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Cleaning and De-varnishing white gas burner tanks and lines.

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This came up on the “Old Gear Still Using” thread, and I imagine many (most) of us still have old white-gas Coleman type stuff.

Same can’t quite let it go for the last of the white-gas Coleman two burners. We rusted one to smithereens on salt water trips and the mostly-sound replacement has not been used in years. Still not ready to part with it. I had less problem letting go of the blindingly bright Coleman gas lanterns (OK, we kept a little one-mantle Peak-1)

Correction, I have used that white-gas Coleman, to melt wax for Fire-in-a-cans. And I have fired up the little one-mantle Peak-1 lantern, and the old Svea and Optimus stoves. To clean out any lacquer, and to preserve the memories.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnTwTazfLWE

Yeah, 1973 is about right for some of that stuff.

Those gas stoves and lantern are still handy at home in long power outages. Or Zombie survival scenarios. I emptied them of any residual fuel and de-lacquered the tanks. Lacquer thinner, automotive fuel line cleaner or etc will clean any old gas varnish residue from the fuel tank and lines.

I don’t remember what cleaner & fuel mixture I used, first rinsing the tank and then burned to clean the lines and jets (lacquer thinner flush and a carb cleaner fuel mixture IIRC) but it worked as recommended and all of our old little-used stuff burned like new once cleaned and flushed.

This advice seems reasonable, especially for stoves and lanterns left long in storage (although I put ours away with cleaned and empty fuel tanks and lines)

This is for folks who use liquid gas fueled stoves - most especially Coleman stoves and lanterns.

Empty out your stove and lantern fuel tanks - don't save the fuel unless you filter it and put it in your lawn mower (which may give you lawn mower headaches later).

Pour in 1/4 of a tank or so of "HEET" (brand) or other alcohol based automotive fuel line cleaner. DO NOT use drug store alcohol because it contains water. Swirl the HEET around inside your stove/lantern and let it sit for 20 minutes, then empty the cleaner from your stove/lantern. You may be surprised at the solids bits and pieces that come out of the tank.

Add some more HEET, pump up the tank, and then open the valves so that the alcohol runs through the unit and out the portals in liquid form. Do not light it.

Pour out the remaining alcohol and add a mixture of liquid carburator cleaner and Coleman stove fuel. I use a blend of 20% carburetor cleaner to 80% Coleman Fuel, enough to fill the tank about 1/4 full. BTW, the carburator cleaner does include methyl alcohol.

Run this fuel mix in your stove/lantern, and burn it as you would normally if you were using the unit and run it until there is no fuel.

Then fill your lantern/stove with good, clean fuel and plan for your next camping trip.

It is common for stoves and lanterns to accumulate moisture inside the fuel tanks. When we pump morning air into the tanks or use them when it is very humid or raining, we pump moisture into the fuel tanks. Naturally, the pressure forces this moisture into water droplets that form in your fuel tank, and then drop to the bottom of your fuel tank.

In addition to the operational problems the water causes, it also sits in the bottom of your steel fuel tank causing it to rust. I have seen old stoves and lanterns with the bottoms rusted out FROM THE INSIDE. Now you know how that happens.

After awhile, you notice that your stove/lantern is hard to get going, spitting and getting ornery. If you follow the above advice, you can fix a lot of that problem and add a few decades to the life of your stove/lantern
 
"hard to get going, spitting and getting ornery"

Just in case you were talking about the Colemans, I'll try the cleaning method you've shared.
I rarely use mine anymore, but now there's no excuse not to keep it in tip top shape. Thanks for this.
 
To augment the initial flushing with old tanks that may have interior rust from condensation I have read (but never tried) putting some BBs in the tank and rattling them around before dumping the fuel line cleaner or lacquer thinner.

If someone cleans an old gas stove fuel than I’d be curious about the effectiveness of the BB treatment, maybe rinse with the cleaner/thinner and dump, then try the added BB’s and dump.
 
That does work on small tanks. You can use pretty much anything. I like 1/4 inch nuts, or a smallish piece of chain. The annoying part is shaking it back and forth ( vigorously). I have always wanted to try a paint mixer machine for that.
 
the BB trick does work, BUT you need to remove the generator first or you'll never get them out again! The filler hole has a collar that extends down into the tank to prevent overfilling and will also prevent the BB's from coming out.
Leaking tanks can also be fixed- you need to completely strip the tank- generator, filler cap, and pump check valve, and clean the tank well with solvent. A very large screwdriver or tire iron with a squared up end will usually work for the valve, I wrap the screwdriver shaft with tape until it just fits in the hole to prevent it from tipping or slipping and wrecking the very tight, soft brass. Remove the plastic knob and soak the removed parts (not the knob!) in lacquer thinner or acetone over night
After the tank is stripped, plug all but the filler (a small cork works well in the pump hole- push it in until it covers the internal threads same with the generator valve ) Then mix up some POR 15 or similar liquid gas tank sealer, put about a 1/2 cup in and swirl it around until the entire tank is coated, sit with the openings UP until it sets (5-10 minutes). Pull out the plugs, dump out the excess and quickly run the check valve and generator valve in and out a few times, wiping the threads each time until they're clean of any residue, let dry over night and re-assemble using pipe thread sealer on the generator valve (the check valve goes in DRY).
I've done this on several stoves and lanterns with pinhole and one 3 burner 446 stove with an 1/8" crack about 4" long (I backed the crack up with tape on the OUTSIDE). That 446 is still going strong 15 years later with very heavy use (it belongs to a Scout troop)
 
the BB trick does work, BUT you need to remove the generator first or you'll never get them out again! The filler hole has a collar that extends down into the tank to prevent overfilling and will also prevent the BB's from coming out.

Thanks, I kinda wondered about that with the BB’s. I like the small chain idea, maybe holding one end of the chain outside the filler hole shaking jiggling the tank around
 
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