Minicel Yoga Block Beverage Holder, Mark II

[Guest]

I especially like the fact that you turned a yoga thing into a smoking and drinking device.

I need little encouragement. Smoking and Drinking, Mark II, Hole 2.

A two holer solution, just like the outhouse Grandpa Hamilton had at his home on Rouses Point, seems handier than a one holer with a bungee.

Once I get an idea in mind it is hard to put it aside. And it is always easier to do a production run while each saw, sander, drill, glue and brush is out in sequential use.

PC270238 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The simple cylinder removal part is faster and easier than contact cementing countersunk fender washers and running bungee. Screw all that, just gimme a two holer like Grandpa Ham.

I just checked, that coozie sized hole saw will perfectly accommodate a tapered plastic Walmart ashtray, leaving a 2 inch deep stash void below the ashtray. The next run of utility beverage stabilizers will incorporate the recessed ashtray feature

I like production work, making multiple copies of the same thing at the same time. With all of the parts cut, sanded, drilled and urethaned I can lay the initial coats of contact cement on all three component parts, and lay the last and final coats just before heat gunning and clamping.

PC280240 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

BTW, how do you place something down atop curly neoprene with the push pins sticking up? Pull out the push pin and stick a little piece of tape over the corner. The neoprene will stretch a little and flatten out as you pull and put the tape down, and the painters tape can be pulled free of the contact cement once the pieces are seated together.

PC280243 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Contact cemented neoprene is dang near alive with wiggle and curl when hit with a heat gun. It has to be held down.

Oh I like these two holers. Cheap, fast and easy, like several of my old girlfriends. The paired holes can be multifunctional. And multifaceted.

PC280247 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The differently appointed models need names.

The DougD.
PC280248 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The Topher.
PC280250 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The MacGrady.
PC280252 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The Memaquay.
PC280255 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The Beckwith.
PC290270 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

The McCrea.
PC280257 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr



Those two holers were a hit, two have already left for new homes. Letter stamped with the owners name.

Glenn, both those folks wanted a pencil hole drilled. I might as well do that to all of them.

 

[memaquay]

You're a house on fire once you get going! I'm pretty sure you could make a fortune selling to that very exclusive niche market of canoeists who drink and smoke whilst paddling. I know the bottom of most of my canoes stink of spilt beer, and I almost set myself on fire filling up the little suzuki and trying to keep the smoke in my mouth at the same time.

Brilliance! I'm nominating you for the accessorizing award of the year!

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

Indeed, the second hole seems more functional than the bungee. Drinkers and smokers could bolt or epoxy the Yoga Conestoga to a utility thwart in front of them or onto the floor of the canoe. No, maybe on the floor it should be left loose so it can float in bilge water.

I immediately wondered whether it would fit my Jet Boil stove, which I've knocked over on uneven ground and, worse, in my tent. It would fit my fairly slender insulated mug. And slots could be incised by an expert craftsman for my spork and long spoon. Thus, it could hold my entire kitchen.

Could be a good place to keep small medication bottles in the tent.

Now, since one must want and waste not, some purpose should be found for those circular foam pieces. Things like that are actually sold, but I know not what for. To float, stabilize, roll, cushion, raise or insulate something? Feet for chair legs in sand or mud?

 

[dougd]

dang (pronounced with a southern drawl) you've upgraded my favorite beer! I hope I don't have to live up to that new standard!

 

[yellowcanoe]

Now for the mikebits.
Very nice strung in a line for a canoe test or swim area rope off. Singly or doubly they can float a buoy marker stem upright. Again for canoe testing

for the tripper a small slit in the side and a small hole in the middle would slip
over the gunwale protecting it from evil rack
or in the case of vinyl gunwales keep the boat from sliding around.

I sometimes use a belt solo strap that goes around the boat . It

 

[Guest]

I almost set myself on fire filling up the little suzuki and trying to keep the smoke in my mouth at the same time.

The Beckwith model is accessorized using two 1.5 liter fuel bottles, used for refilling the little Suzuki. Those are easier to refill the gas tank while afloat than using one of the 2.5 gallon Gerry cans.

