Search results

So, looking back at my question about symmetrical vs swedeform - I guess I don't have an answer to that, since there are other differences in the hull shape between my two 15.5' solos. It's likely that the chine shape and width differences are just as much or more in play. The only thing I can...

Yes. That's my ski jargon leaking in. :)

Yeah, they're quite different. I used a curve copying device to show it clearly. Both measurements are taken where I sit. Notice in this photo, the guide is lined up close to the middle of the Solitude hull. In this one, the end of the guide is a just a little past the center on the Moccasin...

Good question. As soon as the sun comes up and sheds light on the lean-to, I'll take a closer look at both of them. Off the top of my head, I'm going to say the chines are probably different, but I can't describe from memory.

Thanks, Erik. I had forgotten about that discussion and the mention of the Yellowstone being swedeform. ...Or maybe it's just that you're on the right shoulder of that bell curve and your forward stroke doesn't suck. ;) I'm a welter weight, and while I don't have a Yellowstone to compare, I...

I think we've narrowed all this down to "it depends". ;)

That seems intuitive. And like I said, I'm going on memory - so that is suspect. I really need to get both boats on the lake on the same calm day. The "calm" thing has been rare around here lately.

So, what about edging symmetrical (below the waterline) vs Swedeform? I still have to get the Moccasin and the Solitude out on the same day for comparison, but just going on memory it seems that the Solitude responds to edging for a turn a bit more than the Moccasin. Both 15.5' long. Both zero...

True. If I ever see a Magic or NW Solo in my price range within a day's drive, I'm all over that.

I thought that too, until I got one. In fact, I remember seeing specs listed somewhere that showed zero bow and 1" stern, and I thought at the time that must be a misprint. But then I observed it on my own two examples. Actually, I think it would be described more accurately as deadrise. All the...

The Malecite is an interesting sideline to this discussion, since what little rocker it has is in the stern. Unfortunately, it's been a very long time since I last paddled it solo. So I can't say much about that. Paddling it tandem with my wife, it doesn't get leaned much to turn, other than...

Try again with the JB. I did a "temporary" repair on the cracked aluminum rail on my Penobscot that never came off. I think you just have to get the surface real clean and possibly sand off any oxidation before adding the JB. Come to think of it, I did a field repair years ago on an aluminum...

That's my plan. I try to keep active through winter - with skis if possible, and with the drysuit until ice. Biggest issue is avoiding injury related interruptions.

I'm with Mem. It's a good $100 canoe, and I would give it the Rust-Oleum treatment and paddle it. Wouldn't give the spider cracks any further thought.

The Pal in a lightweight composite would be nice, but the Penobscot is one of the best Royalex canoes IMO. Don't know that I would make that upgrade vs picking up something with rocker as an option (or a solo). But that's just me.

I can't tell from the photos if it's royalex or poly. But the scratches shown all look superficial and not worth worrying about. You really need to see what the inside looks like. Replacement seats and thwarts could easily add as much as $100 or more, unless you're handy enough to make your own...

BTW - enjoy that Appy! I hear it's a great river canoe, and especially good for poling.

Even if it's epoxy or the ABS layer just under the skin, it's best to not leave it uncovered. On a gouge that size showing ABS, I usually skin over it with G-flex epoxy mixed with pigment to guard from UV damage. But at the very least, give it some paint. If it is the foam core, you should be...

That also looks like a good way to restore a badly damaged paddle. @Black_Fly , on my paddles carved from a single stick, I've simply painted a thin coat of epoxy on the tip. But I only use them in deep water,so they rarely touch anything harder than a log.

Depends on the difficulty of the features and the length of the flat stretches. But I generally would prefer the Prospector styles for any rivers where maneuverability is desirable. I had both the Penobscot 16 and the NC Prospector for a while. The Penobscot was faster, but the Prospector was...