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All right I'll give up my idea (for what it's worth). Make the full length gunwale to the correct profile including the slot, preferable from foam but cedar might work as well if the shear isn't too swoopy. Make strips of polyethelyne the same size as the slots the full length of the gunwale...

Come on this is getting ridiculous, peel it back and take some pictures!!!

Ohh carbon works too.

No I think you'll be ok. I was worried you were stopping before the deck. Just make sure the joint is strong enough to transfer any gunwale loads to the deck. If your doing a simple butt joint I'd add some fiberglass.

One other thing to be concerned with is the gap from gunwale to deck. I think you're going to have a structurally stiff gunwale and deck with a springy section in between. The gunwale is going to transfer the load s to the springy section and you might have problems. Might want to reconsider...

Clamp temporarily in place and use two or three wood screws to hold it semipermanently, I wish I had that many C clamps though.

I love this...you're doing all the leg work for my build. I vote for one of the tapered versions probably second from the left in the picture that has five profiles. Good luck with the Carbon, I wouldn't have guessed it would make that much of an improvement, it will look sweet when it's done...

If I go with the float chambers I'm going to do the same thing. If I do a really good job on the inside Fiberglas maybe I'll convince myself to skip the chambers. I know your pain on the home addition, I went through the same thing. Ended up with dense pack cellulose.

Well that makes me feel better. I have this French curve looking scraper that in using in the chine area, seems to be working ok. After scraping I'll quickly hand sand and say good enough. Good observation on the forms, they are a pain in the neck. Mem kayak folks always drill through the...

Oh and how much epoxy have you used so far? I think the 4 oz glass really saves a lot of weight by not needing much epoxy to fill.

Wow amazing progress! I think I'd trade some of that wt for security if I could. Pretty impressive doing all that testing....and now you're going with carbon on foam. Are float chambers going to be the decks also? seems like a lot of people kep them separate. Not really sure why.

Sanding stinks. I probably have 4hrs of scraping and sanding so far and still have ten to go. The inside joints don't look too bad, a few gaps where I over beveled but most of them seem to be on the dark strips so hopefully they will hide well. Here are a couple of pictures.

Forgot a picture of the seat

For the seats I'm thinking of going pretty unconventional. At each seat location I'm going to have two cross rails made from black fiberglass on backer rod. I'm going to add buttresses underneath to help distribute the loads to the hull. Onto the rails I'm going to add a back joy seat. I used...

For the gunwales I'm thinking a 3/16 strip on the inside and about 1/2 to 3/4 on theoutside. Probably going to leave a gap on the upper surface that I'll fill with black epoxy. I'll either use redwood or cedar not sure if I'll fiberglass or not. For the decks I'm thinking about using strips...

For the seats I was thinking about playing with foam backer rod and wrapping it with 8oz fiberglass I have. Basically I want to make a lightweight simple truss. I'll draw a picture when I get some time.

The lightweight part is a little scary it's like picking up an eggshell. Still pretty floppy I know it will stiffen up a lot with the inside fiberglass and the gunwales but right now it's scary. No big plans for launching but I am getting more excited to get it wet. probably stay local for...

I put the second layer on a yesterday along with two layers on the stems. I really should have put a fill coat on but I couldn't wait to see how much it weighed. With a full 4oz layer and another to the 4" WL it came in at 20.3#. Hopefully I can stay around 35# all done. The inside looks OK...

I learned this from one of the Kayak forums, I thought it might be helpful for anyone doing epoxy work. When I epoxy I use a squeegee and I sometimes have a little ripple left behind from the side of the squeegee. Instead of sanding I use a razor blade as a scraper. It works much better, I...

I had to use all of the heat sources I coud to get the basement warm. With everything on I got it up to 75. I cut out the football shape first, I was going to put it down first but decided a full layer first made more sense. Last picture shows it all done.