 

[Guest]

Glenn, thanks for the writing implement slot suggestion. Both two holer recipients thus far wanted the pencil hole. I want that simple hole as well. Maybe two holes, one for a pen and one for a pencil.

Something discrete that I forgot. I keep a nail plugged into the minicel on my coozie base. Poked all the way down into the minicel, with the head seated flush.

I do not put nails in trees, but that little marlin spike has come in handy many times for repairs and hot nail hole melting in the field. Also good to poke into the end of a cheap, too tightly rolled cigar. Or puncture the bottom of a can of Ensure and shotgun the whole thing in one chug.

Both recipients also wanted the little plastic ashtray feature, and both are nonsmokers. The slightly tapered ashtray serves as a waterproof plug in one hole, leaving 2 inches of hidden dry space underneath. I did foresee that two tiered dry storage option, and only drilled a drain hole through the base at the bottom of one of the holes.

Ashtrays, not just for smokers anymore.

 

[Guest]

Indeed, the second hole seems more functional than the bungee.
Could be a good place to keep small medication bottles in the tent.

Aye, indeed I am now sorry I wasted two minicel blocks on the Mark 1 versions, the two holer is far more useful. Silly shortsighted me, those two holers are essentially portable versions of the consoles that come in most vehicles. You do not get one cup holder and a bungee in a car, you get two cup holders, and use the second one as a catch all basin.

Joel, and another friend who likewise sleeps in a van while travelling, both plan to use them as bedside water bottle and catch all containers.

I plan to do the same. One issue with my custom carpeted night table in the tripping truck is disorganization on top. A lot of loose stuff ends up scattered and pushed about there, flashlight, reading glasses and case, a water bottle that will fall over if I drive away with it unsecured on that bedside table. I will just leave a two holer console atop that nightstand for easier organization and not have to grope around blindly ISO my flashlight or glasses.

 

[gumpus]

Hey Mike, if you make the blocks wedge-shaped then they can be used for flotation as well as storage like Blackhawk canoes. The Blackhawk design appears well ahead of it's time with a special place for a smart phone even before smart phones were invented.

 

[Guest]

I immediately wondered whether it would fit my Jet Boil stove, which I've knocked over on uneven ground and, worse, in my tent. It would fit my fairly slender insulated mug.

I just checked and a 100g Jetboil fuel canister fits snug and perfect inside one of those coozie holes. Almost perfect, the stove needs to be raised up an inch so that the twist control on the stove is accessible and the flame and heat kept 3 inches above the minicel.

My oh my, if only I knew someone with a stash of scrap precut 3.5 inch minicel cylinders of that could be used for that purpose.

Glenn, when you build one you will need a minicel yoga block, a 5.5 x 8.5 inch piece of wood, a saw, neoprene for a nonskid base, spar urethane, contact cement, a heat gun or hair drier, clamps, a 3.5 inch hole saw and a drill press. All of that is available from Amazon.

Customizing your two holer for a Jetboil kitchen tray will be simple. Just walk out the your shop, take one of the leftover minicel cylinders and drill a finger sized hole through the middle so you can easily retrieve that bottom filler piece from the base when you need both holes for bottles of Ensure.

PC300279 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Use your bandsaw to cut that leftover minicel cylinder down to make a bottom spacer for the stove, so the Jetboil control is at a convenient working height. Knowing that you will only have two minicel scrap cylinders to experiment with I did the testing for you. A one and three quarters inches tall filler piece is perfect.

PC300283 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Since the bottom of the Jetboil fuel canister is convave, take your Dragonskin and shape the top of the minicel plug to match that shape for a custom fitted convex nestle.

PC300284 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Seat that custom stopper plug into the hole

PC300285 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Place your Jetboil stove and insulated mug into holes for utensil test fitting purposes.

PC300286 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Gather your preferred eating and cooking utensils. I do not own a spork, but do use a long handled spoon, and a plastic table knife for spreading peanut butter.

The handles on these utensils are thin and at largest a half inch wide. Calculate your preferred utensil placement atop the minicel, and any desired angle of the dangle. I went with spoon right, butter knife left, 30 degree offset.

