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No Title Canotrouge, Calling a particular set of rapids or rips a "fall" is a local, albiet, confusing nomenclature. On the East Branch of the Penobscot the runnable sections are called "falls" whereas the unrunnable sections are called "pitches". You certainly would not want to try running...

Ever since hurricane Irene the Saco has changed dramatically. Now it only takes an inch or so of rain, as happened the night before the accident, to create some very pushy water. Add the occasional sweeper, and cold water and a novice paddler can get in trouble in a hurry. The canoe liverys...

Ditto on the matches. Wooden strike anywhere matches loose most of that ability after about a year. Best to start with new in the spring and relegate the older ones to wood stove duty. Dave

I use Total Boat High Build marine primer after sanding the filler. As Robin, I use a glazing putty for problem spots, but, as Robin said, don't continue sanding the areas that show weave. I'm also a fan of George Kirby marine enamel. Dave

Looks pretty much like a Farrier's hoof knife with a relaxed hook on the end of the blade. Dave

I,ve had good luck using a small restorer's pry bar inserted carefully between the rib and inwale to make enough space for a hacksaw blade to cut the nails holding the rib. When replacing the rib I have drilled a 1/16" pilot hole to make sure I'm not hitting the previous nail head, then driven a...

Nice work GGTBod. I particularly like the plum spoon. Dave

Seda PFDs

I am in agreement with Mihun09's method. Another method was to use a combination of boiled linseed oil, mineral spirits, and wood preservative applied heated to the outside before canvasing. Linseed oil is excellent food for mold but since the old canvas filler was made with white lead, its...

One of the main attractions of wood canvas canoes is the ability to repair/restore to like new from any degree of damage or neglect. I believe the trade off of epoxy in place of, or in addition to, varnish inhibits, to a large degree, this attribute for very little, if any, gain. Another...

Varnish has a certain amount of flex due to it being "softer" than say poly. This has been why it was/is so suitable for marine applications. Also it is far easier to strip than a polyurethane or epoxy finish. Dave

I'm a fan of a good quality spar varnish. First coat thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits, then two or three more as desired. If it can hold up to a salt water enviroment it's plenty of protection. Dave

Probably why it was for sale in such a pristine condition. #3s are about max size for me. Dave

Work a small section at a time (3 or 4 ribs) and keep the surface wet with stripper. I much prefer the chemical stripper. Wear goggles or at least safety glasses, you don't want to get that stuff in your eyes. I like to follow up with a two part teak cleaner. If the varnish is thick you may have...

What was the discssion again?

70, but feel like 30 until I have to throw that 20' wood canvas onto my shoulders! Dave

Nice looking work Robin. Dave

Aziscohos,Richardson, and Umbagog all can be treacherous when the wind kicks up. They're all long, narrow, and oriented to allow the most prevalent winds to sweep their entire length. I usually put in due east of Bosebuck Camp on the NE corner of the lake. The extreme north end is much more...