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SkilSaw Method for Strip Cutting ... a primer
- Thread starter Cruiser
- Start date
No unfortunately, they have a non standard arbor. That is but one way they have you by the ........
Jim
Jim
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Hey folks,
Hope you are all doing good.
Can we get this thread from under the sawdust and give it a little polish?
I'm comparing the table saw vs the track saw method for cutting strips and it's been an interesting read. Thank you for your contributions.
I am not a Festool owner so far, I don't intend to promote any specific brand or make this a form of advertising.
I'm looking for the safest way to work regardless of the investment/price - keeping my fingers is more important to me.
I was wondering if anyone has been using Festool's TSC 55 K track saw so far?
- TSC 55 K comes with the kickback stop mechanism
- Cordless (which adds to the safety running strongback lengths)
- Can be used without dust collection or with a dust bag or a dust extractor
- The parallel guide which was previously discussed (PA-TS 55) is compatible
- TSC 55K has a thinner Riving knife compared to the older versions and the newer generation Festiool blades (1,8 mm / 0,070 in) are compatible
What do you think of this setup?
The cuts will be slightly thicker compared to the Diablo blades which have been mentioned earlier but it this really a deal-breaker?
Aren't we talking about 0,5mm (0,019 inch) per cut difference?
Are there any negative thoughts about this, apart from being definitely a pricier option?
Thank you.
Steven
Hope you are all doing good.
Can we get this thread from under the sawdust and give it a little polish?
I'm comparing the table saw vs the track saw method for cutting strips and it's been an interesting read. Thank you for your contributions.
I am not a Festool owner so far, I don't intend to promote any specific brand or make this a form of advertising.
I'm looking for the safest way to work regardless of the investment/price - keeping my fingers is more important to me.
I was wondering if anyone has been using Festool's TSC 55 K track saw so far?
- TSC 55 K comes with the kickback stop mechanism
- Cordless (which adds to the safety running strongback lengths)
- Can be used without dust collection or with a dust bag or a dust extractor
- The parallel guide which was previously discussed (PA-TS 55) is compatible
- TSC 55K has a thinner Riving knife compared to the older versions and the newer generation Festiool blades (1,8 mm / 0,070 in) are compatible
What do you think of this setup?
The cuts will be slightly thicker compared to the Diablo blades which have been mentioned earlier but it this really a deal-breaker?
Aren't we talking about 0,5mm (0,019 inch) per cut difference?
Are there any negative thoughts about this, apart from being definitely a pricier option?
Thank you.
Steven
The Festool I have is the 55 it comes with an edge guide so you don’t have to clamp on some angle aluminum. No track is needed as the the edge guide keeps the strips consistent. I bought it many years ago for the superior dust collection (at least it was 16 years ago). Over time I have developed an allergy to red cedar and teak dust, so the dust collection lets me continue to work and enjoy building boats. Yes I do lose a couple strips worth to sawdust but when I buy planks I seem to always cut more than I need anyway.
Use what keeps you safe and healthy.
Jim
Use what keeps you safe and healthy.
Jim
I have the TCS 75 and it's a great saw with tons of handy uses.
But if my goal was to cut strips with a hand saw I'd probably grab a regular circular saw first. Mostly because the 75 is large and heavy and the plunge function, while nice in some situations, I find can be pretty awkward when ripping boards. The plunge works well when you have a track a good deal longer than the board so the saw is "locked in" before the cut begins. But with the track is only a few inches longer than the board the saw is much less stable and beginning the cut is a little trickier.
I would guess that with the side fence it would be similar to a track that's barely longer than the board.
The TCS55 is obviously a smaller saw so maybe it wouldn't be so bad but for the price of a circular saw (very cheap when used) and the proven track record that's what I would go with.
By all means get a track saw if you think you have a use for it and if you do buy one definitely try ripping strips to see how it goes. But if ripping strips was your main reason for getting one I think it would be money ill spent.
Alan
But if my goal was to cut strips with a hand saw I'd probably grab a regular circular saw first. Mostly because the 75 is large and heavy and the plunge function, while nice in some situations, I find can be pretty awkward when ripping boards. The plunge works well when you have a track a good deal longer than the board so the saw is "locked in" before the cut begins. But with the track is only a few inches longer than the board the saw is much less stable and beginning the cut is a little trickier.