I really need to buy a long handled Titanium spoon, maybe one of those fancy a double bent shaft models. I will need help learning how to use it properly lest my oatmeal end up in my mustache.

PC300288 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

I drilled those angled utensil slits, but you could make them using a sharp knife. If you could find such a thing around your home.

You do not need much to accomplish the kitchen customization. A half inch drill, a band saw, Dragonskin, broom and dustpan. You probably have the latter two.

And slots could be incised by an expert craftsman for my spork and long spoon. Thus, it could hold my entire kitchen.

That is true. Lets see, parts and materials, design fees, labor charges plus 10 percent for custom work, taxes, shipping and handling. Would you like the extended warranty with that?

If it suits your needs it might be easier if I just mailed you that one, or make you a true MacGrady Special, with custom features. I like a challenge.

I keep thinking of friends who might like one, and see another easy peezy 5 run batch in my near future.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

Mike, as you are probably realizing, slowly but inexorably, I have a facility for solving theoretical physics problems rarely seen since Einstein, for which I rarely charge a fee. For example, drilling a pencil hole in a yoga block, which no one had ever thought of before. These theoretical skills are perfectly balanced with an inability to implement the concepts with practical skills or tools. However, I do have a hair dryer and I can order all the implements necessary for a Portable Night Table & Kitchen (PNTK), which I surely could use for meal prep in my van (which I do a lot) or tent or outdoors.

If I made one, I see no reason to have a drain hole in the base of either compartment hole. If I ever got liquid inside the compartment, I can just pour it out and wipe it dry, and I'd be wiping it dry even if it had a drain hole. I'm more concerned about water getting inside from underneath on wet ground or hull, or about my diamonds and emeralds falling out the drain hole when I use the compartment for my valuable jewelry storage.

That said, I will now theorize about my four component kitchen and the relevant dimensions.

1. Jet Boil stove. Your stove and canisters are presumably the same size as mine, so you have inadvertently lurched into the relevant facts appertaining thereto.

2. My insulated mug is this one:

It is cylindrical with parallel sides. The outside diameter is 3.5". The distance from the bottom of the mug to the bottom of the grip handle is 2".

3. My titanium spork:

The length of the handle is 4.25". Width of the handle 0.5". Depth of the handle 1/8".


4. My long handled titanium spoon:

Length of handle 6.75". Width 0.52". Depth 1/8".

I include the handle dimensions for my utensils because I envision them not placed upright (I) or at an angle (/, \) on top of the PNTK. Rather, I envision them as sliding horizontally into long slots incised into the long side of the PNTK block, parallel to the ground with only their bowls protruding (----o), probably face up or down. I theorize this will be a much more solid and compact storage option for the utensils, plus it keeps them from getting in the way or bumping into the Jet Boil or mug, as a vertical or angled placement would.

As additional features, I would probably like one vertical hole for a pencil and second hole for my ball point pen/touchscreen stylus, which is 3/8" in diameter:

Finally, the use of the Jet Boil compartment will only be occasional. At other times it should fit 20 oz. bottles of Canada Dry diet ginger ale, diameter ~2.5". For this purpose, if necessary, I am the proud owner of a Menacing Duckheads purple foam coozie, which has been resident in my magic bus cup holder tray for three years, holding my diamonds, emeralds, pizza joint receipts, and lord knows what else. I'd probably need another one dedicated to the PNTK.

I have no idea whether all these requirements and dimensions can be satisfied and implemented. Normally, I would have hired Leonardo Da Vinci or Rube Goldberg to make this custom PNTK for me, but they both seem to be unavailable. I estimate I can finish this project by 2021, and will post a detailed report in this thread.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

I include the handle dimensions for my utensils because I envision them not placed upright (I) or at an angle (/, \) on top of the PNTK. Rather, I envision them as sliding horizontally into long slots incised into the long side of the PNTK block, parallel to the ground with only their bowls protruding (----o), probably face up or down.

I'm rethinking the spork-spoon slot(s) and the bowl orientation.

The two utensils will nestle together, not perfectly but almost. The handles nestle but the bowls are bent at different angles.

