St. John River Trip Report
May 30-June 2, 2020
We had survived social distancing pretty well, all things considered, but I'd be lying if if I didn't admit I was getting a bit stir crazy as April rolled into May. In early May I got the brilliant idea to run the St. John, or the Allagash, or somewhere, anywhere, to get out and recharge the batteries. But a quick glance at the NMW website told me what I didn't want to know. They were abiding by the governors no camping rules and that included remote camping along the waterway.
By mid May that had changed, and Mainers were allowed to go camping. I learned this on Memorial day, made a few calls to the usual suspects, but no one was able to get away. Fine, I thought, I'll do the St John as a solo trip. 20 years ago I ran the St. John as a solo trip, my first remote river, and I had paddled it 5 additional times in the intervening years, so another solo trip seemed like a good idea.
Forgetting about minimum water levels for the time being, I contacted Bobby Hafford in Allagash (www.allagashwildlife.com) and arranged for a shuttle to Baker lake. Because I had some freeze-dried food left over from a hiking trip, I decided to go really lightweight. My camping gear and food weighed about 35#. I decided to take my OT Penobscot 16 with the center seat, and found instructions for adding a dynel Skid Plate here on Canoetripping forums (Thanks!) I packed my gear, tested the stove, etc. and headed north to Allagash on Friday May 29. Bobby let me stay in one of his camps overlooking the St. John in Allagash Village, where I noticed that the water was really low.
The weather forecast was for rain, so I should be good, right? and temps (currently in the upper 80sF) were going to drop as well, so that should solve 2 immediate problems, water level and bugs.
At 6 am on Saturday morning May 30 we packed up and headed south, arriving at Baker lake at 10am in warm, bright sunshine. I quickly loaded up and pushed off. The water was very low and I ground out any number of times. But the water was tepid - warm and the day was clear. I paddled to Doucie Brook (22 miles) where I hung my hammock. As I was getting ready for dinner I discovered that my Jetboil Helios stove would not light, no gas, no nothing. Dead as a doornail. I looked at my supply of Cliff bars, Reny's chocolate bars, and gorp and thought Hey, I can do this. No coffee will be the worst of the lot! I snuggled into my hammock and fell asleep.
5 Am Sunday, May 31. Whoa, it was cold, as in below freezing cold. I ate my cold granola, had cold instant coffee while looking at my fresh bag of french roast and my Aeropress. I guess I could have made cold aero press coffee. I was packed and on the water by 6.
I made a critical mistake at this point. The temperatures were in the mid 30s and there were rainy gusts coming through. I figured it would warm up and I would be working hard, not to mention expecting to climb out of my canoe as I had the previous day to shove off of rocks and shallow spots. I made the stupid mistake of wearing shorts and sandals.
By 8 am I had gotten as far as the Northwest Branch campsite (7 miles) and I was shivering and very cold. I pulled in, set up my tarp and hammock and under quilt and sleeping bag and crawled in. It was a scary experience, and I knew better. Fortunately, the rain gusts stopped and I was able to get warm and dry. I decided to pack up and carry on downstream and left by 10 am.
Camp that night was at Seven Islands. I had paddled 34 miles for the day. I tried my stove again (no luck) and discovered that my lighter was also non functional. No fire for me. Gorp and Cliff bars and cheese and salami for supper.
Monday June 1 dawned clear and cold but the sun was very warm. I packed and was on the water by 7 (I had dawdled in the sun). The river had gained some water and I learned how to read the water and pick routes with slightly more water. At midday I came to a series of drops and thought they must be Big Black rapids. Sure enough, just below them I came to the campsite at the confluence and had lunch.
In the interest of fairness I have to say that despite the lack of warm food and coffee I ate pretty well. At home my lovely wife hates the smell of Kipper snacks, but out on the river I was free to indulge. I packed up and headed downstream, arriving at my third and final campsite at Fox Brook. 43 miles for the day.
430 am June 2 dawned frosty cold with morning mist. I waited until the mist began to rise and set out around 6. Soon it was clear, and I paddled down to Big Rapids. This was the lowest water level I have ever experienced and it was very different from high water conditions. At Big Rapids (and at Big Black on the the previous day) the trick was to go slowly and dodge rocks. I generally stayed river left all the way down, and stayed dry the whole way. Another bit and I was under the bridge, then an hour later I was at the confluence of the Allagash and St. John and my take out. I had done 14 miles for the day, and 113 miles total. I started at 10 am 3 days earlier and ended at 10am, for a total time of 72 hours.
I know there is no virtue in going fast on a wilderness river, and I'm not a racer at all. When I'm with others I like to take my time, but I absolutely love being in my canoe and seeing what the next bend in the river brings. I saw moose, deer and eagles on this trip. I was scared by my wardrobe error on Sunday, and luck was with me. There were no other people on the river and none expected. I was totally on my own. I think my familiarity with the river made me be a bit more casual than I should have been.
Paddling in low water was very interesting. The river banks were green and lush, whereas all previous trips they were still brown and waiting to grow. Low water meant hunting for channels, which kept me on my toes. My Penobscot 16 handled like a champ, it's truly a wonderful boat for this kind of experience. I brought two paddles, a bending branches Explorer Plus for shallow water, and a very lightweight homemade cherry Beavertail paddle that I used in deeper water. Having the lighter paddle made for a better day!
Thanks for staying with me. It was a great experience!
