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Wollaston Lake to Goose Lake (Nunavut Border) and back

Alan while I only know You from reading & rereading your exploits on the forum , I've often wondered how Sadie reacts when You're in a tight spot due to weather or such as I know how my dog looks at me when I lead him to a swamp or briar thicket. Do You get the "Look what a fix You've gotten us into now, Ollie " stare...( perhaps I'm showing my age with that quote. ). Coincidently , I opened my copy of Rutstrums book "North America Canoe Country" & the map of Wollaston Lake was on the end pages,Thanks for bringing us along on Your adventures albeit vicariously.
 
Glad you made it back to the “outside.”

I'm sure that you had several difficult decisions to make along the way. There's not much forgiveness for bad choices in that country. Well done! Looking forward to reading more about the adventure!
 
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Overnight the wind switched to the West and was pretty stiff but that was better than the North wind from the day before. Under an overcast sky we shoved off and continued our way north to try and get the heck off Wollaston Lake. As we were now mainly heading north in a narrower section of the lake I could do a decent job hiding from the wind but the irregular shoreline and multitude of bays where the wind could get at us kept it from being too relaxing of a paddle. A couple times we had to cross some wide channels and were reminded just how strong the wind was blowing when we had to take it head on. Thankfully in this more confined area of the lake the waves only had a short fetch so couldn’t build that high. If we’d been on the larger portion of the lake we wouldn’t have been able to paddle. Stopped around 1:30 for a snack of almonds and fruit and took a short nap. Even out of the wind it was cold on shore but then the sun would peak out for 10-15 minutes and warm things up before going back into hiding again.

Looking at the map I realized this non-favorable wind would turn into a tail wind when we reached the top of this portion of the lake and took a hard turn to the East. It would make for a long day of tough paddling but I decided I really wanted that tailwind. I knew I wouldn’t reach the turn until evening and was so afraid the wind would die before we got there but at 6:30 we made the turn and felt that lovely wind on our backs as we sailed along amidst big rollers for about 5 miles before turning north down a protected channel that would not only put us at the end of the lake but at the beginning of the Cochrane River and Bigstone Rapids, where I planned to find a campsite.

As we paddled up this channel surrounded by low ground campsites didn’t look very promising; but I wasn’t worried as it seems there’s always a campsite at a large rapids. Since there was so much fishing on this lake there might even be a boat cache on each end. Well, we finally arrived at the head of the rapids and found burned over and regenerating bog on either side of the river. The ground was covered by about 1 1/2 feet of moss. 75% of the trees were laying on the ground and the other 25% weren’t far behind. I’m pretty sure half a dozen fell over every time a moose farted. Not only that but I was having a hard time even finding where the portage landing was. This is not what I was looking forward to after 33miles of paddling and 12 hours on the water. It was 8:45pm.

20160808_094 by Alan, on Flickr

20160808_098 by Alan, on Flickr

Since I hadn’t found the actual portage landing yet I got close to the head of the rapids and walked inland through the brush on river right hoping to cut across the trail. Found two trails and of course followed the wrong one first. Got on the other trail and followed it until I was confident it was the right trail and then took it back upstream where it led me to the correct portage landing a little upstream of where I’d landed. On the rocks along shore was a dry bag that had been shredded by a bear.

20160808_097 by Alan, on Flickr

I picked up my gear pack and set off. It was not a pleasant or easy walk and keeping track of the trail was difficult at times; especially when it seemed to simply end in a maze of tangled blow downs. Sadie turned to the left on a faintly visible trail and when I followed her soon saw a piece of survey tape. This trail went down to the edge of the river in a section of swift but flat water. I’d already been walking a long time and thought perhaps this was the end of the rapids but standing on a small rise I looked downriver and saw the rapid still going at least 3/8 of a mile (.6km) downstream and disappearing around the bend. I groaned, kept walking, and wondered how I was going to get 3 more loads across as darkness was quickly approaching. The last 1/4 of the trail was still a bit wet and sloppy but had gained some higher ground and wasn’t nearly as bad. It ended with a steep descent to Bannock Lake where I found no shoreline to speak of. I hadn’t seen any place along the trail where it would even be possible to camp. It was getting late when I started walking back to the canoe. I set the timer on my watch to see how long it would take me to walk the trail back. It took 33 minutes of hard walking and was now a little after 10:30. It was still light enough to see by but not for long. No way was I going to carry loads across that trail in the dark. I grabbed my 30L food barrel and left my 60L food barrel in the canoe tied up along shore. I’d just have to hope the bear had been satiated by whatever had been in that dry bag and didn’t come back looking for more. Sadie had curled up under a bush and it took me walking off without her to convince her I was serious about going on.

