com/sBTgZ34
http://imgur.com/SgU2Lke
http://imgur.com/4w13yXn
http://imgur.com/ACQGIJd
http://imgur.com/nmkXBzx
http://imgur.com/4BKLQjP
http://imgur.com/6kitwbu
http://imgur.com/WFPtBn6
http://imgur.com/5RS1tgb
http://imgur.com/0PAC6r3
http://imgur.com/b7HXk1X
http://imgur.com/EBLvWej
http://imgur.com/VOqQ6ku

There are also these small nicks on the bottom, I think they may be from stones?
http://imgur.com/Sh7jaqu

Firstly, I think that this damage would not really effect the use of my canoe, and I could leave them if I wanted? If someone could clarify that would be great.

However, I am keen to fix the hull up, as I think it would look nicer and perhaps last longer, I'm not sure.
From some googling and reading forums, here is what I think I should do:

1) For the holes and larger cracks I should fill them with Epoxy Putty (https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-...putty_p1235266) I could use this but I think it is expensive: http://3mmarine.com/3m-marine-premium-filler-46006.html

2) For the spider cracks I can ignore them or perhaps use this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MagicEzy-...N0v7HGK2CZ7Q0Q

3) I could re-do the gel coat, however that would be a lot of work and expensive, and probably beyond my skill level. The majority of the coat is still looking good, so instead I think I should paint the hull with a marine paint like Rustoleum: http://www.rustoleum.com.au/product-.../topside-paint I've read that you should use topside paint on Canoes as they are not in the water long enough to require underside paint. Is that correct? One person said that you can just use enamel paint on canoes to save money? Something like this: https://www.bunnings.com.au/white-kn...paint_p1567132 I think I might go wit this to save money.

Some advice from you canoe pros would be appreciated!

Thanks

Phil

 

[frozentripper]

Yes, you can use ordinary exterior enamels for canoes if you want to reduce costs... floor and porch paint has given good results and durable (in Ontario, Rona's epoxy-fortified porch enamel, about $10-15. for 900 ml about a quart). This can be tinted in-store to the exact color you want. Or use the spray cans of Rustoleum, Tremclad.... I haven't tried these myself.

My way of filling in scratches, cracks and nicks and then painting....

- wash canoe with detergent and rinse well to remove any oil and dirt.

- acetone can be used further clean out scratches and pits, or the entire hull, but I've left this out at times and still had good adhesion.

- sand entire hull, remove all gloss so that the new paint will bond well.

- lightly sand the inside of any larger scratches and pits but do not sand too deep to prevent fuzzing.

- fill scratches, cracks and pits with thickened epoxy... use microfibers or colloidal silica to thicken, or go with very fine wood sanding dust or talcum powder to save $$$. I've used the last two and been OK but the first two will probably be stronger. See vid on thickening epoxy, peanut butter thickness will work for the larger spaces... work the thickened epoxy into the gaps with a knife or spatula of some kind, then flatten off the surface unevenness to smooth fair with a plastic squeegee, otherwise sanding off the excess epoxy will be a time-consuming pain.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmMy8wG8xn4

- let the thickened epoxy cure hard, then sand all gloss off again and smooth so the paint will have some "tooth" to bond onto.

- wipe or wash off dust, dry and paint... a roller gives good results with enamel and leaves a pebbly semi-gloss which is nice. Spray paint can be super glossy if you've been especially keen on getting the hull dead smooth, but if there are imperfections the gloss finish will highlight them in the reflections.

- dry and get on the water to start scratching up the canoe again... good luck.

 

[Guest]

a roller gives good results with enamel and leaves a pebbly semi-gloss which is nice.

If you want to avoid the pebbly or orange peel finish left by a roller you can “tip out” the epoxy or paint (or varnish or urethane, etc) with a brush immediately after application.

I use foam rollers and foam brushes for this, first rolling out one half side of the canoe bottom, from just past the keel line to the gunwales end to end. As soon as that half has been rolled out gently drag a foam brush from end to end until you have tipped out the coat you rolled on that side.

Then move to the other side and repeat.