May 30-June 2, 2020
We had survived social distancing pretty well, all things considered, but I'd be lying if if I didn't admit I was getting a bit stir crazy as April rolled into May. In early May I got the brilliant idea to run the St. John, or the Allagash, or somewhere, anywhere, to get out and recharge the batteries. But a quick glance at the NMW website told me what I didn't want to know. They were abiding by the governors no camping rules and that included remote camping along the waterway.
By mid May that had changed, and Mainers were allowed to go camping. I learned this on Memorial day, made a few calls to the usual suspects, but no one was able to get away. Fine, I thought, I'll do the St John as a solo trip. 20 years ago I ran the St. John as a solo trip, my first remote river, and I had paddled it 5 additional times in the intervening years, so another solo trip seemed like a good idea.
Forgetting about minimum water levels for the time being, I contacted Bobby Hafford in Allagash (www.allagashwildlife.com) and arranged for a shuttle to Baker lake. Because I had some freeze-dried food left over from a hiking trip, I decided to go really lightweight. My camping gear and food weighed about 35#. I decided to take my OT Penobscot 16 with the center seat, and found instructions for adding a dynel Skid Plate here on Canoetripping forums (Thanks!) I packed my gear, tested the stove, etc. and headed north to Allagash on Friday May 29. Bobby let me stay in one of his camps overlooking the St. John in Allagash Village, where I noticed that the water was really low.
The weather forecast was for rain, so I should be good, right? and temps (currently in the upper 80sF) were going to drop as well, so that should solve 2 immediate problems, water level and bugs.
At 6 am on Saturday morning May 30 we packed up and headed south, arriving at Baker lake at 10am in warm, bright sunshine. I quickly loaded up and pushed off. The water was very low and I ground out any number of times. But the water was tepid - warm and the day was clear. I paddled to Doucie Brook (22 miles) where I hung my hammock. As I was getting ready for dinner I discovered that my Jetboil Helios stove would not light, no gas, no nothing. Dead as a doornail. I looked at my supply of Cliff bars, Reny's chocolate bars, and gorp and thought Hey, I can do this. No coffee will be the worst of the lot! I snuggled into my hammock and fell asleep.
5 Am Sunday, May 31. Whoa, it was cold, as in below freezing cold. I ate my cold granola, had cold instant coffee while looking at my fresh bag of french roast and my Aeropress. I guess I could have made cold aero press coffee. I was packed and on the water by 6.
I made a critical mistake at this point. The temperatures were in the mid 30s and there were rainy gusts coming through. I figured it would warm up and I would be working hard, not to mention expecting to climb out of my canoe as I had the previous day to shove off of rocks and shallow spots. I made the stupid mistake of wearing shorts and sandals.
By 8 am I had gotten as far as the Northwest Branch campsite (7 miles) and I was shivering and very cold. I pulled in, set up my tarp and hammock and under quilt and sleeping bag and crawled in. It was a scary experience, and I knew better. Fortunately, the rain gusts stopped and I was able to get warm and dry. I decided to pack up and carry on downstream and left by 10 am.
Camp that night was at Seven Islands. I had paddled 34 miles for the day. I tried my stove again (no luck) and discovered that my lighter was also non functional. No fire for me. Gorp and Cliff bars and cheese and salami for supper.
Monday June 1 dawned clear and cold but the sun was very warm. I packed and was on the water by 7 (I had dawdled in the sun). The river had gained some water and I learned how to read the water and pick routes with slightly more water. At midday I came to a series of drops and thought they must be Big Black rapids. Sure enough, just below them I came to the campsite at the confluence and had lunch.
In the interest of fairness I have to say that despite the lack of warm food and coffee I ate pretty well. At home my lovely wife hates the smell of Kipper snacks, but out on the river I was free to indulge. I packed up and headed downstream, arriving at my third and final campsite at Fox Brook. 43 miles for the day.
430 am June 2 dawned frosty cold with morning mist. I waited until the mist began to rise and set out around 6. Soon it was clear, and I paddled down to Big Rapids. This was the lowest water level I have ever experienced and it was very different from high water conditions. At Big Rapids (and at Big Black on the the previous day) the trick was to go slowly and dodge rocks. I generally stayed river left all the way down, and stayed dry the whole way. Another bit and I was under the bridge, then an hour later I was at the confluence of the Allagash and St. John and my take out. I had done 14 miles for the day, and 113 miles total. I started at 10 am 3 days earlier and ended at 10am, for a total time of 72 hours.
I know there is no virtue in going fast on a wilderness river, and I'm not a racer at all. When I'm with others I like to take my time, but I absolutely love being in my canoe and seeing what the next bend in the river brings. I saw moose, deer and eagles on this trip. I was scared by my wardrobe error on Sunday, and luck was with me. There were no other people on the river and none expected. I was totally on my own. I think my familiarity with the river made me be a bit more casual than I should have been.
Paddling in low water was very interesting. The river banks were green and lush, whereas all previous trips they were still brown and waiting to grow. Low water meant hunting for channels, which kept me on my toes. My Penobscot 16 handled like a champ, it's truly a wonderful boat for this kind of experience. I brought two paddles, a bending branches Explorer Plus for shallow water, and a very lightweight homemade cherry Beavertail paddle that I used in deeper water. Having the lighter paddle made for a better day!
Thanks for staying with me. It was a great experience!