20160808_100 by Alan, on Flickr

20160808_105 by Alan, on Flickr

20160808_099 by Alan, on Flickr

20160808_110 by Alan, on Flickr

I still didn’t know where I was going to sleep. I was less picky now and hoped I’d find something near the other end of the portage trail where I could erect some kind of shelter or at least lie down flat on something other than water logged moss. Despite these concerns it was quite pretty looking over the tail end of the rapid where it expanded into a wide boulder fan in the fading light. The sun had set long ago but the twilight seemed to last forever and although stars were starting to shine there was still a noticeable glow on the horizon. When we reached shore at the bottom of the hill we found the air thick with moths and dozens of nighthawks silently coursing up and down the rapids skimming just over the surface. How they could see them at such speeds in near darkness is beyond me.

20160808_107 by Alan, on Flickr

After hopping over a short stretch of rocks I found a patch of grass along shore big enough for me to lie down but not much more. It wasn’t wide enough to erect my shelter. Not even wide enough to rig it up as some sort of lean-to and nothing to tie off to anyway. It was the best I’d seen so I put down my sleeping pad just after 11:30 and hoped it didn’t rain. Sadie had curled up under a bush and I arranged the two packs to hem her in a bit and block some of the breeze that was coming off the lake. Then I lay down for the night with water 1’ from my toes, 1 1/2’ from my left shoulder and my right shoulder up against the hill side. It didn’t rain and I slept surprisingly well. I woke up once in the middle of the night to a nice display of the northern lights directly overhead.

20160808_090 by Alan, on Flickr

20160808_089 by Alan, on Flickr

The morning brought sunshine and light wind. Put on my wet boots, set the sleeping bag on the bushes to dry in the sun, and went back to see if my food and canoe and survived the night. It was a relief to find them both just where I’d left them and by late morning we were paddling down Bannock Lake and finally feeling the pull of some current beneath the hull.

20160808_112 by Alan, on Flickr

20160808_114 by Alan, on Flickr

Sadie taking a break:
20160808_096 by Alan, on Flickr

I stopped around noon to cook lunch. It was the first food I’d had other than almonds, fruit, and M&Ms since breakfast the previous morning. We were able to run Fitch Rapids without problem but I was slightly concerned that when I pulled ashore to scout I was unable to find any sign of a portage trail. I’m used to finding a portage around nearly every rapids and wondered if this would be a common theme. It could make my trip back upstream a bit difficult.

The skies clouded up in the late afternoon with a couple very light and brief showers but it all cleared up an hour or so before sunset. We found ourselves in a long narrow bay on Charcoal Lake. The wind had completely died and it was absolutely silent in camp as we stood by the river and watched the fish rising in the long twilight. That night I had a tough time sleeping as it was very chilly. Slept in a little to let the sun come up and warm our shelter before getting out of bed. Cooked breakfast and started packing up camp. It was 2 hours after sunrise and as I was taking down the shelter I noticed something along the bottom edge where the condensation had accumulated. I couldn’t believe my eyes and had to pick it up and hold it in my hand to be sure. It was a piece of ice 8” long. This was August 9th and only 1 week into the trip. What the heck did I get myself into?
 
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Fantastic! I wish I could read this to my students tomorrow and show the pics. Can I ask how you were able to remember so much? Did you journal write everyday or record info verbally? I'm sorry but I didn't read to much about your planning. Thanks, can't wait to wake up tomorrow at 2am and start your next chapter.
 
Ha ha, I've been there, running out of time on a portage, ended up sleeping on a beaver trail. Lots of good stuff here Alan, take some more time off work so you can finish writing, I'm sure I'm not the only one eagerly awaiting the next installment.
 
Alan,
I, too, am wondering how you can recall your trip in such detail! Don't get me wrong, I'm really glad you did, I just know I couldn't summon such recall...
Anyway, I am rapt beyond words by your tale. All the stimulation of being there, except for the smells and the soggy feet!

