New Axe Project

[Guest]

I blame Glenn, and Rob:

Now, when you're just killing time, looking at flea markets or thrift shops, keep an eye out for your axe head. It's out there waiting for you! A person could almost make a song about it!

Never struggle against Kismet....

I didn’t have to wander far. In the recesses of the tool shed I found an axe of mystery origins.

Just getting the badly damaged and even more badly installed handle out was a chore; there were a variety of wedge materials hammered in there, including a wood wedge, a 2” cut nail and some circular metal chunk.

With all of that fugly junk removed the axe head, including rust and patina, weighs 2 lbs 3 oz. It is a Dayton blade shape, 6 ¼” long, flat poled with a 4” bit and a small hatchet-like eye. I’m guessing it is of modern manufacture, but I have no idea how or where I acquired it.

I have no use for it at home and don’t carry and axe while paddling, but what the heck, it seems a likely size and weight to use as a tripping axe. The head is still in good shape and still surprisingly un-dinged considering the abuse the handle evidences. It looks like someone missed more than they hit, and I kinda doubt that is the original handle.

I might as well clean it up and start looking for a proper handle.

I expect that will be another custom fit file and shape process. The eye is 2” long x 5/8” wide at the top (3/4” at the bottom) and 2 ½” deep. Time to start searching for a proper handle. Any suggestions for handle length and shape for that odd little axe would be appreciated.

 

[Boatman53]

Just checking but is the eye really wider at the bottom or handle end? Wouldn't the handle naturally want to fly off? Perhaps the handle you just removed was a replacement and put on wrong. Can you show a pic of the head?
Jim

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

Time to start searching for a proper handle. Any suggestions for handle length and shape for that odd little axe would be appreciated.

I don't have any practical experience, but I do know from extensive recent research that the 2.25 lb. head, in a Dayton shape, was and is still found on what it called a boys axe. They typically have 28" curved handles, which actually end up about 26" after the hanging and trimming process. Council Tool is good about pointing it out.

You can just Google "boys axe", and HERE'S an inexpensive Council Tool model for $26 that would probably suffice for my canoe trips, other than the fact that I'm more interested in thoroughly researching axes than actually using them.

In fact, here are pictures of three boys axes, all with 2.25 lb. heads an all in the ambiguous 26-28" range.

$26 Council Tool model boys axe (Baileys)

$19 Graintex model boys axe (Amazon)

$155 asking price Kelly boys axe from the 1940's (Papa Wolf Supply Co.)

 

[Canotrouge]

the last one looks great!!! Maybe a bit pricey....

 

[oldie moldy]

Hi Mike, While you have the head free of wood it might be worth it to have the eye checked for cracks or the start of cracks. Is there anybody near your who could run a magnaflux check? Just an idea, it's a heart breaker to be pounding in the wedges and see some little tiny crack starting.

Canotrouge, I don't know about that last axe, check out the grain in the handle. Since it's a replacement handle, it calls into question the guy's judgment. On the site several axe/hatchets have that same sticker.

For that kind of money I'd get a Gransfors Bruks and swank around with the yuppies.

Best Wishes, Rob

 

[Rippy]

Wow OM, that grain is scary looking isn't it.

 

[Guest]

Just checking but is the eye really wider at the bottom or handle end? Wouldn't the handle naturally want to fly off? Perhaps the handle you just removed was a replacement and put on wrong. Can you show a pic of the head?
Jim

I know little about axe head eyes, but I suspect you are correct about this axe having a replacement handle incorrectly installed. Checking the eye opening with a caliper one end is 9/16” wide and the other almost an 1/8 inch larger.

That bass-akwards installation would explain why the axe head was noticeably raised from its initial seated position on the handle, and why there was all manner of crap “wedges” pounded into the head (as well as having some nasty adhesive smeared around the throat).

I don't have any practical experience, but I do know from extensive recent research that the 2.25 lb. head, in a Dayton shape, was and is still found on what it called a boys axe.

I’d say you nailed it. It is a very plain Dayton shaped axe and the profile matches the “nearly straight, tapering to a convex edge – glances least” depiction in the canoe axe thread. I’m not going to feel like a real manly woodsman carrying around a “Boy’s Axe”. Perhaps I can stamp an “A.S.” into the blade and tell people it was hand forged by Arne Saknussemm from rare Icelandic steel.

Hi Mike, While you have the head free of wood it might be worth it to have the eye checked for cracks or the start of cracks. Is there anybody near your who could run a magnaflux check? Just an idea, it's a heart breaker to be pounding in the wedges and see some little tiny crack starting.

The axe head seems to be in very good condition. Unreasonably good condition considering how eff’ed up the replacement handle was. It shows no chips or dings or wear. Given the state of the handle I’d guess it must be decent steel.

It is as plain an axe head as imaginable. The only distinguishing feature is that all four corners of the poll are slightly beveled down into wee narrow triangles.

