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I did do a detailed build thread on my last boat, you may find some ideas there (if you have interest), it can be found here https://www.canoetripping.net/threads/light-weight-solo-tripper-build.105054/ Brian

Thanks Mem, I missed that and concur, seems backwards ... I had in my head to use the SilverTip for wetout. Now ... maybe I will order a gallon of SilverTip for the wetouts and a gallon of General Purpose for the fill coats ....

Enjoying your build, I am still a month or so away from starting my next one. Most of my research, for changes I want to make. is done and since you are at the sanding/epoxy stage, I will share a couple of interesting papers, These made enough sense. to me, that I intend to adopt on the new...

Always enjoy watching other folks build, it's a chance to appreciate and learn .... I really like that grain pattern. I have the same attraction to a one piece, but really haven't taken that plunge yet, I suspect that is because I haven't ran across a nice piece of wood like that that screams...

Done and thanks

Nice job .....

Like mine angled as well, although I tend to make the yoke lighter and then add a wedge at the sides. Brian

I would shape a re reinforcement going across that glue joint, if you are going to use it as a carryt handle. Stressing a glue joint like that is not a good idea IMO. Brian

Watched that a while back as well, ordered the router bits to do these, but haven't made the opportunity to make a few yet. Just in the middle of another set of paddles and now I want to try that, oh well, maybe next time. Brian

There is a thinning schedule on the Epiphanes website ... I am not surprised full strength gave you some lap issues. The schedule is something like 50% over bare wood and get progressively stronger to 15% at the end (look it up, don't take these numbers as gospel). Also, make sure you use the...

Hi Woody, A few years ago, a building friend did up a Freedom 17 and used composite gunnels. His method and results were about the best I have seen, I just looked at that link, but the image links don't seem to work atm, so I have requested him to look at them and if he gets it fixed, I will...

Personally, I have a folding bucksaw, a Fiskars and a larger Silky ..... they all get the job done, but there is little question that the Silky just works better. The Fiskars has been relegated to yardwork, the Silky goes on every trip and I haven't even laid eyes on the bucksaw in a long...

I have built 2 Freedom Solos with that hard chine, I followed some advice from a builder friend. 1) have a few narrower strips for the chine area 2) On the mold area were the chine is sharp, just round it off using something like a 3/8" radius You still get the hard chine look, but the narrow...

As is often the case, Alan has hit the issue square on the head. Power density per pound, in a battery, versus ANY of the infield generators is a hard win for the battery, in the short term (lets define that as 1 week or less). Once you start extending the trip time past 1 week, then it starts...

The real issue with using any denatured alcohol (IMO), is usually the lack of details on what was used to denature the solution. If it was something like benzene or methanol, that increases the handling risk and precautions needed ... if it was something like castol oil, then you might have a...

Raka site says they specify using volume because it is "simpler" for the user. They also go on to outline steps to test and ensure those volumes are delivered. I suspect most folks don't complete the steps to actually test the delivered volumes .... this creates a potential issue when the pumps...

If it is just a matter of creating a nonslip surface ... there is a very easy solution for that. I have been contemplating making a light weight emergency tent backup and the solution for pads sliding on the "slippery" materials used on a tent bottom is to add a couple of silicone bands ... let...

Elevation ... move up to a hammock

Green epoxy (lets define that as 36 hours and less) is always easier to scrape, but cured epoxy is not that much more difficult, just requires a bit more patience. You don't need to add more pressure to your strokes, on cured epoxy, just do a few extra strokes. Rather than repeat ... this link...

For those glass edges, a good flat carbide scraper is your friend ... fast efficient leveling like this https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/scrapers/20094-carbide-tipped-scrapers Brian