Fantastic read, epic trip. All of this, from your Bloodvein II build, to your preparations, and now the trip report, really would make a great serial for the Associated Press...you really should compile all of this into an epic book.
Can't wait to read the next installments!
 
Can I ask how you were able to remember so much?

I kept a daily journal. I enjoyed sitting down at the end of the day to recollect over everything that had happened in the last 24 hours. It also gave me something to do when stuck in the tent by wind and rain. Sometimes I'm surprised how much I can recall just from memory but referring back to the journal is nice for a reminder, especially some of the smaller details.
 
I kept a daily journal. I enjoyed sitting down at the end of the day to recollect over everything that had happened in the last 24 hours. It also gave me something to do when stuck in the tent by wind and rain. Sometimes I'm surprised how much I can recall just from memory but referring back to the journal is nice for a reminder, especially some of the smaller details.

+1 on keeping a trip journal.

I am in the midst of reading some old journals and trip reports, including some from the 70’s and 80’s. I would have scant recollection of those trips from 30 years ago without some written reference. Gawd my handwriting was awful back then.

If you don’t keep a record the time to start keeping a journal or fashioning a trip report is now. Older, hazy memory you will appreciate it.
 
+1 on keeping a trip journal.

If you don’t keep a record the time to start keeping a journal or fashioning a trip report is now. Older, hazy memory you will appreciate it.

My daughter gave me a waterproof journal years ago and I used it when I went with Bioguide on our ummm measly 7 day trip to Algonquin. So happy she did. He fished and I wrote.

70's and 80's Mike, hmmmm I'd like to read those reports, or better yet, see the movie.

Speaking of movie, I know people document trips and the movie gets shown in Canada at Banff? It then circulates around the country. I would love to see Alan's trip with Sadie on the big screen.
 
If it sounds like the trip hadn’t been a whole lot of fun up to this point that would be accurate. It’s also fair to say I was a little intimidated. A week into the trip and all I’d seen were big wind, big waves, big rapids, big portages, rain. and cold. I felt like the North had grabbed me by the scruff of the neck and said, “look here boy and let me give you a little taste of what I can do.” But after this bit of intimidation, capped off with a hard overnight freeze, the North relented and bestowed upon us two weeks of the nicest weather I’ve ever canoed in. Despite starting with ice, strong winds, and clouds the wind lessened as the day progressed and the sun came out of hiding. We were beginning to enter the land of eskers and it seemed there was almost always one close by to offer a sandy beach for landing and open woodlands for hiking.

20160809_118 by Alan, on Flickr

At lunch that day we stopped at one such place and after cooking up a nice big bannock I took Sadie for a long hike along the esker complex so she could do some running. It was a wonderful area and the jack pines were big and beautiful; not like those spindly little things you find crammed together in the dense forest. These had room to grow and were well spaced with a lot of nice birch and some large white spruce mixed in as well. We’d been seeing bear sign nearly everywhere we stopped; either tracks, scat, or chewed up dry bags. Some of the tracks and scat looked quite fresh to me but so far Sadie hadn’t even given them a second look. I know from previous trips that Sadie does not like bears one bit and I can tell by her reaction when she sees or smells one. This lack of interest in the bear sign made me wonder if she’d gotten over her hatred; which would be a shame since I rely on her as an early warning system in camp and on the trail.

Nice jack pine:
20160809_125 by Alan, on Flickr

Perfect for hiking:
20160809_126 by Alan, on Flickr

Sadie was having a blast and, as usual, was 20 yards ahead criss-crossing this way and that with her nose to the ground. She was just out of site around the corner when I heard a large crash in the brush and a bear went streaking down the hill. After Sadie gave it a little head start, just to be sure she had no chance of accidentally catching up, she was in full pursuit barking her fiercest. I’d heard bears can run fast but this was the first time I’d witnessed it. I couldn’t believe how quickly it could move and once out of site at the bottom of the hill I could still hear its back feet pounding on the ground with every leap. A lot of power in that body. The bear looked like it had no intention of stopping but just to be safe I called Sadie off. Like a good girl she gave up the chase and came back to my side. But my how she was worked up! Hackles up. Tail up. Stalking stiff legged in circles around me while growling. Just when I thought she was starting to calm back down she’d suddenly take off half way down the hill hurling insults far back into the woods. I knew the bear was long gone, and I’m sure Sadie did too, but she was bound and determined to let anything within hearing distance know who was boss. She was on top of the world and didn’t slow down for the entire hour we spent walking. It was nice to know I could still rely on her to let me know if a bear was close by.