I’ll post some photos when I get around to cleaning it up.

This is probably a “Why am I doing this” project. I don’t need this axe, don’t really see myself using it and could buy a modern replacement for little more than the cost of the new handle. Despite that irrationality of repair I’m already thinking I should make a sheath for it.

 

[Alan Gage]

This is probably a “Why am I doing this” project. I don’t need this axe, don’t really see myself using it and could buy a modern replacement for little more than the cost of the new handle. Despite that irrationality of repair I’m already thinking I should make a sheath for it.

Perhaps you know a young boy who would appreciate it when done? Seems like a nice thing to pass along.

Alan

 

[Canotrouge]

OM, I have to agree with you on the handle of that last axe, I was looking more at the head than the handle... The thing is list people don't know how to make an axe handle and they just buy the handle.... From a company that doesn't gives a rats arse about the grain in the handle since they won't use the thing. And that is how most, not all, but most company now a day do business, they have no pride in there work, they are greedy and they don't care about the customer...
That is one reason I try to stay with company like Gränsfors Bruks, Not always guaranteed you will have a great axe, but chances are higher!!
Cheers

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

I’m not going to feel like a real manly woodsman carrying around a “Boy’s Axe”. Perhaps I can stamp an “A.S.” into the blade and tell people it was hand forged by Arne Saknussemm from rare Icelandic steel.

If I may be permitted one last tangent on the famous American boys axe, I will then await the McCrea Axe Works to complete the refurbish job. I may have to go used and refurbish to get the Hudson Bay or Cruiser axe I think I want.

You should feel like a real forest man. It was the U.S. Forest Service that named this style of axe the boys axe, and Council Tool has been providing them to the Forest Service since the 1930's. Americans were the premiere axe makers for 200 years, and the small Swedish forges came over here in the 1950's to learn axe making from the American companies who were downsizing and going out of business because of the chainsaw. Wetterlings currently has only 9 employees and Gransfors Bruks only 30. Their most popular and trendy axes are mostly of sub-boy sizes.

The most expensive boys axe still made in America (Lake Wacamaw, NC) that I can find is the Council Tools Velvicut Bad Axe Boys Axe, which is made from 5160 alloy steel and grade A hickory handles. At $140 with sheath, it is about $100 more than the CT standard grade boys axe I pictured above.

Omaha Knife Company has ordered a special run of the original-spec US Forest Service axe but have upgraded them to the CT Velvicut handle for higher quality. They cost $59 or $69 (without sheaths) depending if you want Omaha to select a special handle. Omaha will also sharpen factory axes before they send them out.

Ace Hardware has a $22 boys axe with the Collins name, but the real Collins has long been out of business.

Tractor Supply wins the low price boys axe battle with a $15 axe from Truper.

The Truper looks very like the Collins, doesn't it. They probably are both made in China or Mexico. Maine's Snow & Peavey axes are now forged in China.

I'm not sure that anyone is left in America except Council Tool and McCreaworks.

 

[Guest]

Perhaps you know a young boy who would appreciate it when done? Seems like a nice thing to pass along.

That’s a thought, although I’m not sure I want to give a kid an axe without having a hand in supervision and training.

It is a stupid shop project; by the time I’m done cleaning it up, properly installing a new handle, sharpening it and making a sheath I’ll have far more time and money invested that it is worth, especially since I could buy a new Boys axe or a Fiskars X-15 for $30.

I really need a derelict canoe to work on. At least I’d use a canoe.

 

[Glenn MacGrady]

I suspect you are correct about this axe having a replacement handle incorrectly installed. Checking the eye opening with a caliper one end is 9/16” wide and the other almost an 1/8 inch larger.

That bass-akwards installation would explain why the axe head was noticeably raised from its initial seated position on the handle, and why there was all manner of crap “wedges” pounded into the head (as well as having some nasty adhesive smeared around the throat).

Oh, I can't let this pass. According to the following post on Bushcraft USA (after the asterisks), the poster found a Truper boys axe new at Tractor Supply with the head installed upside down.

**************************

A few weeks ago, I found this on the rack at the local tractor supply store.

It is a new boys axe by Truper Tools, I think out of Mexico.
For $20 you get one axe with such low quality control that they let people hang axe heads upside down. Really. Not only does one company make and sell such a disgrace, but another company tries to sell it to us. Atleast thy are only asking twenty bucks....

 

[Mihun09]

It is a stupid shop project, by the time I’m done cleaning it up, properly installing a new handle, sharpening it and making a sheath I’ll have far more time invested than it is worth.

This neatly sums up every w/c canoe I work on. I invest much time and effort into each one and can never get what my time might be actually worth. I know a local fellow charges 50-$70 an hour for his labour and if I sell the Canadian for what I'm asking, the time I put into it will be about $10 an hour. Silliness or passion trumps the dollars lost in my case, choose which it might be.

