PFDs: Class 3 or 5 PFD for Whitewater?

After reading and posting on the “Whatever happened to Canoe lifejackets?” thread, I started looking up information on new PFDs. I have always used a regular Class 3 PFD, choosing one that fit my body first and wallet second. I hadn’t looked at PFDs for a while since purchasing one around six or seven years ago, so I started looking for info on what is currently on the market.

The first thing I noticed was the minimum buoyancy; 15.5 lbs. for the Type 3 and Type 5. I also noticed that most of the Type 5 PFDs designed for paddling and Swift Water Rescue typically have 18 to 25 lbs. or so of buoyancy along with being designed to float with the face up in case of unconsciousness. Maybe a Class 5 PFD might be a good idea for my next whitewater PFD?

I noted another change since I last read up on PFDs. The “Type 3 (or 5)” system is being replaced by the USCG classifications of the Level 50, 70, and 100 system designating the Newtons (a metric measure of force, thus floatation) offered by a PFD. The higher the number, the more floatation. The old Class 3 corresponds to the new Level 70. It appears that this new system has not been fully adopted yet as most companies are still listing the Type 3 and Type 5 designations in their descriptions, though my 6 (or 7) year old PFD has the new Level 70 rating printed on it.

After that lead-in, I come to my questions: Is anyone using a Type 5 PFD instead of a of a Type 3, especially in whitewater? Have you noticed any difference in a swim? Does the additional foam provide any extra warmth in cooler weather or water? Are there any other pros or cons that you have noticed, besides the additional rescue attachments?

Thanks for your input on my next whitewater PFD decision.

I don't think type V necessarily means more floatation than type III. I think it has something to do with intended usage. I just looked at a couple WW jackets I'm interested in and they offer the same thing in a regular and one with Swift water rescue features. For example, the NRS Ninja vs the Ninja Pro and the Kokotat Hustle vs Hustler. Both versions have the same buoyancy but the regular version is listed as type III and the one with rescue features (eg. for clipping in a rope) are type V.

There is some info here on the differences:


The gist of it is that one is designed for conscious swimmers while the other is intended for unconscious swimmers.

SouthernKevlar said:

After reading and posting on the “Whatever happened to Canoe lifejackets?” thread, I started looking up information on new PFDs. I have always used a regular Class 3 PFD, choosing one that fit my body first and wallet second. I hadn’t looked at PFDs for a while since purchasing one around six or seven years ago, so I started looking for info on what is currently on the market.

The first thing I noticed was the minimum buoyancy; 15.5 lbs. for the Type 3 and Type 5. I also noticed that most of the Type 5 PFDs designed for paddling and Swift Water Rescue typically have 18 to 25 lbs. or so of buoyancy along with being designed to float with the face up in case of unconsciousness. Maybe a Class 5 PFD might be a good idea for my next whitewater PFD?

I noted another change since I last read up on PFDs. The “Type 3 (or 5)” system is being replaced by the USCG classifications of the Level 50, 70, and 100 system designating the Newtons (a metric measure of force, thus floatation) offered by a PFD. The higher the number, the more floatation. The old Class 3 corresponds to the new Level 70. It appears that this new system has not been fully adopted yet as most companies are still listing the Type 3 and Type 5 designations in their descriptions, though my 6 (or 7) year old PFD has the new Level 70 rating printed on it.

After that lead-in, I come to my questions: Is anyone using a Type 5 PFD instead of a of a Type 3, especially in whitewater? Have you noticed any difference in a swim? Does the additional foam provide any extra warmth in cooler weather or water? Are there any other pros or cons that you have noticed, besides the additional rescue attachments?

Thanks for your input on my next whitewater PFD decision.

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Type 5 PFDs are "special use". The addition of a rescue belt to the design can change a Type 3 into a Type 5 without any other mods.

Thank you all for your information.

I think I may have asked the wrong question and should have asked if anyone here had used any of the High-Floatation PFDs in whitewater. Most of the High-Floatation whitewater vests that I have found (Astral Indrus at 22 lbs. Floatation., Stohlquist Canyon at 26 lbs., NRS Big Water at 22lbs. and NRS Hi-Float at 25.1 lbs.) are rated as Type 5 and have more buoyancy than the usual Type 3 (at 15-17 lbs.) along with the design features to float you face up in case of a head bashing accident.
It looks like most of the High-Floatation PFDs are Type 5, but most Type 5s are not High-Floatation.

So if anyone has used any of the High-Floatation PFDs, I would be interested in hearing your comments on them. Thanks again!

