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This is my first build and it's experimental. If I don't like it I can easily change it with a shim or more hand tool work. I've always wondered why carry yokes are typically installed parallel to the canoe when canoes are seldom carried parallel to the ground. Perhaps I'll find out!

I was curious to see how far the actual balance point deviated from the theoretical balance point. The plans call for the carry thwart to be 8’-6” from the stern, 9’ from the bow (asymmetrical hull). Even with the adjustable bow seat all the way back it was bow heavy at that location. Adding my...

The decks are installed and all that’s left is varnishing the exterior and applying tung oil to the gunnels. I made Jim Dodd style drain holes at the stems. I was happy with the inwale to deck fits so ended up using Titebond 3 instead of epoxy. While dry running my clamp strategy for stern deck...

Thanks Mem! I was surprised when I started locating seats and thwarts how far back the bow seat is located and how much canoe length an adjustable seat requires. Although the Yukon is a foot and a half longer than our 16 foot Mad River Explorer the cargo area between the bow and stern seats is...

The plans call for an adjustable bow seat which I fully intended to ignore. But not having experience with an asymmetrical hull, having no idea where to place a fixed bow seat, and not having deviated from the plans so far, I went for it. The Yukon is a tripping canoe and we know how to trim...

Seats are going in and it feels like the finish line is in sight. I made a scribing jig out of scrap lumber for the rear seat. Once it was positioned and supported I scribed one rail at a time and when satisfied with the fit screwed it to the jig. After transferring the long point of each cut to...

Thank you Brian and Jim for your thoughts on the book match deck glue joints. I pondered on them a bit before proceeding as I did. “CanoeCraft” actually shows a spline at that location, but I thought that overkill. I used Titebond 3 for those joints and had good fits and clamp pressure. I’m...

I decided to omit carry handles, for the time being anyway. I excavated the underside of the decks a bit in an attempt to provide more hand traction.

Your restoration is an exercise in triage, critical thinking and creative problem solving. The nylon webbing band clamp is perfect for it's task. Well done! Rick

Really nice job! Thank you for taking the time to photograph and document your build. I've enjoyed following along and learned a lot.

I had a similar situation (post # 31 on my build thread) and after some great advice lowered the stem form the appropriate amount. If you do that the end of the interior stem inside the canoe will be 7/8 inch high instead of 3/4. You could leave it or work it down to 3/4 inch at that point. Rick

I decided to try the suggestion in “CanoeCraft” to profile away the top flat surface of the thwarts. I used a spokeshave, but rasps could also work. I was amazed at the visual and tactile difference. It was a fun, simple and satisfying process. The photo shows the profiled top surface of the...

Thank you John and Brian. I had read the instructions on the can which I interpreted to mean thinning is not required for application on an impervious surface. I'll pick up some Epifanes thinner and start with a 15% thinned coat and adjust from there. I bet I'll notice a big difference. I really...

The interior is varnished now with 2 coats of Epifanes high gloss followed by 1 coat of Epifanes matte. Each coat was applied full strength (no thinner added). I’m happy with how it came out, but not delighted, if you know what I mean. I’ve never varnished anything bigger than a snowshoe and I...

Astral YTV here. I like simple and it is. Took me a while to accustom to a pull over, but now it's second nature.

Nice job on those seat rail ends to hull fits. Not easy to do! I don't have personal experience with installing a seat that way, but I'd feel more secure with a supporting ledger fitted to the seat rail ends, glued to the hull.

I have 2 thoughts based on 1 (almost) canoe build. It looks like the Raven has tapered stems so you are likely bending 1 5/8 inch wide stock around a 3/4 inch wide stem form? If you have scrap 3/4 inch sheet goods kicking around you might double the thickness of the stem bending form which...

We decided to install small, simple decks. I had a 8/4 scrap of ash which presented the opportunity to book match the grain. One of the great things about this project has been the chance to learn and try new techniques. I’ve never book matched anything. I made mockups of both bow and stern...

Thanks Patrick. I used a couple of gouges, mallet and 40 grit sandpaper. That worked well and afforded me more control than an angle grinder with flap disk.

I still need to make a carry thwart and 2 regular thwarts. I’m working on those while I varnish the interior. A few years ago I tried to improve a commercial flat carry yoke using an angle grinder with a flap, sanding disk. I had nothing to copy. With no clear picture of the end zone it turned...