However, if I slide the spork down on the spoon, I get a pretty good bowl and very good handle nestle.

So, I'm now thinking I only need only one slot for both implements nestled. That way I wouldn't have two implement bowls projecting from the sides of the PNTK block, but only one nestled combo. I'm also thinking that maybe the the bowl orientation should not face up-down but sideways, which would allow the utensil slot to take up less of the valuable horizontal real estate on the block.

Finally, I'm wondering if even the bowls could be fully inserted into the block, so nothing would protrude. They would be accessed via a bidirectionally chamfered finger pinch groove. This could require the microdragonskinning sculptural skills of Michelangelo, who might need the utensils in hand to properly experiment. He may be available by Ouija board.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

Thinking further . . . as Mike is surely drinking Muscle Milk and eating Oreos before bedtime.

I like the side slot idea; they're sort of like drawers that make more use of the block's mass. Maybe another slot for my slimmest and lightest pocket knife, the Benchmade Bugout, because I always like to keep one near me when sleeping, and maybe even for some rare food prep . . .

IF . . .

. . . the PNTK, when turned over, can serve as a knife cutting board. This would require the elimination of the rubber bottom -- or just leaving some rubber feet at each corner -- and making sure the wood is hard enough for cutting, such as maple, walnut, teak, cherry, acacia, bamboo or hinoki. This is another reason not to have drain holes. (And, besides, if I spill liquid into one of the compartments while it is in my van or tent, I want it contained, not leaking out.) Gee, I might even take up fishing if I had a cutting board.

Finally, I believe the PNTK should have the ability to be hung or lashed in vehicle, on pack or on trees. Rather than drilling a hole through the entire foam/wood at the corner or short side for a carrying cord, maybe an eye bolt in the wood. No, those are ugly. Ah, maybe best yet: How about four small pad eyes screwed on the sides of the board at each corner? That would allow the PNTK to be hung in any orientation with single cords or V cords, or completely lashed down at all four corners.

For a break from this niche topic, here is a video showing Virtuovice fishing for brook trout, using a cutting board by the river, and also using a Silky saw and knife batoning as well as bear spray and bear noisemakers:

 

[Grandpa Paddler]

Glenn,
Thanks for the video link. Seems bushcraft is bushcraft whether east or west. Scenery was spectacular.
Jon

 

[Guest]

I see no reason to have a drain hole in the base of either compartment hole.
my four component kitchen and the relevant dimensions.

1. Jet Boil stove.
2. My insulated mug It is cylindrical with parallel sides. The outside diameter is 3.5". The distance from the bottom of the mug to the bottom of the grip handle is 2".
3. My titanium spork
4. My long handled titanium spoon

As additional features, I would probably like one vertical hole for a pencil and second hole for my ball point pen/touchscreen stylus, which is 3/8" in diameter

Finally, the use of the Jet Boil compartment will only be occasional. At other times it should fit 20 oz. bottles of Canada Dry diet ginger ale, diameter ~2.5". For this purpose, if necessary, I am the proud owner of a Menacing Duckheads purple foam coozie

The PNTK, when turned over, can serve as a knife cutting board. This would require the elimination of the rubber bottom and making sure the wood is hard enough for cutting, such as maple, walnut, teak, cherry, acacia, bamboo or hinoki.

Finally, I believe the PNTK should have the ability to be hung or lashed in vehicle, on pack or on trees. How about four small pad eyes screwed on the sides of the board at each corner?

If I have fully comprehended your facility for solving theoretical physics problems, and enumerated correctly, a MacGrady model would incorporate the following.

Using the Olmec concept of starting at number zero, no drain holes.

Number 1. Fits a JetBoil stove. I have inadvertently lurched into the custom minicel plug a solution for that.

Number 2. Fits your insulated mug. The minicel is 3 inches deep. A second minicel plug will needed to accommodate an accessibly raised mug handle.

Numbers 3 and 4. Titanium utensil slots. Check.

Numbers 5 and 6. Dual slots for writing implement and stylus. Check

Number 7, finally. A Duckhead coozie to accommodate gingery goodness.

Number 8, wait, what happened to finally? Cutting board function on bottom. No neoprene, check.

