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The tech dimensions seem to give all the pertinent info .... https://cascadedesigns.com/en-ca/products/pro-dry-pack?srsltid=AfmBOoqgR5K4jMkL9c2BUlc07-CA6h7l0a0oyakLd0GzumdvZ4UHhZHj

Not as flashy as the Trippy Canoe, but I did manage to finish off stripping, albeit in a more traditional manner. The new hold down system is actually worth the effort for me, it is hands down the easiest I have tried and it worked well (with no mods) right up till I closed the football...

Yes

That will certainly make you stand out on the lake ... may scare any wildlife, but you won't be missed, for sure. Any thoughts on impeding the flow of epoxy into the wood now? Think I would worry some about how well the epoxy will penetrate the glaze.

TB III is a good product and has it's pluses like being pretty much the strongest glue available, waterproof, reasonable open time and easy use (literally point and shoot). Mem if you haven't tried making a small puddle of TB III and let it dry (make sure to use a smooth non porous surface so...

If you have good habits, like cleaning up excess glue it is great, I always caution folks because "cleaning up excess glue" seems to be a foreign concept to some. For stripping I am a fan of the LePages Express, you get just enough time for putting on a strip, 10 minute setup and a 37 F chalk...

If you are worried about developing or have sensitivity, then cleanup of any skin contact is also important ... the recommendation is to use waterless handcleaner, I keep a jar in the shop just for that purpose. Apparently solvents such as water will help it transit through the skin...

Corrections for those tables are an issue, I found this https://www.bearmountainboats.com/pages/faq#lofting-typo There may be more as well

Just booked my spring trip and I didn't see anything on the website. That may change, it seems pretty volatile ATM.

Just to make a distinction when talking about paddle sizing, you are actually just determining the shaft length. The blade is not part of the determination. Personally I use the hands up elbows at 90 degrees, but the caveat is that is only supposed to be a starting point to get you in the...

It isn't just the Uniwales, they aren't magic, they are just something most folks don't do, so it's a different approach ... and lets face it, we are all a bit different here. You can achieve similar savings with pretty much all forms of gunnels, including scuppered, just don't overbuild for...

I extended the sheer point from the centre form to the ends, to keep the strip line parallel to the water, so yes, I will step the ends once the football is closed up. Brian

Like I say Jim, you always see the details ... I didn't have a pic of those, so those are from the last build. I found the painters tape still sticks a little, so I am using clear shiny tape this time. And those (sanding stick pics) are the infamous 7/8" I used on the last build ... the 5/8" on...

Stripping is moving along pretty well .... This is a pic of the last strip before I remove the Bow support piece and a closeup of the profile filed for the next strip The very next strip is the rollover point where I will be swapping from interlocking to long angle straight joints. You...

Allan pointed out to me last build that mixing strip widths is a valid method and I agree with that, if you are already at the "buckle" point and can take that strip off and then proceed with the narrower strips, that just seems like less work. Especially if you are going to try narrower strips...

I hate to suggest this, but I suspect if you try cutting a few strips in half and try those, the problem will disappear. Those look awfully wide and when you are curving like that, I think the bottom and top of the strips travel a different line (the top and bottom travel length is different)...

I think I mentioned this before as well, the 1/4" B&C is fine... to a point, then they start to kick out of the cove because it is shallow. I suspect it is really a matter of what the hull is doing, if it is fairly flat you will never see an issue. If you get twists and turns, the B&C can start...

You can never have too many

Great progress. Personally, I like to use more Jimmi Clamps .... my form spacings are ~`13.5" and I use 3 JCs between forms. In the picture, that is a pretty long space, at the end, for just 2 strip clamps IMO. Also as you get close to the turn to the bilge, the clamps aren't really usable in...

I saw Jim post those, I always wondered (FB isn't great for build threads) if they adjusted or just apply more and more pressure as the strip stack gets wider. That was one of the things I was trying to design into what I use, something that would allow strip holding without fiddling as I added...