SouthernKevlar said:

After reading and posting on the “Whatever happened to Canoe lifejackets?” thread, I started looking up information on new PFDs.

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SouthernKevlar said:

Is anyone using a Type 5 PFD instead of a of a Type 3, especially in whitewater? Have you noticed any difference in a swim? Does the additional foam provide any extra warmth in cooler weather or water? Are there any other pros or cons that you have noticed, besides the additional rescue attachments?

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As I mentioned in that other thread, I used the original Extrasport Hi-Float life jacket, which had approximately 22-24 lbs. of flotation, for 15 years of whitewater open canoeing in the 1980s and 90s. So did most other whitewater boaters I knew, including kayakers because the below-waist bottom could be folded up above the cockpit skirt. The Hi-Float was originally sold by Charlie Waldbridge as a kit:




The most current version of the Waldbridge Hi-Float is the Extrasport Swiftwater Ranger life jacket. Its history is documented here:


The original Hi-Floats did not have any rescue accoutrements and were considered Type 3 PFDs. Later, Extrasport did make a rescue version of the Hi-Float, which made it a Type 5 (specialized) PFD even though the flotation remained the same.

A Type 1 is the type that will roll an unconscious person face-up in the water. They were and probably still are used a lot by rafting companies.



The primary benefit of a high flotation life jacket is that it will buoy you up higher when swimming in aerated whitewater, make it less likely that hydraulics can suck you under, and minimize the chance that long wave trains will flush drown you. A secondary benefit is that they provide more cushioning for bodily impacts against river rocks. Finally, I suppose they provide more warmth than a similarly cut 15.5 lb. Type 3 jacket, though I don't recall anyone buying a Hi-Float for that reason.

The negative of a high flotation Type 3 vs. a 15.5 lb. Type 3 is that they are bulkier and somewhat more restrictive. On balance, that was never a big detriment to me. I've never worn a Hi-Float when paddling flat water, but rather a 15.5 lb. jacket—and later, for warm weather, a 7.5-22.5 lb. hybrid inflatable jacket, the Kokatat SeaO2.



I know @PaddlingPitt used an Extrasport Hi-Float because it appears in many of his whitewater and tripping pictures. Maybe he will chime in.

When I started out a bought a high-float. I figured if 16 lbs was good, 22 lbs must be better - not so much. It was bulky and uncomfortable to paddle. It is still in my basement in like new condition. Some of the high float models now are probably more comfortable than the one I bought 20-years ago, but I'm fine with a type 3 with 16 lbs of flotation. It pops me up with breath to spare (at least it always has - knock wood).

I'm also looking for a new PFD. For me, type 3 is fine, but it needs to have a full back and pockets to hold my camera. I've been looking but I haven't found one.

SouthernKevlar said:

So if anyone has used any of the High-Floatation PFDs, I would be interested in hearing your comments on them. Thanks again!

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When I was still solo canoeing Class 3/4 white water I used different PFDs depending on water volume and/or temperature. I don't float very well so when paddling early season with cold water temps or big water (6,000 to 10,000 CFS) I would definitely use my high-floatation vest. It was bulky and not as comfortable to wear but helped keep me on top of the water when I went for a swim. Otherwise, when the water warmed up and the rivers weren't as pushy, I'd use a slimmer, more comfortable pullover vest. The warmth factor of the PDF wasn't as important as the thickness of the wetsuit I was wearing.

For aerated water, get all of the flotation you can. The old Extrasport Hi-Float pfd had over 30 pounds of flotation.

I swam a Class V rapid on a guided raft trip once, Tunnel Chute on the American River in California. A life jacket with over 30 pounds of flotation saved me. I went over a big drop into a maytag washing machine. It got really dark and cold. It was totally disorienting. I finally flushed out into a run out. I rapidly ascended to the surface and was launched at least 4 feet into the air.

eckilson said:

It was bulky and uncomfortable to paddle. It is still in my basement in like new condition.

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I was wondering about the bulk and comfort of the Hi-Flotation models. I would definitely be trying it on before buying, even though I might get funny looks from the kayakers while kneeling in the store.

tketcham said:

When I was still solo canoeing Class 3/4 white water I used different PFDs depending on water volume and/or temperature. I don't float very well so when paddling early season with cold water temps or big water (6,000 to 10,000 CFS) I would definitely use my high-floatation vest. It was bulky and not as comfortable to wear but helped keep me on top of the water when I went for a swim. Otherwise, when the water warmed up and the rivers weren't as pushy, I'd use a slimmer, more comfortable pullover vest. The warmth factor of the PDF wasn't as important as the thickness of the wetsuit I was wearing.