Number 9, actually finally. Pad eyes on each corner.

There after followed theorizing and design changes upon further design changes. In the Portable Night Table and Kitchen business we call those CHANGE ORDERS. Repeated customer requests for CHANGE ORDERS are the bane of the PNTK industry. To wit.

I envision them not placed upright
Rather, I envision them as sliding horizontally into long slots incised into the long side of the PNTK block, parallel to the ground with only their bowls protruding
probably face up or down
I'm rethinking the spork-spoon slot(s) and the bowl orientation
I'm now thinking I only need only one slot for both implements nestled
maybe the the bowl orientation should not face up-down but sideways
Maybe another slot for my slimmest and lightest pocket knife

I propose the following. I will don my Leonardo de Goldberg shop apron and custom craft a two holer PNTK, with the following features.
Two 3.5 inch diameter holes for cooizes, Jetboil, mug, Ginger Ale or jewelry collection.
Custom minicel plugs for Jetboil stove and mug handle accommodation.
The Base Model base is half inch Oak. One inch thick Walnut, Ash or Cherry are also available upon request. Hinoki is too obtusa.
No drain holes.
Cutting board bottom with no neoprene. I usually apply mineral oil or food grade Walnut oil to cutting boards, if you prefer that optional bottom treatment in lieu of spar urethane please allow extra time.
One pad eye at each corner.

To resolve the continually evolving design uncertainties of numbers 3, 4, 5 and 6, and, and perhaps 7, 8, 9 and 10 to come, and to complete the build before 2021, I propose that all utensil and implement slots be aftermarket installed by the consumer. This solution would not necessitate the purchases of specialty tools from Amazon.

https://tinyurl.com/y9gac8hv

Minicel is easily cut, sliced or hole poked. Pen and stylus holes can be made by poking a pencil several inches into the foam. A large nail would be even better, but that might require a consumer trip to the hardware store.

The utensil slits can be formed with the judicious application of a sharp, slender knife blade. If only you knew someone with a variety of knives

This is a limited time offer. Order with the next three hours and you will receive this special Canoe Tripping bonus, a piece of Dragonskin and scrap of minicel yoga block to practice custom carving.
Offer not available in all fifty States, some restrictions may apply.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

First, let's clear the giant elephant out of the room. WHAT THE BLOODY HECK IS A YOGA BLOCK ANYWAY? We're talking and reading about them as if any of us knows.

What are the dimensions of the yoga block?

Mike's kind offer contains an understandable unwillingness to take minicell excavation risks. Well, I'm in even a riskier situation because I don't want to screw up Mike's handiwork. Maybe I just have to buy yoga blocks and practice.

I see four minicell problems:

1. The pencil/pen holes. Aren't these most easily made by a drill?

2. The spork-spoon slots. I envisioned slots being carved out by something like a long, narrow drill bit, poking saw, file, or some implement I don't have. How does a carpenter make slots in wood?

3. The diameter of the mug hole. If my 3.5" mug fits too snugly in the 3.5" hole, that's not good. There must be some extra room for ease of lift and insertion. How can the hole be made slightly larger than 3.5" in diameter. An adjustable hole cutter drill bit? Dragonskin (seems kind of clumsy and rough)? Sandpaper?

4. Accommodating the mug handle. Raising the cup 2" would do it, but not leave much vertical support. Is there room to cut a handle slot into the foam, preferably in a direction away from the Jet Boil?

Other serious matters, which I've researched. Oak is no good for a cutting board. The pores are too large and open, allowing food particles leading to bacteria to lodge therein. Maple is the standard but walnut or cherry should work. Varnish or other residue-leaving finishes are no good because the knife will flake them off and the particles will get into the food. A thinned varnish or penetrating oil will work. I wouldn't use use any organic oil because they can become rancid. Food grade mineral oil would be okay, as likely would Watco.

However, again seriously, I'm not sure wood is the proper base for this device. Wood will warp, absorb moisture and will require constant attention to the finish. I'd seriously consider ordering an inexpensive polypro cutting board and cutting it to size to use as the base. But then how would hanging/lashing cord be attached?