When we got to the north end of Charcoal Lake we found another nice beach with good camping behind it. It was only 5:30 but after a some rough days and not knowing what lie ahead in terms of camp sites we decided to stop early. As we unloaded the canoe a raft of over 20 loons swam in our direction and began to call and feed 50 feet out from our beach. This lasted about 10 minutes until they lost interest in us and swam farther into the lake. I set up shelter and then set off to climb the steep esker behind camp to see what I could see. It was a high esker and the hill was steep, as many of them are. As usual we found a well worn path running along the ridge. The esker continued far to the north, intermittently broken here and there in a series of undulating ridges like old drawings of sea serpents. The sun was setting behind us and cast a beautiful light over Charcoal Lake. The strong winds from earlier in the day had died to a light breeze, just enough to ruffle the water. Terns were wheeling and calling over the lake as they dove for fish. The air was noticeably warmer. Two days ago it seemed like the wind and rain would never end. Tonight it was impossible to believe the weather could ever turn ugly again.

Late that night when we crawled into the tent Sadie must have been exhausted and within minutes she was fast asleep. Almost immediately her feet started to twitch. Then her entire legs began to jerk and she was emitting a low growl under her breath. Her actions and vocalizations both increased until she finally barked herself awake. No doubt she was chasing that bear all over again.

Evening on Charcoal Lake:
20160809_140 by Alan, on Flickr

20160809_142 by Alan, on Flickr

5 star campsite with no sign anyone had used it before:
20160809_129 by Alan, on Flickr


Alan
 
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Sadie ! It took awhile for the adrenaline to wear off after the bear chase. Ha !
Camp looked nice . And that tent looked roomy ! A far cry from a hammock !

Jim
 
Sadie chasing off a bear!! What a scene that must have been.
Do you have a track log showing your route? I tried to follow along with your SPOT posts, but switching between the SPOT map and topo maps got me lost!
I'd love to see details of the places you paddled and camped...
BTW, thanks for taking the time to entertain us all.
 
I've read that canines and bears are natural enemies, and that neither becomes complacent towards the other. Sadie sure holds up her end of the bargain; it's in her DNA. She's a good and faithful companion. I've become very attached to my daughter's dog. Although she'll never become a tripper dog, I'm beginning to understand the relationship. It must be rewarding and comforting to have such a tripping partner.
I love that tent, and have been mulling over getting one for shoulder season trips (October-ish). I didn't consider the condensation issue. I wonder if Cooke would add storm vents? When I'm ready to commit I'll check it out.
For a guy who once said he's not into writing trip reports you sure have a talent for it. Thanks Alan.
 
Can't believe I forgot to include one last paragraph to cap off the day. I'll paste it below but also edited the last entry to add it.

"Late that night when we crawled into the tent Sadie must have been exhausted and within minutes she was fast asleep. Almost immediately her feet started to twitch. Then her entire legs began to jerk and she was emitting a low growl under her breath. Her actions and vocalizations both increased until she finally barked herself awake. No doubt she was chasing that bear all over again."

I love that tent, and have been mulling over getting one for shoulder season trips (October-ish). I didn't consider the condensation issue. I wonder if Cooke would add storm vents? When I'm ready to commit I'll check it out.

It really is handy to have at times and looks fantastic. The second "C" is CCS stands for Custom so I'm sure he'd be willing to accommodate. Dan has a large one he took above treeline last year to use as a group shelter during the day to escape from the bugs. That was the first time I'd seen one with rock flaps and he also sewed bug netting along the lower rear edge for better ventilation. That would definitely leak in the rain but it's at the bottom edge so it wouldn't really matter since nothing can fit down there anyway. Just have to be sure the ground cloth was pulled back so it didn't collect the water. I really liked the rock flaps. When there's no soil for stakes it's so handy to just grab a few rocks to hold everything in place.

I really appreciate all the compliments on the writing. I always mean to write a story to expand on my journals when returning from a trip but never get around to it. It's nice to have the incentive of sharing it here.

Alan
 
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