Karin

 

[Canotrouge]

There is a few black smith in the USA that makes axes, never had a chance to hold one in my hands, but they look like good quality tool maybe even better than Gransfors Bruks or Wetterlings... Here's a few. http://www.blackbearforge.com/index.html, http://www.brentbaileyforge.com, http://www.hoffmanblacksmithing.com/liam-hoffman2/ and there is a few guys that refurbish vintage one like http://thraneaxeandsawco.com.
I wish I had that much choices in Canada...

 

[Guest]

I will then await the McCrea Axe Works to complete the refurbish job

The McCrea Axe works runs a really slow working shop, so that may take a while.

The “wedges” and other debris that came out of that upside down handle.



The grunge on the axe head was surprisingly thick, and stubborn. If I had spent the same amount of time behind a counter saying “Would you like fries with that?” as I spent sanding off the crud I could have bought a Bruks.



The file marks from past sharpening are evident, and I somehow doubt the person who installed the handle upside down ever did any sharpening, so I guess I am at least the third owner.

Cleaned up it is a pretty little axe (there’s that word again).



The sole distinguishing feature are the little bevels on all four corners of the poll.



I wish I could recall how and where I acquired this Boys axe, but I didn’t even remember I had it until prowling around the back of the tool shed looking for axes.

 

[oldie moldy]

Nice work Mike! Your little axe is coming along! I don't believe I've ever seen those corners beveled to quite that degree, I'd guess that some previous owner did that, not that it hurts anything. Given that it has had a questionable past I'd really look for cracks.
I can't tell, it may be just the photo, but is there any flaring out near the head, a sort of "mushrooming"? If so, now is the time to remove it.

It would sure be great if you could inspect the handle in some store before purchase. I always have to order them and at best have about a 70% success rate finding a good handle. Maybe it's just the times, not much good wood available.

Have you given any thought to what kind of sheath you're going to make? I was looking at a picture of a "Kydex" sheath a guy made for his axe, I really like the idea of how the plastic sheet was able to be molded to the axe head. Never did that kind of sheath before but it might be fun to try. With your ability to fabricate things and all, you will probably prove a master right out of the box!
Wonder if that plastic is available in yellow? I flat hate black plastic, I'm always loosing things or can't find them.

It sure is fun following along with you, thanks for sharing!

Best Wishes, Rob

 

[Guest]

Rob, the axe looks to be in very good condition, no cracks, flair or mushrooming. I am surprised at that, given the condition of the bass-akwards handle. Even the blade edge is in good condition, with no dings or dents. Again, I’m guessing it must be good quality steel.

I absolutely want to hand select the handle, in part so I can have a good firsthand look at the grain, and also in hopes that I can find something that comes close to fitting that eye. Fortunately I have a well stocked independent hardware store a half hour away, and if I don’t find one there I’ll be in rural North Carolina in a month where there are some real old-timey hardware store still in business. Heck, I might even take it to Council Tools like I did with the Michigan double bit, lake Waccamaw is only 20 miles from where I’ll be working.

And yeah, I’m already thinking about a sheath. Not Kydex. Since I’m going down the antiques road (instead of just buying a Fiskars) I’m thinking it needs a handsome leather sheath. I’ve never made a sheath – I’ve never done any leatherwork - and fear treading down that path….you know, that 1917 Plumb Bolo knife needs a sheath…and that turn of the century Michigan double bit…

No. Must. Control. Stupid. Axe. Urges.

If I could find a leather sheath that fit the head properly I would most likely just buy one unless it was unreasonably pricey. But I recall you (I think) had posted a sheath making thread, which I have searched for but not found. Got a link to that?

If I made sheaths for the double bit, the Bolo and the Boys axe I would have to bring them all on a trip. Hopefully the first time I camp with Glenn and his ugly Mora knife and Fiskars hatchet. I might even let him baton wood with my Bolo. Under supervision of course.

 

[oldie moldy]

Hi Mike, That thread is on page ten of DIY "How one guy makes an axe sheath". If you think of something I might help with, just PM me and I'll answer, that might be better than bothering everybody on the open forum.

Is there a Tandy Leather outlet near you? I need to buy a chunk of leather but I'd really like to inspect it before I lay my money down. You might find it fun to look at all the specialty tools they offer. Most of the time the people running the place are more than willing to help and answer questions. (of course they will try to sell you things as well!)

About the only urge I'd encourage you to control is if you have a long stick and find a hornet's nest. Otherwise, with axes or leather, it's these projects that feed a real human need to make things. Go for it! Once we're pushing up daisies it'll be too late.

Best Wishes, Rob

 

[Guest]

Hi Mike, That thread is on page ten of DIY "How one guy makes an axe sheath".

Oh, yeah, there it is.

http://www.canoetripping.net/forums...sions/diy/513-how-one-guy-makes-an-axe-sheath

Thanks a bunch. dang you.

 

[oldie moldy]

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