This all requires more thought.

 

[Guest]

First, let's clear the giant elephant out of the room. WHAT THE BLOODY HECK IS A YOGA BLOCK ANYWAY? We're talking and reading about them as if any of us knows.

What are the dimensions of the yoga block?

A Yoga Block is something that campers use in Jellystone National Park to keep bears out of their picnic baskets.

No, wait, that is a Yogi Block. A Yoga Block is chunk of minicel used for yoga exercises. Sold at Walmart. See dimensions and beveled edge feature below.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Yoga-Dire...Block/17377544

I think the last batch I bought rang up at 2.97 each. I I will be back at that WallyWorld tomorrow to resupply.

Mike's kind offer contains an understandable unwillingness to take minicell excavation risks. Well, I'm in even a riskier situation because I don't want to screw up Mike's handiwork. Maybe I just have to buy yoga blocks and practice.

The biggest risk may be tracking minicel dust onto a nice clean floor.

I see four minicell problems:

1. The pencil/pen holes. Aren't these most easily made by a drill?

2. The spork-spoon slots. I envisioned slots being carved out by something like a long, narrow drill bit, poking saw, file, or some implement I don't have. How does a carpenter make slots in wood?

3. The diameter of the mug hole. If my 3.5" mug fits too snugly in the 3.5" hole, that's not good. There must be some extra room for ease of lift and insertion. How can the hole be made slightly larger than 3.5" in diameter. An adjustable hole cutter drill bit? Dragonskin (seems kind of clumsy and rough)? Sandpaper?

4. Accommodating the mug handle. Raising the cup 2" would do it, but not leave much vertical support. Is there room to cut a handle slot into the foam, preferably in a direction away from the Jet Boil?

I shall try to address those problems, experimentally while in the shop.

Number 1. I just stuffed a pencil into one of those yoga blocks, fully seated 3 inch down. I did not need gloves, supervision or a doctors note. Strong like bull.

Number 2. This is not wood. This is minicel Foam. Exceedingly easy to work. However a file would not do much, and I do not know these minicel poking saws of which you speak.

This is not fine carpentry. You could cut the minicel block into sections and get a dado blade for the table saw you do not have to fashion custom side slots. Then use the contact cement you do not have, and clamps you do not have to glue the slotted sections back together.

Or you could just stick a knife in it.

Number 3. Dragonskin. Shaping minicel with Dragonskin takes only seconds. Like a hot knife through butter. I cleaned up the inside of hole sawn cylinders with Dragonskin. When carving down the Jetboil bases I made 2 different heights, maybe 2 minutes to shape both.

PC300284 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Carving out a custom unsung fit for your mug will take at least 60 seconds. Dragonskin carving mincel is so easy that is advisable to go a little bit at a time, checking the fit as you go. 80 grit or coarser sandpaper will work, just not as quickly. Shame you missed that limited time special offer on Dragonskin.

Number 4. The handle on one of my old coffee mugs was similarly long. I just carved out a notch on the outside of the minicel block to accommodate the handle. Note the custom handle dimple carved in the minicel perimeter on the holder with the SS Canteen.

PC230195 by Mike McCrea, on Flickr

Other serious matters, which I've researched.

There is a surprise!

Oak is no good for a cutting board. The pores are too large and open, allowing food particles leading to bacteria to lodge therein. Maple is the standard but walnut or cherry should work. Varnish or other residue-leaving finishes are no good because the knife will flake them off and the particles will get into the food. A thinned varnish or penetrating oil will work. I wouldn't use use any organic oil because they can become rancid. Food grade mineral oil would be okay, as likely would Watco.

No coating residue flaking finish on the bottom when used as a cutting board , gotcha. About the only thing I cut is cheese and processed meats like pepperoni, and the epoxy and urethane coats on the folding barrel tabletop show no slices or blade wear.

I'm not sure wood is the proper base for this device. Wood will warp, absorb moisture and will require constant attention to the finish. I'd seriously consider ordering an inexpensive polypro cutting board and cutting it to size to use as the base. But then how would hanging/lashing cord be attached?

This all requires more thought.

