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Wabash Valley Canoe 18'4"

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I found this old 1981 kevlar canoe. Nice big lite weight canoe but needs some work. The bottom was patched with fiberglass which I removed. There are numerous cracks but no cracks showing on the inside. The bottom is solid when I apply pressure.
I ground off the resin and now the bottom is somewhat uneven from that. The yellow paint is very thick but smooths out with a sander.
Any thoughts on what would be a good way to refinish the the bottom of this canoe without using fiberglass. I have experience with Gluvit and it sands well. I have worked with G-Flex but I'm not sure what kind of finish it would leave on such a large area.
Thanks







 
No clue but a question, Do you mow all of that? If you do no wonder you mainly paddle just the shoulder season.
 
Might be time to try out some of the peel ply methods seen on some builds here. I'm guessing the yellow paint was an after market application to cover the glassed repairs? If it's all smoothed out and still sticking well, maybe leave that seeing as you'll be repainting anyway? Good luck with this Robin. Nice big tripper.
 
If it was me I'd probably lay down a layer of at least 4oz glass on the bottom of the hull to give some support to those cracks. If that's out of the question I'd sand off as much of the paint as ambition allowed and roll on a coat or two of Raka epoxy, let that cure for a couple weeks, scuff sand, and paint.

My preference for Raka has do to with the relatively low viscosity, relatively low cost, and perfectly fine functionality.

In case you didn't know Wabash Valley was Ted Bell's original canoe company.

Alan
 
Edit: Oops, Alan already answered my question about Wabash.
 
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Are you sure it's paint and not gel coat?

The yellow material was over the top of the fiberglass and sure looks like paint, but it's pretty thick.

If it was me I'd probably lay down a layer of at least 4oz glass on the bottom of the hull to give some support to those cracks. If that's out of the question I'd sand off as much of the paint as ambition allowed and roll on a coat or two of Raka epoxy, let that cure for a couple weeks, scuff sand, and paint.
My preference for Raka has do to with the relatively low viscosity, relatively low cost, and perfectly fine functionality.

In case you didn't know Wabash Valley was Ted Bell's original canoe company.

Alan


Thanks Alan, I'm going to give the Raka epoxy a try. I looked at the Raka website but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. Can you give me the product #'s I should order? I like the fact that I can give it multiple coats to build up a smooth finish.
I'm not experienced with large fiberglass work and worry about screwing that up. I struggle with even small applications.

It will be a while till I attempt this. I did read that WCC was linked to Ted Bell. The seller thought this added value to the canoe, maybe, I don't know.
 
Thanks Alan, I'm going to give the Raka epoxy a try. I looked at the Raka website but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. Can you give me the product #'s I should order?

You want their 127 resin, which is the thin stuff.

For hardener on this project I'd choose 350 (non-blushing). This is the slowest setting hardener they have to give you more working time on a larger project. But you'll still need to move quickly.

They also offer slow, medium, and fast hardeners. I like to keep two types of hardener around. I keep the non-blushing and slow on hand in the shop. This lets me mix the two to get whatever setup time I need. It's nice to have fast setting hardener on hand for small projects where you don't want to wait forever for epoxy to setup.

You can either buy it in kits (resin+hardener) or buy them separately. You save a few$ in kit form I believe.

Here's a link to the kit page. Once you click on a link to, for example, the 1.5 quart kit, it will allow you to choose which resin and hardener(s) you want. http://www.raka.com/epoxy_kits.html

You can buy them individually here: http://store.raka.com/individual.aspx
The hardeners you'd be interested in are 350, 606, 608, and 610 (non-blush, slow, medium, fast).

If you want to mix non-blushing and fast hardeners I believe you'll have to order individually. In kit form you can mix slow and fast, which would also work.

These are nice rollers for applying it: http://store.raka.com/highdensityfoamrollercover4.aspx

Here is the frame for them. http://store.raka.com/rollerframeswithplastichandles.aspx
Choose 4" high density roller frame

I'd figure about 16oz. per coat to do the whole boat. but maybe you only need to do the bottom?

Roll on a thin coat as quickly as you can and then go back over it with a brush to tip out the finish; this will get rid of all the little bubbles. Ideally you'd apply it with another person. One person rolls it on and the other follows behind with a brush to even it out. It should be at least 70 degrees when applied.

When fiberglassing a hull it's a slower process as you need to wet out the cloth. In that situation it's good to mix up smaller bathes (10-15 ounces) so that the resin doesn't kick and get away from you. But if you're not doing cloth application will be much faster and I mix up one big batch. This keeps you from having to stop and re-mix part way through.

Are their deep scratches or gouges to fill? Mix a little epoxy very thick (peanut butter thick) and fill them flush before coating the whole boat. Wood dust works fine but fumed silica is easy to work with and is nearly clear in that application if you ever wanted something to blend into the hull (if not paining over). Just a couple ounces will get you through a few small projects. http://store.raka.com/fumedsilica-125qt-2oz.aspx

Good luck!

Alan
 
Thanks Again, I just placed an order for the 127/350 kit, rollers, and silica. I appreciate your detailed information, very helpful.
 
It may go without saying, but one point about the bigger batches of epoxy, it's a good idea to get it poured out on the hull and roller it from there. It takes a very short time to kick in a container due to the heat buildup, pouring it out lets that heat escape and extends the working time.

It's also easier to roll from the poured out epoxy and saves using a tray for the roller.

Brian
 
Thanks Brian, Good tip, I only plan on using the epoxy on the bottom where it's rough, so I'll mix a smaller batch and hope for a few coats.

Maybe sand in between coats so I build up a smooth surface to paint over?
 
When I apply the epoxy and have areas that also need filling, i.e. cracks etc. ... I will put on the coat, then thicken some of the leftover epoxy and fill the cracks with the thickened stuff. Smooth the thickened out, it will stay put and hold shape, filling the void areas much faster.

I would scrape the rougher/high areas with a carbide scraper first, while the epoxy is green, once you get those smoothed, sanding is a good idea.

Brian
 
I'm not sure if I posted the results of the canoe but it turned out really nice. Here are some pics, it ended up on a lake in Connecticut with a young family with 3 young girls.
Thanks for the great advice.





 
Looks great Robin !

I missed this thread somehow, but thought this hull would make a great male mold for a Kevlar copy if you were so inclined. Especially now that you have some experience with epoxy under your belt !

If it's handling characteristics please you of course !

Good advise also ! Not much I could add !

Oh I see you've sold it !
I really struggle SELLING canoes !

Jim
 
Robin,
I love seeing these resurrections!! Too cool that you bring these beaters and forgotten souls back to life so new owners can build their memories with them.
On average, how many hours do you invest in a rebuild?
Your results speak for themselves, but again, kudos to you for such fine work...
 
Robin,

On average, how many hours do you invest in a rebuild?
Your results speak for themselves

Thanks, I appreciate the kind remarks. I'm not sure how much time an average canoe requires. This canoe was a good 2 1/2 hour round trip, I think I paid $125 for the canoe, (I'm not a very good negotiator), then the epoxy and other materials added in. I think I sold it for maybe $650. Not a great profit when you add in the hours.
On average I think I make McDonalds wages (old McDonalds wages), some canoes are really easy and I do well, others like this one require more work and I don't do so well.
It is fun to do this in retirement and anything I make goes to my 72 Chevy truck restoration.:cool:
 
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