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I also plan on different PFDs for different conditions. I have my Stohlquist Ebb for flatwater and slow rivers, my Lotus Design (I forget the model but I've had it quite a while) low-rise pullover whitewater PFD, and I'm considering the higher flotation model for additional "insurance". I am also fairly thin and do not have a "high-floatation" body, but so far the Type 3 has worked well for me. I mostly paddle lower volume Appalachian creeks and rivers but as I age, yet want to keep paddling the same waters, I wondered if overkill might not be a bad idea.

ppine said:

For aerated water, get all of the flotation you can. The old Extrasport Hi-Float pfd had over 30 pounds of flotation.

I swam a Class V rapid on a guided raft trip once, Tunnel Chute on the American River in California. A life jacket with over 30 pounds of flotation saved me. I went over a big drop into a maytag washing machine. It got really dark and cold. It was totally disorienting. I finally flushed out into a run out. I rapidly ascended to the surface and was launched at least 4 feet into the air.

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Sounds like a good place for a lot of buoyancy!

Thanks to all for your feedback, and thanks to Glenn for the Blast form the Past!

I wear a class 5 MTI pfd when on rivers. It's labeled type 5 because it is outfitted as a rescue vest, but that isn't why I bought it. It was simply the best fitting (for me) high flotation vest I found locally. I don't see it listed on the label here, but IIRC, it was tagged as 23 lb flotation.

It is warmer than my other pfds. Because I spend a lot of time standing in the canoe in rough water and sometimes fall out or fall in, the extra padding is also desirable for me. Because I was able to try it on at the store, I knew before buying it that it's added bulk wasn't going to be a problem in any way. There may have been other brands that would have been just as good or better, but weren't available to try.

Another thing about PFDs is that they can lose buoyancy as they age. Paddlers have tested this. So, if you have a really old PFD and haven't been swimming in it lately, it may be worth jumping into Lava Falls with it to see if it is still sufficiently buoyant

Glenn MacGrady said:

Another thing about PFDs is that they can lose buoyancy as they age. Paddlers have tested this. So, if you have a really old PFD and haven't been swimming in it lately, it may be worth jumping into Lava Falls with it to see if it is still sufficiently buoyant

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I wonder how many canoeists GAIN buoyancy as they age?

SouthernKevlar said:

I wonder how many canoeists GAIN buoyancy as they age?

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Eons ago I took a PADI course back when I was 6' tall and a buck fifty after a stout meal. The first thing we had to do was demonstrate that we could swim unaided for 10 minutes. One of the other students was an older guy who had a good deal of extra insulation. He not only passed that test but he was pretty much unsinkable.

More than I’d want to pay full price for but this came out last year and gets some hype in the WW world. I know a few people who use this regularly and really likes it. Super light, very comfortable, type V and 22lbs of buoyancy.


I’m still using my second Sea Wolf (discontinued) and Ceiba both are class III and roughly 17lbs of float

ErktheRed said:

More than I’d want to pay full price for but this came out last year and gets some hype in the WW world. I know a few people who use this regularly and really likes it. Super light, very comfortable, type V and 22lbs of buoyancy.

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The Indus is pricy, but it is on my short list. If it is a good fit I may decide to pay a bit more for the safety factor. Or maybe I'll buy two other PFDs for the same price and wear one over the other, giving me 32 lbs. of buoyancy for the same cost.

Yeah the Indus is a lot of money for a pfd, almost like they’re competing with Kokatat pricing. Personally, I’d have a hard time paying $400 for life jacket even if it is better.

If you’re ok with not touching your toes or sitting down, 3 stacked gives you 51lbs of buoyancy

PFDs have a useful life. Test them out. Replace them once in awhile. Be careful about lending your friend an old lifejacket you have lying around that you got used a long time when you bought a boat somewhere.

Practice rescues. Try out all of your lifejackets in controlled conditions.

ppine said:

PFDs have a useful life. Test them out. Replace them once in awhile. Be careful about lending your friend an old lifejacket you have lying around that you got used a long time when you bought a boat somewhere.

Practice rescues. Try out all of your lifejackets in controlled conditions.

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All good points.

Also add to the list : Check the fit. I lost 30 lbs. about a decade ago and had to throw out one PFD because though it fit before the loss, it would ride up under my armpits and about 4 inches above my shoulders without a belly to belt under it. Changes happen.