More thought, eh?. Sometimes the enemy of the good is the perfect. Yes, oiled wood requires occasional attention. See the scuppered inwales on your SRT. Or, sadly, rotted canoe brightwork caused by people storing their unmaintained canoes below the deck outside their homes.

A synthetic cutting board solution. Spar urethane the half inch oak wood base. Even that half inch thick base adds some helpful weighted stability to the bottom of the PNTK. Attach the poly cutting board to the bottom of the wood using Gflex. Sand, alcohol or flame treat the poly cutting board first.

https://www.westsystem.com/specialty-epoxies/gflex-epoxy-adhesion-data/

Attach the pad eyes to the wood base using SS screws.

Knowing Glenns love of specificity, I use Bulls Eye Fasteners six by three quarters stainless steel screws to attach pad eyes to wood.

 

[Grandpa Paddler]

This is a limited time offer. Order with the next three hours and you will receive this special Canoe Tripping bonus, a piece of Dragonskin and scrap of minicel yoga block to practice custom carving.
Offer not available in all fifty States, some restrictions may apply.

As usual, I missed another deadline.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

The perfect could be the enemy of the good but not of the bad. More relevant is the sculptural admonition of Michelangelo that he carved in marble somewhere in the Sistine Chapel: "Think 1475-1564 times, cut once." He is reputed to have uttered this before circumcising his David.

I'm now wondering if I might not prefer the two holes placed on the diagonal, but I won't wonder about that too long.

I've used dragon skin to shape minicell (not minicel) saddles. I didn't use a Stanley Surform Shaver or a NRS roller rasp, as many canoeists do, but rather a tool customized and given to me by Tom Foster, whitewater legend and ACA head training guru. It is just a very elongated C of white ethafoam foam wrapped in dragon skin affixed by duct tape. I still have it somewhere, but it's not for detail work. Uh, oh, Harmony dragon skin is discontinued. On the whole, dragon skin leaves a very rough surface that is tolerable on a whitewater saddle but not on Jane Fonda's yoga block.

Here's Nick Schade making a contoured kayak seat out of minicell using a right angle grinder and various sanding disks, finishing by hand.

I actually bought one of those grinders two years ago when refinishing a warped kitchen floor in the Catskill Mountains, but gave it to a Mexican in return for labor. True story, but a carpenter did most of the work.

Now here's a physics question. If you poke a pencil into minicell, where does the foam displaced by the volume of the pencil go? Answer: nowhere. Because you likely haven't made a perfect or even a good hole, but just a coarse cut. I envision excavating the material out of the pencil hole and then lining the hole with plastic tubing. A corroded air bag inflation tube might do the trick. A real and lasting hole.

I can't make a 0.5" wide utensil slot with any knife I own. That would require a very shallow and long knife, like a hacksaw blade. Might as well just jam the spork into Jane Fonda's block if we're going to be blunt about it. I envision an inserted sheath made from rolled and folded plastic.

I'm struggling to figure out why a poly cutting board would be epoxied to wood. I'm simplifying the project by getting rid of wood. Is the redundant wood board simply a place to provide purchase for six stainless steel Bulls Eye screws. Well, screw pad eyes, I now opine, for I'm liking the poly board idea for every structural and environmental reason I can think of.

As to poly boards, I was leaning to one with a grip handle (keep that in mind), which could be left protruding out of the PNTK after the poly board is otherwise cut to size.

But that poly board is only 0.2" thick, and I'm afraid the cutting board would flex downward where the two holes are (unless I stuffed the holes with foam disks, but that's too much trouble). Dunno, but I'd feel safer with a 0.5" poly board like this one, which comes in a panoply of garish colors just like the Walmart yoga blocks. The PNTK could be PSYCHEDELIC.

I would glue the 0.5" poly board to the Fonda block but leave a 1" edge extending all around. Round the corners. Then drill holes in each corner for cord attachment. OR, instead of a four-sided base extension, if I can get a hold of Michelangelo maybe he could router out an oval hand grip hole, as in the picture above, if just one side of the poly base were extended.

This requires more thought.

 

[latremorej]

The poly board seems to be a good suggestion. Try not to over think it though!

Jason