I would guess that with the side fence it would be similar to a track that's barely longer than the board.
The TCS55 is obviously a smaller saw so maybe it wouldn't be so bad but for the price of a circular saw (very cheap when used) and the proven track record that's what I would go with.
By all means get a track saw if you think you have a use for it and if you do buy one definitely try ripping strips to see how it goes. But if ripping strips was your main reason for getting one I think it would be money ill spent.
Alan
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Thank you @Boatman53 and @Alan Gage
Canoe building got me into woodworking, and I bought the strips for my first canoe (instagram.com/canoeshots) ready to use.
Since I want to continue building canoes and do some other woodworking I am at the point of investing in some machinery instead of buying expensive pre-milled strips or having to reach out to someone else all the time.
Making strips is something I want to do myself from now on.
Buying a track saw would (at this point in time) be exclusively for cutting strips - I'm sure it would have other uses in the future.
I need to invest in a table saw too and I don't have enough space to buy a "combination-class" type of machine, so I'm looking at smaller / portable versions such as the Makita MLT100N, but thinking about handling 18-ft boards on a small table saw makes me a bit skeptical.
What would you recommend instead of the track saw Alan?
Steven
Canoe building got me into woodworking, and I bought the strips for my first canoe (instagram.com/canoeshots) ready to use.
Since I want to continue building canoes and do some other woodworking I am at the point of investing in some machinery instead of buying expensive pre-milled strips or having to reach out to someone else all the time.
Making strips is something I want to do myself from now on.
Buying a track saw would (at this point in time) be exclusively for cutting strips - I'm sure it would have other uses in the future.
I need to invest in a table saw too and I don't have enough space to buy a "combination-class" type of machine, so I'm looking at smaller / portable versions such as the Makita MLT100N, but thinking about handling 18-ft boards on a small table saw makes me a bit skeptical.
What would you recommend instead of the track saw Alan?
Steven
A used $15 circular saw setup like Cruiser illustrated in the start of this post.
Personally I've always used a table saw. I fit it with a 7 1/4" circular saw blade for the thin kerf and I set up infeed and outfeed supports. I have enough room and it's hooked up to my dust collection and it's always worked fine for me.
Sometimes a board will start to crook as you rip it and stresses change in the board. The circular saw method with it's short fence would be less affected by this. I just make a pass over my jointer to straighten the edge.
It can certainly be done. Infeed and outfeed supports are the important bit. I couldn't run an 18' board across my nice Sawstop without them either.
Alan
If your main use is cutting strips I too would use a regular skilsaw.
Jim
Jim
If you are doing strips for canoe building, then you have the strong back already, that means no infeed/outfeed tables, no double length work area .... if you compare the cost of making your own strips for just 1 canoe, you can likely buy a saw with the difference. I have no idea of the Festool cost, but I know that when I looked at cost, I could pay myself, buy the planer, router and bits and still have money left over.
I have never regretted buying good tools, but just be sure you do your home work and know exactly why you are buying that better tool.
I have done strips with a bigger saw and with the circular saw, it was mentioned that the blade width difference wasn't much ... that needs to be multiplied out for the entire run of strips, it starts to add up, fast.
Even if I had the space, there is no way I would use a table saw (now anyway) to do strips, Using a circular saw method (for me) is faster, more efficient and easier ... by a long ways .... again, this is just IMO
Brian
I have never regretted buying good tools, but just be sure you do your home work and know exactly why you are buying that better tool.
I have done strips with a bigger saw and with the circular saw, it was mentioned that the blade width difference wasn't much ... that needs to be multiplied out for the entire run of strips, it starts to add up, fast.
Even if I had the space, there is no way I would use a table saw (now anyway) to do strips, Using a circular saw method (for me) is faster, more efficient and easier ... by a long ways .... again, this is just IMO
Brian
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I didn't look into the cost of the Festool either but, as Alan mentioned, a circular saw (new or used) is cheap and works very well to cut consistent strips. Used are readily available at about any flea market and the money saved might be able to buy a nice router & table set-up or a used shaper to put the bead & cove on the strips.
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